Winter face cream is the answer to keeping your face from suffering in freezing cold weather. For periods of cold and frost, richer creams with a higher proportion of oils are the right choice, as they protect the skin against the negative effects of the weather. Try making one according to our guide, with mango butter for long-lasting hydration of the skin.
About this recipe
The guide to the winter face cream was prepared for you by Ivana Jačalová. It is a richer cream with a higher proportion of oils intended for the winter months, when the skin is intensively exposed to frost or wind; the nourishing and protective component is mango butter.
Similar to other emulsions, face creams also consist of aqueous and oily raw materials. To unite these two otherwise immiscible components, an emulsifier is used, so preparing such a product requires heating in a water bath.
Key benefits
- Protection in frosty weather
A richer cream with a higher proportion of oils protects the skin against the negative effects of winter weather.
- Nourishment from mango butter
Mango butter is rich in antioxidants and vitamins A and E, helps to regenerate the skin and improves its elasticity.
- Soothing for irritated skin
Witch hazel hydrosol in combination with allantoin helps to reduce redness and relieves irritation of the skin caused by cold or sharp wind.
- Hydration without a greasy feel
Glycerin, sodium lactate and hyaluronic acid reduce water loss from the skin; hyaluronic acid additionally reduces the greasy feeling on the skin.
- An adaptable formula
You can adjust the proportion of hydrosol, water and emulsifier to suit the viscosity of cream you like.
Product characteristics
Key raw materials in the recipe
Below we will introduce the individual raw materials used in the production of the winter face cream. You will also learn more about possible substitutions or changes in the dosage of the individual raw materials.
Witch hazel hydrosol
Witch hazel is a great medicinal plant whose extracts in the hydrosol help to soothe irritated and reddened skin. You will appreciate this especially in the winter months, when the skin is intensively exposed to frost or wind. You can increase the proportion of hydrosol in the formula at the expense of demineralised water, or you can choose another hydrosol according to your preferences. In any case, however, expect a change in the pH of the final product, and thus also a different amount of lactic acid needed to adjust it.
Hyaluronic acid HMW
High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid is a great addition to winter cosmetics thanks to its hydrating and softening properties. Instead of serums on a purely water base, try adding it to the aqueous phase of your creams during winter, so you can enjoy the benefits of this raw material in combination with vegetable oils and butters. Hyaluronic acid helps to partially thicken the product and to reduce the greasy feeling on the skin. You can omit it and replace it with water, but the viscosity of the product will change.
Glycerin
The main moisturising agent in the winter face cream is glycerin. It is a clear, viscous liquid that dissolves well in water and helps to hydrate the skin and retain moisture in it. In addition, glycerin serves to accelerate the dissolution of hyaluronic acid in aqueous solutions — thanks to it, hyaluronic acid needs a shorter time to become fully hydrated and to form a homogeneous gel. Allantoin behaves similarly. That is another reason not to leave glycerin out of the formula. However, if this raw material does not suit you, you can replace it with water.
Mango butter
Mango butter in this recipe serves as an exceptionally nourishing and protective component. It is rich in antioxidants and vitamins A and E, which help to regenerate the skin and improve its elasticity. Thanks to its light texture, it does not leave a greasy feeling, while creating a gentle barrier against the unfavourable effects of winter weather. Ideal for dry and sensitive skin, which it hydrates and softens.
Beautyderm K10
Since the cream combines aqueous and oily raw materials, an emulsifier is needed to unite these two phases. In the case of the winter face cream, Beautyderm K10 was chosen — a commonly used emulsifier for making face creams, body milks and other emulsions. Definitely do not omit it from the product, otherwise the aqueous and oil phases will not unite. By changing its proportion, however, you can influence the viscosity of the product: if you like more fluid creams, reduce its content by 0.5 – 1 %, conversely, for a thicker cream you can increase the content by about 1 %. If you do not know which variant you would like best, prepare small test batches of the cream with different proportions of emulsifier. In the winter face cream, this emulsifier can be replaced, for example, by Olivem 1000.
Other raw materials
Demineralised water is the base for making most cosmetics. In this recipe it is supplemented with a hydrosol, which you can use to replace part or all of the demineralised water. Do not use ordinary tap water — it contains minerals that can disrupt the stability of the product and of the entire emulsion.
