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Are you also a lover of decorative cosmetics, but your favourite shade of lipstick is not always available or do you want to make one to your liking? Here's how to make a lipstick that provides intense colour and strong coverage thanks to the combination of colour pigments with titanium dioxide to enhance the colour and last long after application.
The production of lipstick consists of two corks. First you need to make a colourless lipstick base, which is composed of oils, fats and waxes. This base is then mixed with pigments in the appropriate proportions and allowed to melt again. Also thanks to this, you can prepare a lipstick base to stock up on or make several shades at once.
After preparing your base, it's time to add pigments to it. We recommend adding 0.3g of titanium dioxide for every 25g of finished base and up to 2.5g of your chosen pigments. This can be a single shade, for example red titanium dioxide for a rich crimson colour or combine different mica powders together. Do not increase the amount of pigment, as the resulting lipstick would be difficult to apply and too drying.The pigment amounts shown are calculated per 25 g of colourless base.
Take inspiration from our lipstick tips and tricks, which will also help you to make it easierand prepare the finished product exactly to your liking.When preparing the lipstick base, make sure that the temperature of the mixture does not exceed 70 °C. Above this temperature, the oils are too thermally stressed and may oxidise more quickly. To delay oxidation, add 0,5 % tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) in the cooling phase, ideally at the lowest possible temperature, but the mixture must still be sufficiently fluid to allow the vitamin E to be incorporated into the product. Do not use tocopherol, which is less resistant to higher temperatures. As the product does not contain water, there is no need to add a preservative. The base ingredients may take longer to combine due to the sunflower lecithin, which requires slightly more time to fully dissolve. Similarly with titanium dioxide after the addition of pigments. It will take quite a long time for all the titanium dioxide to be incorporated into the mixture and you will not see white residue of this pigment when you run a spatula across the bottom of the container. Do not pour the lipstick into the container before all the titanium dioxide is mixed in - you might then notice white spots when applying the lipstick due to the unmixed titanium dioxide. When pouring, it's a good idea to use a rubber band to hold the containers together or put them in a smaller jar - this way the containers won't tip over when pouring the lipstick.Pour the lipstick into the tube completely full, as a small depression may form in the centre of the lipstick as it sets. This depression can be filled later by pouring more lipstick. You will use approximately 5-6 g of finished lipstick per tube. Ideally you should have a little more lipstick ready than you need, you can pour the excess into a glass jar and store it for a few weeks and use it again when making a new batch.To get the bevelled shape of the final lipstick stick, you can reach for the lipstick moulds. An alternative is to simply trim the end of the stick, but you may find that the lipstick breaks when trimming.
Below we will introduce you to the different raw materials used to make lipstick. Whether oils, waxes or pigments - you will learn more about their properties, variations and dosage changes.
Castor oil is a very popular oil for the production of decorative cosmetics because it gives the products softness and a great texture that makes them easier to apply on the skin. At the same time, it has a relatively high viscosity, so it also thickens the products. This oil can be substituted with other vegetable oils, but due to its unique properties in terms of viscosity and feel on the skin, the resulting product may have a different texture.If your lipstick seems too stiff and you want a slightly creamier product, increase the castor oil content by 0.5-1% at the expense of the waxes, and vice versa if you want a stiffer lipstick that won't melt even at higher temperatures (for example, during the summer).
Cetearyl alcohol is what gives the final lipstick its strength. This alcohol has the character of a wax and comes in the form of white pellets. As a result, it ensures that the lipstick is firm and can be used in a stick packaging for lip balm. If cetearyl alcohol were omitted, the lipstick would likely break during application to the lips.Cetearyl alcohol can be replaced with a similar alcohol, namely cetyl alcohol. Wax substitution is also possible, but this may result in a change in the strength of the resulting lipstick. Therefore, when substituting cetearyl alcohol for wax (beeswax or otherwise), check that the wax has a similar hardness and melting point to cetearyl alcohol.
Neutral oil or MCT caprylis is the name for an oily raw material with the INCI designation caprylic/capric triglyceride. This compound is a great substitute for oils due to the fact that it is colorless with a lower viscosity. In addition, it resists oxidation well, so your lipstick will last longer thanks to MCT caprylis. At the same time, MCT caprylis has no scent or color to interfere with the final look and feel of the product.You can replace it with fractionated coconut oil, for example, or even jojoba oil. Other oils are also suitable, but choose those that are lighter so as not to distort the final colour of the product.
Beeswax, like cetearyl alcohol, adds hardness and strength to the final product. A white, refined version of this wax has been chosen because this wax will not affect the final colour of the product or its smell. However, you can also use natural beeswax. For example, almond wax can be a vegan alternative.
Another wax that adds strength and improves the texture of the final product is carnauba wax. This wax is a great addition to decorative cosmetics as it also acts as an emulsifier. Although lipsticks do not contain water, where the emulsifying function would come in handy, an emulsifier can also facilitate the application of the final product. A substitute for carnauba wax may be candelilla wax. Other cosmetic waxes can also be used, but here the texture of the product will be significantly altered.
This is a white, fine powder that leaves a silky feeling on the skin. It is derived from mica, so the microparticles from it decompose light, casting a soft glow, which in effect brightens the skin and covers imperfections.It is added to lip products to improve the consistency and texture, and also to make the product easier to apply. In addition, the white color of the mica powder lets the added pigments stand out.
To achieve easy application of the product and to give the lipstick a creaminess, sunflower lecithin was chosen. This ingredient is particularly suited to lip products as it moisturises and leaves lips soft. Increasing the proportion of lecithin will make the lipstick softer and creamier. Conversely, a smaller amount will make the product harder. Soy lecithin is a good substitute for sunflower lecithin.
Titanium dioxide is usedto accentuate the pigments used in the product. Without this ingredient, the final lipstick shade will be much softer when applied and you will end up with a product more akin to a coloured lip balm than a lipstick. If possible, choose the titanium dioxide version for dissolving in oil rather than water. It takes quite a long time for this ingredient to dissolve, so be sure to mix the product sufficiently so that there is no residue of unmixed titanium dioxide in the resulting lipstick.
Mica powders and red iron oxide have been chosen as the main pigments. It is the iron oxide that gives the deep red colour without glare. Therefore, if you are looking for an intensely staining red lipstick, this is the pigment for you.For pink, orange or other shades, mica powders are great and can be combined with each other in different ways. If you're looking for a lipstick with a deep plum to burgundy colour, use either mica powder or combine red iron oxide with blue ultramarine.
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve the desired characteristics. However, many factors such as humidity, temperature, quality of ingredients and storage can affect the final result. Before using any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions or safe handling. Any raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using a product, we recommend that you find out if you suffer from an allergy to any of the raw materials or the overall product, e.g. by a skin test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
Are you a lover of decorative cosmetics and use lipsticks during every day? Make a lipstick to your liking and with a natural formula.Follow this great tutorial with the procedure created for us by the great Ivana Jačalová. Thank you.
For questions, to expand the tutorial with tricks and ideas, or to share your experience, email us at marketing@handymade.skUntil we see you again for the next blog tutorial, stay creative.
Till the saponification, my friends.
