Hydrating serum with exosomes combines natural moisturizing factors, hyaluronic acid, oat lipids and a modern active ingredient in the form of plant exosomes from goji. The formula was prepared for us by our influencer and formulator Juan Dominguez (JuanDominguez.Lab), who is known for his well-thought-out formulations and modern approach to cosmetics.
In this formula he combined several moisturizing and regenerating components into a light emulgel serum that helps support the skin barrier, improve skin hydration and provide comfort even to sensitive skin.
The result is a gentle milky serum with a silky slip that is quickly absorbed and leaves the skin hydrated, supple and soft without unpleasant stickiness. The formula combines natural moisturizing factors (NMF), hyaluronic acid, oat lipids, bisabolol and exosomes from goji.
A great advantage of the formula is the use of the emulsifier Fluidifeel Easy, which enables formulation via low-temperature emulsification. Unlike classic emulsions, it is not necessary to heat both phases to 70–75 °C, which significantly simplifies production and helps maintain the stability of more sensitive active ingredients.
About this formula
The serum is designed as a light emulgel serum with multi-level hydration. It works on several fronts at once — on the surface and in the deeper layers of the stratum corneum.
Natural moisturizing factors such as urea, inulin and panthenol provide basic hydration, hyaluronic acid binds water in the skin, oat lipids and AvenaPlex support the barrier and exosomes from goji bring a modern active component.
Why low-temperature emulsification: The emulsifier Fluidifeel Easy bridges the oil and water phase even in a cold process. You do not have to heat both phases to 70–75 °C, which simplifies manufacturing and means that more sensitive active ingredients such as exosomes are not unnecessarily exposed to heat.
Main benefits
- Intensive multi-level hydration
The combination of NMF components, hyaluronic acid and polymers works on the surface and in the deeper layers of the stratum corneum.
- Support and protection of the skin barrier
Oat lipids and AvenaPlex replenish barrier components and help the skin retain moisture.
- Soothing of sensitive skin
Bisabolol, allantoin and panthenol provide a soothing character even for irritated skin.
- Light non-greasy texture
Silky slip and fast absorption without stickiness thanks to light emollients.
- Modern care with exosomes
Exosomes from goji represent a modern active ingredient in the spirit of advanced cosmetics.
- Simplified manufacturing
Low-temperature emulsification eliminates the need to heat the phases to 70–75 °C and protects sensitive active ingredients.
Product properties
Key ingredients in the formula
At the heart of the formula are several modern active and functional ingredients. You will find all of them in the range of active ingredients at Handymade.sk.
PhytoCellTec Goji Exosomes
Exosomes from goji are a modern active ingredient of advanced cosmetics. In the formula they are added to the cooling phase in a gentle aqueous dispersion to preserve their character. They give the serum a communication story as well as a technological point of interest.
Typical use: hydrating and regenerating serums, essences, modern leave-on formulations.
FLUIDIFEEL EASY, cold process O/W emulsifier
Fluidifeel Easy is an emulsifier for low-temperature emulsification. It enables bridging the oil and water phase without heating to 70–75 °C, which protects sensitive active ingredients and simplifies the entire manufacturing process. The result is light emulsions and emulgels with a pleasant slip.
Typical use: light serums, emulgels, fluid creams, milks.
AvenaPlex, oat hydrating complex
AvenaPlex is an oat active complex focused on skin comfort. Oats have long been known in cosmetics for sensitive and irritated skin. In this serum it supports the skin barrier and complements the hydrating and soothing components.
Typical use: soothing serums, barrier care, creams for sensitive skin.
Oat Lipid e, premium oat oil
Oat Lipid e is a premium oat oil rich in barrier lipids. In the oil phase of the serum it provides a gentle emollient component and complements the oat line together with AvenaPlex — suitable especially for dry and sensitive skin.
Typical use: oil phases of serums and creams, barrier care, balms.
Formula (100 g)
The formula is divided into seven phases (A–G) and a final pH adjustment. At the first occurrence each ingredient is linked to the product in our range.