Allantoin is a great soothing agent for your skin. In combination with witch hazel hydrosol it helps to reduce redness and relieves irritation of the skin caused by cold or sharp wind. The disadvantage is that its larger amounts are difficult to dissolve in water and heating is necessary; even then it can happen that, once the solution has cooled, the allantoin precipitates again and forms sediment on the bottom. Here, less is more — this substance is effective even in small amounts.
Sodium lactate 60 % is another substance with properties similar to glycerin. It is the sodium salt of lactic acid in the form of a colourless solution that dissolves well in water, and it is a great supplement to other moisturising raw materials. It will help you reduce water loss from the skin and keep it supple and hydrated even during the winter months. It is an active, which can be omitted from the formula and replaced with glycerin or water. Do not unnecessarily increase its content above the level recommended by the manufacturer — it could cause irritation of the skin.
Lactic acid was chosen for the final adjustment of the pH of the product. Its advantage over citric acid is that it is sold already as a solution. However, a 30 or 50 % solution of citric acid can be used to adjust the pH as well — bear in mind that you will need a completely different amount than with lactic acid. Omit the addition of lactic acid only if the pH of the product lies between 4.5 and 5.5 even without adjustment. Otherwise, add it dropwise and check the pH continuously (for example with litmus strips or a pH meter) until you reach the desired range.
Cosgard is a great preservative for natural cosmetics. It is a broad-spectrum preservative that is, however, active only in an acidic pH, ideally below 5.5 — which is another reason why the pH has to be adjusted with lactic acid. In this case the preservative must be added: the cream contains water, which without treatment would already after a few days be an excellent growth medium for bacteria, yeasts or moulds. You can replace Cosgard with another broad-spectrum preservative, but make sure that the preservative will be effective at the final pH of the product.
The formula (100 g)
The content of the raw materials is given in percentages by weight, so it corresponds to a batch of 100 g of finished cream. The formula is divided into the aqueous phase A, the oil phase B and phase C with the preservative, which is added only after cooling and pH adjustment.
Shop the ingredients for this recipe
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| Phase / raw material | Content | Function |
|---|---|---|
| Phase A | ||
| Demineralised water | 62.80 % | aqueous component |
| Witch hazel hydrosol | 20.00 % | aqueous component |
| Glycerin | 5.00 % | active, humectant |
| Hyaluronic acid HMW | 0.20 % | active, hydration |
| Allantoin | 0.20 % | active, soothing of the skin |
| Sodium lactate 60 % | 1.00 % | active, humectant |
| Phase B | ||
| Beautyderm K10 | 5.50 % | emulsifier |
| Mango butter | 5.00 % | oil component |
| Lactic acid | as needed | pH adjustment of the final product |
| Phase C | ||
| Cosgard | — | preservative |
| Equipment | ||
| Glass jar for storage | — | packaging material |
| Ethanol | — | disinfection |
Procedure
- Disinfection
All the tools, containers and packaging that you will use when making the cream should be disinfected — for example with ethanol from a spray bottle.
- A paste from the powdered raw materials Phase A
Into a heat-resistant container, weigh the glycerin, allantoin and hyaluronic acid, mix well and leave to stand until a thick paste forms.
- The rest of phase A Phase A
To the prepared glycerin mixture, add the remaining raw materials of phase A (demineralised water, sodium lactate and hydrosol), mix well and place the container, covered with aluminium foil, into a water bath.
- Heating phase B Phase B
Into a second heat-resistant container, weigh the raw materials of phase B. Cover it with aluminium foil again and, as with phase A, start heating the mixture in the water bath.
- Combining the phases Phase A + Baround 70 °C
Heat until phase B has completely melted and both mixtures have reached approximately the same temperature (around 70 °C). At this moment, still in the water bath, pour the aqueous phase A into the oil phase B and immediately start mixing with an immersion stick blender.
- Mixing and cooling at least 5 minutes
Mix for a few minutes and then, while continuing to mix, remove the mixture from the water bath. Do not stop mixing for at least 5 minutes, so that both phases are thoroughly united. The mixture will gradually start to thicken as the temperature drops, so during cooling remember to mix it with the blender every few minutes.
- pH adjustment pH 4.5 – 5.5
After cooling, check the pH of the cream and, if necessary, lower it with lactic acid to a value of 4.5 – 5.5. The stated amount of lactic acid is only indicative — always check the pH of each product and add lactic acid dropwise, see tips and tricks.
- Preservative and filling Phase C
After adjusting the pH, add the preservative and mix the mixture thoroughly. Then fill the previously disinfected containers with the cream.
Tips and tricks when making the cream
Preparing emulsions can sometimes be demanding, so we have prepared tips and tricks for you that will make making the winter face cream easier.
It is a good idea to mix the powdered raw materials, that is, hyaluronic acid and allantoin, with glycerin, to facilitate their solubility and hydration. Otherwise it will take longer to obtain a nice clear gel of hyaluronic acid, and in the finished cream there may still be lumps of non-hydrated hyaluronic acid several hours after preparation, which will, however, gradually disappear.
Do not forget to cover the containers with phases A and B with aluminium foil before heating them in the water bath, to prevent water from evaporating or from entering the containers. If you want to work with extra accuracy, weigh the container with phase A before heating and note the mass; after heating, weigh the container again and top up the evaporated water. Do not forget to place a small plate or other support under the hot container — hot objects negatively affect the accuracy and functionality of the scales.
When combining phases A and B, make sure that both mixtures have approximately the same temperature. Otherwise, the emulsifier may solidify and cause the emulsion to fail to form, leaving lumps in the mixture. For good unification of the two phases, also use a stick blender. Reach for milk frothers only if they have good power — in some cases they do not ensure proper unification of the two phases.
If you want to use the preservative Cosgard in the product, it is necessary to lower the pH by adding lactic acid. Always add lactic acid dropwise, stir thoroughly and check the pH — only then continue with another addition, until you reach a pH in the range 4.5 to 5.5. Keep in mind that the stated amount of lactic acid is only indicative and the pH of the product will depend on the accuracy of weighing, the quality of the raw materials or on substitutions of raw materials and changes in dosage.
Warning
You can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve the properties you want. However, the final result can be influenced by many factors — humidity, temperature, the quality of the raw materials or their storage.
Before you use any raw material for the production of a cosmetic product, familiarise yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling. Every raw material may have the potential to trigger an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using the product we recommend checking, for example by a patch test, whether you are allergic to any of the raw materials or to the overall product.
If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or if you have other skin and health problems, we recommend consulting a medical professional before applying a new product to the skin — whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
Frequently asked questions about the recipe
Practical questions about the winter face cream — pH adjustment, working with powdered raw materials, combining the phases and preservation.
What pH should the finished cream have and how do you adjust it?
The target range is 4.5 – 5.5. The pH is lowered with lactic acid, which you should add dropwise, stir in thoroughly and then check the pH (for example with litmus strips or a pH meter). The stated amount is only indicative — it depends on the accuracy of weighing, the quality of the raw materials and on substitutions or changes in dosage.
Why mix the powdered raw materials with glycerin?
Hyaluronic acid and allantoin dissolve more easily and hydrate faster in glycerin. Without this step it takes longer to obtain a clear gel, and in the finished cream there may still be lumps of non-hydrated hyaluronic acid several hours after preparation, which will, however, gradually disappear.
Why do the containers in the water bath need to be covered with aluminium foil?
To prevent water from evaporating or, conversely, from entering the containers. For extra accuracy, weigh the container with phase A before heating, weigh it again after heating and top up the evaporated water. Always place a small plate or other support under the hot container — hot objects impair the accuracy and functionality of the scales.
Do both phases have to be at the same temperature?
Yes. When they are combined, phases A and B must be at approximately the same temperature (around 70 °C), otherwise the emulsifier may solidify, the emulsion will not come together and lumps will remain in the mixture. Use a stick blender to unite the two phases properly; a milk frother will do only if it has good power.
What can Beautyderm K10 be replaced with?
With Olivem 1000, for example. Do not omit the emulsifier from the recipe — without it the aqueous and oil phases will not unite. By changing its proportion, however, you will influence the viscosity: for a more fluid cream reduce the content by 0.5 – 1 %, for a thicker one increase it by about 1 %.
Does the cream have to contain a preservative?
Yes, a preservative must be added — the cream contains water, which without treatment would already after a few days be a growth medium for bacteria, yeasts or moulds. Cosgard is active only in an acidic pH, ideally below 5.5; you can replace it with another broad-spectrum preservative that is effective at the final pH of the product.
Conclusion
Does your skin need more nourishment and care during the winter? Try the winter face cream that you make according to our guide. We thank Ivana Jačalová for the excellent information and the article with the instructions.
Do you have interesting tips and tricks that we could add to this guide? Write to us at [email protected] and share new experiences with us.
Mango butter, the Beautyderm K10 emulsifier, hydrosols and the actives from this recipe are all available in the Handymade range of raw materials.
