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You shower, cleanse your skin, moisturize. And yet the skin appears tired, it feels rough to the touch and the cream seems to just float on it instead of being absorbed. Where is the mistake?
Often not in what you give the skin, but in what does not leave it. Dead skin cells accumulate on the surface, which the body naturally sheds, but it does not always keep up. The layer of dead cells can then make the skin more matte and rougher and also affect how cosmetics spread and are absorbed on it.
This is exactly where exfoliation comes in. In this article, we will break down both of its paths, mechanical and chemical, explain how each of them works, and most importantly, what to watch out for so that you help your skin and do not harm it.
Contents
The skin renews itself constantly. New cells are formed in the deeper layers of the skin, gradually travel to the surface and the outermost ones eventually naturally detach and peel off. This process is called natural desquamation [4] and under normal circumstances healthy skin does not need help with it.
With increasing age, in dry skin or due to the influence of the external environment, however, natural desquamation may not function so smoothly. Dead cells can then remain longer on the surface and you know the result: the skin appears rougher, more matte and its texture is less even.
Exfoliation is the targeted removal of dead cells from the surface of the skin. Essentially, we are supporting a process that occurs naturally in the skin.
In cosmetics, two fundamentally different paths are used:
Neither of them is “the better one”. Each has its logic, its strengths and its risks. Let us break them down.
Mechanical peel is the oldest and most intuitive form of exfoliation. Abrasive particles are added to a base, which may be an oil, gel, butter or soap mass. When massaging the skin, these particles release dead cells from its surface by friction. The result is immediate: after rinsing, the skin is smoother to the touch.
In home-made and artisanal cosmetics, various natural abrasives are used, from very fine powders to coarser grains intended for the body. For the face, ground rosehip powder in BIO quality is suitable, a fine exfoliant from crushed rosehip seeds that can handle even more sensitive skin. Ground pumice powder is suitable, for example, for peeling soaps and body products, with the intensity of the peel determined mainly by the particle size. Salt peels have also proven themselves on the body, whether from coarse sea salt, Dead Sea salt or finely ground Himalayan salt, where you choose the grain coarseness according to the intensity the skin can tolerate. A simple rule applies: the finer and more sensitive the area, the finer and smaller the particles.
And what should you watch out for? The greatest risk of mechanical peeling is sharp, irregular particles and too much pressure during massage. Too coarse or sharp particles in combination with strong pressure can irritate the skin and unnecessarily disrupt its protective barrier. Therefore, ground, rounded or fine-grained materials are chosen for peels on more sensitive areas and massaged with light circular movements without pressing. A peel is not sandpaper, the particles should do the work, not the strength of your hand.
Chemical exfoliation can do without friction and, with the right concentration and pH, can be very gentle. However, this does not mean that it is automatically gentler than mechanical peeling — with acids it depends not only on which one you use, but also how much of it is in the product and at what pH it works. Active substances help loosen the “glue” that holds dead cells together, and they then detach more easily from the surface.
The best-known group are AHA acids (alpha hydroxy acids), which are water-soluble and act on the surface of the skin. Glycolic acid is one of the smallest AHA acids and at the same time one of the more intensive ones, therefore it is all the more necessary to control the concentration and the final pH of the product. A gentler alternative is lactic acid, whose salt, lactate, is a natural component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor. Lactic acid is therefore often used where we want to combine exfoliation with a gentler approach to dry or sensitive skin.
A ready-made complex of several AHA acids can significantly simplify formulation: instead of individual acids, you add a single raw material to the formula in the dosage recommended by the manufacturer. Even here, however, it is necessary to check and correctly set the pH of the finished product in the end.
The second group are BHA acids (beta hydroxy acids), whose typical representative is salicylic acid. Unlike AHA, salicylic acid is fat-soluble and is therefore well suited for oilier skin and skin prone to pore clogging.