Shop the ingredients for this recipe
Untick what you already have
1,3-Propanediol, 100 mluses 6 gin stock€6.39
Vitamin B3/PP, Nicotinamid/Niacinamide, 10 guses 3 gin stock€1.99
D-Panthenol 75% W, 100 mluses 2.5 gin stock€7.34
Pullulan DuoLux CM, 10 guses 0.35 gin stock€2.99- FLUIDIFEEL EASY, cold process emulgator O/W, 100 mluses 4 gin stock€9.35
| Phase / component | Amount |
|---|---|
| Phase A – Main aqueous phase | |
| Demineralized water | 57.05 g |
| 1,3-Propanediol | 4.00 g |
| Niacinamide | 3.00 g |
| Inulin | 1.00 g |
| Allantoin | 0.20 g |
| Urea (Urea USP) | 2.50 g |
| D-Panthenol 75 % | 2.50 g |
| Phase B – Hydration of hyaluronic acid | |
| Vegetable glycerin | 3.00 g |
| Demineralized water | 5.00 g |
| 1,3-Propanediol | 2.00 g |
| Hyaluronic acid (high-molecular-weight) | 0.10 g |
| Phase C – Structure-forming polymers | |
| Xanthan Gum Fast Dispersing | 0.25 g |
| Pullulan DuoLux CM | 0.35 g |
| Phase D – Oil phase | |
| Hemisqualane | 4.00 g |
| Isoamyl Laurate | 3.00 g |
| Oat Lipid e | 2.00 g |
| AvenaPlex | 1.00 g |
| Bisabolol Alpha Natural | 0.20 g |
| Phase E – Emulsifier | |
| Fluidifeel Easy | 4.00 g |
| Phase F – Exosome phase | |
| Demineralized water | 3.00 g |
| PhytoCellTec Goji Exosomes | 1.00 g |
| Phase G – Preservation and chelating agent | |
| Euxyl PE 9010 | 0.80 g |
| Sodium Phytate | 0.05 g |
| pH adjustment | |
| Diluted lactic acid | as needed |
| Diluted arginine solution | as needed |
Manufacturing procedure
- Preparation of the workplace
Before starting work, thoroughly disinfect the work surface, beakers, stirrers, spatulas, thermometer, pH meter and final containers.
Prepare:
- 200 ml beaker for the main aqueous phase
- 100 ml beaker for the oil phase
- small beaker for hyaluronic acid
- small beaker for exosomes
- Main aqueous phase
Weigh into the main beaker:
- 57.05 g of demineralized water
- 4.00 g of 1,3-Propanediol
Stir. Add:
- 3.00 g of niacinamide
Stir until completely dissolved. Then add:
- 1.00 g of inulin
Stir again. Add:
- 0.20 g of allantoin
Gently heat the phase to approximately 40–50 °C so that the allantoin dissolves better.
Grind the urea in a mortar into a fine powder and add:
- 2.50 g of urea
Stir until dissolved. After cooling below approximately 40 °C, add:
- 2.50 g of D-Panthenol 75 %
Stir to a homogeneous mixture.
Phase A40–50 °C - Hydration of hyaluronic acid
Weigh into a separate beaker:
- 3.00 g of glycerin
- 5.00 g of demineralized water
- 2.00 g of 1,3-Propanediol
Stir. While stirring continuously, slowly sprinkle in:
- 0.10 g of high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid
Let it hydrate during the preparation of the other phases.
Phase B - Addition of polymers
When the aqueous phase has cooled below 40 °C, slowly add:
- 0.25 g of xanthan gum
Mix thoroughly. Then add:
- 0.35 g of Pullulan DuoLux CM
Stir until fully incorporated.
Phase Cbelow 40 °C - Incorporation of hyaluronic acid
Add the hydrated mixture from Phase B to the main aqueous phase. Stir to a homogeneous consistency.
Let the mixture rest for approximately 45–60 minutes so that these components fully hydrate and form a gentle gel structure:
- hyaluronic acid
- xanthan gum
- pullulan
- Oil phase
Weigh into a separate beaker:
- 4.00 g of Hemisqualane
- 3.00 g of Isoamyl Laurate
- 2.00 g of Oat Lipid e
- 1.00 g of AvenaPlex
- 0.20 g of Bisabolol Alpha Natural
Stir. If necessary, gently heat to 35–40 °C so that all components combine perfectly.
