Question 1

How do I combine surfactants to balance mildness and cleansing power?

Accepted Answer

Use an anionic surfactant as the base (e.g. SLES or a modern anionic), add an amphoteric (Cocamidopropyl Betaine) to reduce harshness, and 1–2 non-ionic APGs to improve foam and compatibility. A re-fatting ingredient such as Lamesoft PO 65 and working at pH 5–5.5 reduce harshness further. Adjust dosages to your goal and the salt curve.

Question 2

How do I control viscosity and the “salt curve” in shampoos?

Accepted Answer

Build viscosity by adding NaCl gradually while mixing, or by adding an amphoteric surfactant or a thickener. Watch for the peak — overdosing the salt brings viscosity back down again. Every surfactant system has its own curve, so test in small steps and record the measured values with your recipe.

Question 3

When should I choose “next-gen” anionics over SLES?

Accepted Answer

When you want lower irritation while keeping good foam and cleansing, or for products aimed at sensitive skin and children. With the right formulation, Sarcosinate, Cocoyl Glutamate, Taurate and Sulfolaurate offer a gentler profile for both skin and scalp than classic sulphate systems.

Question 4

How do I make a syndet bar with SCI and SLSA?

Accepted Answer

Combine powdered surfactants (SCI, SLSA, DLSS) with fatty alcohols or waxes and emollients to form a compact bar. Control the processing temperature, disperse the powders evenly and fine-tune hardness and foam through the ratios of anionics to emollients. The result is a solid format with a rich lather and no water in the pack. When handling powdered surfactants, avoid raising dust and wear a respirator — the fine dust irritates the airways (see the SDS for details).

SURFACTANTS