Question 1

What is the difference between an O/W and a W/O emulsion?

Accepted Answer

An O/W emulsion has oil dispersed in water – typically a body lotion or a light facial cream; the higher water content makes it feel cooling, but it is also more easily attacked by micro-organisms. A W/O emulsion has water dispersed in oil – thicker ointments, balms and night creams; it leaves an oilier film, but it is more resistant to microbes and to water. Each type needs its own type of emulsifier.

Question 2

At what pH do emulsifiers work?

Accepted Answer

Most emulsifiers work well in the range of pH 4.5 – 6, which is also the most common pH of cosmetics. If you are formulating outside that range, choose an emulsifier with a declared wider window – Olivem 1000 handles pH 3 – 12, Beautyderm K10 pH 2.5 – 7. You will find the suitable pH range in the description of each emulsifier, straight from the manufacturer.

Question 3

How much emulsifier should I put in a cream?

Accepted Answer

Follow the percentage dosage the manufacturer states for the particular emulsifier. Some emulsifiers are a blend of several substances and less of them is enough, while others require a higher concentration; lecithin, for example, is used at low concentrations of up to 5 %. Take the share of oil in the formulation into account as well – some emulsifiers suit 5 – 15 % oil, others 25 – 45 %.

Question 4

Can an emulsion be made without heating?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Most emulsifiers do require a hot process – the water and oil phases are heated, combined and then stirred with a blender as they cool – but there are also emulsifiers for cold processes that do not need melting. You save energy and can work heat-sensitive ingredients in more easily. One example is Neocare P3R (PGPR), which suits both hot and cold processes.

EMULGATORS

Sucragel XL, oil to gel, 100 ml

Sucragel XL, oil to gel, 500 ml

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 100 g

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 5 kg

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 500 g

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate, 1 kg

Vegetable Stearic Acid 1 kg

Vegetable Stearic Acid 250 g

Vegetable Stearic Acid 50 g

Vegetable Stearic Acid 500 g