Phase D35–40 °C - Addition of emulsifier
Into the fully hydrated aqueous phase add:
- 4.00 g of Fluidifeel Easy
Mix for approximately 2–3 minutes.
Phase E2–3 min - Emulsification
Under medium-intensity stirring, slowly pour the oil phase into the aqueous phase. After complete combination:
- homogenize for 3–5 minutes
- then reduce the speed
- mix for another 3–5 minutes
A light milky emulsion with the consistency of an emulgel will form.
3–5 min - Preparation and addition of exosomes
When the emulsion has cooled below 35 °C, prepare:
- 3.00 g of demineralized water
- 1.00 g of PhytoCellTec Goji Exosomes
Stir gently to a smooth dispersion. Add to the emulsion and stir carefully. Avoid aggressive homogenization.
Phase Fbelow 35 °C - Preservation
Add:
- 0.80 g of Euxyl PE 9010
Stir.
Phase G - Addition of Sodium Phytate
Take a small amount of the finished serum into a separate container. Disperse in it:
- 0.05 g of Sodium Phytate
After complete dispersion, return the mixture back to the main batch and stir.
- Control and adjustment of pH
Check the pH using a calibrated pH meter. Target range:
pH 5.3 – 5.7
If the pH is higher:
- adjust with diluted lactic acid
If the pH is lower:
- adjust with diluted arginine solution
Make the adjustments dropwise and stir thoroughly after each addition.
pH 5.3–5.7
Tip: Add exosomes and hyaluronic acid in the cooling or final phase and avoid aggressive homogenization. In this way, sensitive active ingredients will retain their character and the serum will maintain a gentle gel structure.
Use
Apply 1–2 doses of serum to cleansed skin of the face, neck and décolleté. Gently massage in and then apply cream as needed.
The serum is suitable for everyday use in the morning and evening.
Frequently asked questions about the formula
Practical questions about the formulation — exosomes, low-temperature emulsification, choice of hyaluronic acid, pH and shelf life of the finished serum.
What are exosomes and why are they in this serum?
Exosomes are a modern active ingredient of advanced cosmetics. In this formula, PhytoCellTec Goji Exosomes are used, which are added to the cooling phase in a gentle aqueous dispersion. They give the serum technological and communication value and fit into the trend of regenerative care.
Why does this formula not need to be heated to 70–75 °C?
Thanks to the emulsifier Fluidifeel Easy, which enables low-temperature (cold process) emulsification. The oil and aqueous phase will combine even in a cold process, so it is not necessary to heat both phases to a high temperature. The manufacturing is simpler and sensitive active ingredients are not unnecessarily exposed to heat.
Which hyaluronic acid should I use?
The formula is based on high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid (HMW), which forms a hydrating film on the skin and contributes to the gel structure of the serum. Sprinkle it in while stirring continuously and let it fully hydrate — ideally together with xanthan gum and pullulan for 45–60 minutes.
Why is Sodium Phytate added only at the end and separately?
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent that is added in a small amount to the finished serum. First, disperse it in a small removed part of the serum and only after complete dispersion return it to the main batch. This prevents clumping and ensures even distribution.
To what pH should I adjust the serum?
The target range is pH 5.3 – 5.7, which corresponds to the physiological pH of the skin. If the pH is higher, adjust with diluted lactic acid; if it is lower, with diluted arginine solution. Make the adjustments dropwise and after each addition stir thoroughly and measure with a calibrated pH meter.
For which skin type is the serum suitable and how often should it be used?
The serum is suitable for everyday care in the morning and evening, including sensitive and irritated skin — thanks to bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol and oat components it has a soothing character. Apply 1–2 doses to cleansed skin of the face, neck and décolleté, massage in gently and apply cream as needed.
How should I store the finished serum?
Fill into an opaque airless or pump bottle, which protects the contents from light and contamination. The serum contains the preservation system Euxyl PE 9010 — however, for home manufacturing store it in a cool and dark place and monitor colour, odour and viscosity changes. For a larger batch we recommend verifying stability and microbiological safety.
Exosomes, oat lipids, hyaluronic acid and a low-temperature emulsifier — you will find all the ingredients from this formula in the range of active ingredients at Handymade.sk.