In addition to AHA and BHA, there is also enzymatic exfoliation, in which proteolytic enzymes, for example papain from papaya or bromelain from pineapple, help release dead cells. They break down protein structures that are involved in the cohesion of cells in the outermost layer of the skin and thus support their desquamation. [3]
Another group are PHA — polyhydroxy acids. Chemically they are related to AHA and, similarly to them, they support the natural desquamation of dead cells from the surface of the skin [1]. However, they have larger molecules and therefore penetrate the skin more slowly and usually act more mildly. Among PHA, gluconolactone is used in cosmetics in particular, whose hydroxyl groups bind water, so in addition to exfoliation it also contributes to skin hydration. In an aqueous environment it gradually converts to gluconic acid, therefore the pH of the formulation may also change after its addition.
If you are hesitating between the mechanical and chemical path, start from your own skin, not from what is currently in vogue.
Mechanical and chemical exfoliation can also be combined, but in moderation. If you are new to exfoliation, it is better not to alternate them too often or layer several intensive peels at once. Redness, burning, tightness or flaking are signals that the skin needs a break.
If you make peels yourself, it pays to understand several principles that determine the result.
In mechanical peeling, the size and shape of the particles is particularly crucial. Fine abrasives belong on more sensitive areas, coarser grain rather on the body, feet or elbows. The method of incorporation then depends on the specific abrasive and on the base into which you add it.
Salt and sugar peels in a purely oil base do not contain water, which simplifies their preservation. However, pay attention to the way they are used: if you regularly reach into the jar with wet fingers or water from the shower gets into it, the conditions change. Therefore, even with an anhydrous product, you need to think about how it will actually be used.
In chemical peeling, not only the amount of acid but also the pH of the finished formulation is decisive. The more acidic the environment, the larger the fraction of acid remains in the form in which it can exfoliate — but at the same time the risk of irritation also increases. Therefore, the mere statement “5% AHA” does not yet indicate how intensive the product will be. [2] Two formulations with the same amount of acid but different pH can behave very differently on the skin.
When setting the concentration and pH, it is also necessary to take into account how long the product remains on the skin and whether it is rinsed off. Therefore, always follow the recommended dosage and pH of the specific raw material, not a general recipe for all acids.
With salicylic acid, it is also necessary to keep in mind that its use and maximum concentrations in cosmetics are regulated by European legislation depending on the type of product.
And one rule above all others: test every new peel, especially an acid one, on a small area of skin first. When using AHA acids regularly, do not forget about sun protection. AHA can increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation during use. [5]
The ritual does not end with exfoliation. After removing part of the surface cells, the skin does not need another dose of intensive active substances, but rather hydration and gentle care that supports its natural protective barrier.
For soothing masks and baths after peeling, for example, oat silk, colloidal oatmeal known for its softening effect on the skin, is suitable. This can be followed by a hydrating serum, cream or a light vegetable oil, depending on what suits your skin.
Exfoliation only makes sense when the skin tolerates it well. If it is red, irritated, sunburned, injured or peeling significantly, do not add a peel. First give it time to recover.
Caution is also in place if you are already using other intensive active substances or dermatological treatment. More exfoliation does not mean faster results — you can very easily get to a point where, instead of smoother skin, you get burning, redness and a disrupted skin barrier.
Theory is best verified in the workshop. For the body, peeling cubes or a foaming shower peel are suitable, where washing is combined with gentle mechanical exfoliation. If you want to start simply, you can manage a sugar peel with activated charcoal in a few minutes, and a gel body peel shows nicely how particles behave in a gel base.
Exfoliation is not a mandatory step in every routine nor a competition for the smoothest possible skin. It is a way to support its natural desquamation when it needs it. Whether you reach for a mechanical peel, AHA, BHA or gentler PHA acids, the same rule applies: start gently and observe how the skin reacts.
The goal is not to remove as much as possible from the surface. The stratum corneum is part of the skin's natural protective barrier and healthy skin needs it. You can recognize a good peel not only by the smoother feeling after use, but also by the fact that the skin remains calm, without burning, redness and unpleasant tightness.
