Question 1

What is the difference between an O/W and a W/O emulsion?

Accepted Answer

An O/W emulsion has oil dispersed in water – typically a body lotion or a light facial cream; the higher water content makes it feel cooling, but it is also more easily attacked by micro-organisms. A W/O emulsion has water dispersed in oil – thicker ointments, balms and night creams; it leaves an oilier film, but it is more resistant to microbes and to water. Each type needs its own type of emulsifier.

Question 2

At what pH do emulsifiers work?

Accepted Answer

Most emulsifiers work well in the range of pH 4.5 – 6, which is also the most common pH of cosmetics. If you are formulating outside that range, choose an emulsifier with a declared wider window – Olivem 1000 handles pH 3 – 12, Beautyderm K10 pH 2.5 – 7. You will find the suitable pH range in the description of each emulsifier, straight from the manufacturer.

Question 3

How much emulsifier should I put in a cream?

Accepted Answer

Follow the percentage dosage the manufacturer states for the particular emulsifier. Some emulsifiers are a blend of several substances and less of them is enough, while others require a higher concentration; lecithin, for example, is used at low concentrations of up to 5 %. Take the share of oil in the formulation into account as well – some emulsifiers suit 5 – 15 % oil, others 25 – 45 %.

Question 4

Can an emulsion be made without heating?

Accepted Answer

Yes. Most emulsifiers do require a hot process – the water and oil phases are heated, combined and then stirred with a blender as they cool – but there are also emulsifiers for cold processes that do not need melting. You save energy and can work heat-sensitive ingredients in more easily. One example is Neocare P3R (PGPR), which suits both hot and cold processes.

EMULGATORS

Glyceryl dibehenate, 100 g

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, GSC, 100 g

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, GSC, 1000 g

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, GSC, 5 kg

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, GSC, 500 g

MONTANOV 68 MB, emulgator, 5 kg

Polyglyceryl-4-oleate, 100 ml

Soy Lecithin, Liquid, GMO-free, 100 g

Sucragel XL, oil to gel, 1 l

Sucragel XL, oil to gel, 100 ml

Sucragel XL, oil to gel, 500 ml

Sunflower Lecithin, Liquid, 50 g

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 1 kg

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 100 g

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 5 kg

TEGO CARE SE 121 MB, Sucrose Stearate 500 g

Vegetable Stearic Acid 1 kg

Vegetable Stearic Acid 250 g

Vegetable Stearic Acid 500 g