Question 1

How do I choose the right active ingredient?

Accepted Answer

Choose by the goal of the formulation – hydration (hyaluronic acid, panthenol), exfoliation (AHA/BHA acids), anti-age (bakuchiol, peptides, coenzyme Q10), sebum regulation (Zinc PCA, azeloglycine) or soothing (allantoin, bisabolol). Every product page states the recommended dosage and pH range, so you can work the ingredient safely into your formulation.

Question 2

What is the recommended dosage of active ingredients?

Accepted Answer

Follow the page of the specific product: niacinamide is commonly dosed at 2–5%, bakuchiol at 0.5–2% and azeloglycine at 3–10%; Alpha Arbutin up to 2% in facial creams and up to 0.5% in body preparations (the limit set out in Annex III to Regulation 1223/2009 as amended by 2024/996). High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid needs only 0.1–0.5%. Start at the lower end of the range – at higher concentrations very sensitive skin may react with mild irritation.

Question 3

At which stage of production are active ingredients added?

Accepted Answer

Water-soluble actives (niacinamide, panthenol, allantoin) go into the water phase or the cooling phase below 40 °C. Oil-soluble actives such as bakuchiol, coenzyme Q10 or vitamin E belong in the fat phase or are stirred in after emulsification; in a hot process, add bakuchiol during cooling below 70 °C. Add heat-sensitive components at the very end so they keep their full potency.

Question 4

Can several active ingredients be combined?

Accepted Answer

Yes, provided they are compatible in pH and solubility. Combine acids with humectants such as hyaluronic acid or panthenol, vitamins with antioxidants and peptides with ceramides for a broader effect. Sensitive actives such as coenzyme Q10 or panthenol should also be stored cool, in closed containers and away from direct light and heat.

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS