Pullulan, food grade, 50 g

Pullulan is a film-forming agent that, once applied, creates a thin, transparent, non-tacky film on the skin with an immediate tightening and smoothing sensation. It is a natural polysaccharide obtained by fermentation of starch using the yeast-like fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. Its rapid tightening effect is precisely why it is added to serums, face masks, and anti-first-wrinkle products, where it complements longer-acting actives with something visible right away.

The raw material is of food-grade quality and is used in the food industry as an edible coating and film. It is straightforward to work with in formulations: it is processed cold, tolerates a wide pH range, and does not significantly alter the texture or scent of the product.

Key benefits

• Immediate tightening effect – once dry, a flexible film forms that gently tightens the skin and optically smooths fine lines. The effect is physical and temporary, lasting until the product is washed off, making it a suitable complement to ingredients with longer-term action.
• Transparent, non-tacky film – unlike some synthetic film-forming agents, it leaves no white residue or sticky feeling and rinses off easily with water.
• Protection against skin dehydration – the film limits water evaporation from the skin surface, thereby supporting hydration and a smoother appearance.
• Improved skin feel of emulsions and gels – at lower concentrations it enhances spreadability and imparts a silky feel on application without increasing greasiness.
• Carrier for additional actives – the film helps keep dissolved active ingredients in contact with the skin, which is particularly useful in serums and face masks.

Use in formulation

Pullulan dissolves in water and cold, no heating is required. The powder is added to the water phase slowly with constant stirring, ideally by gradually sprinkling it onto the surface to prevent clumping. For larger amounts, pre-mixing with glycerin or another water-miscible polyol helps to disperse the powder before it contacts the water. Any lumps that form will dissolve after a few minutes of standing and further stirring.

Compared with common thickeners, aqueous pullulan solutions have low viscosity, so the ingredient will not significantly thicken the product. For consistency adjustment it is therefore combined with a gelling agent such as xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, or carbomer. An aqueous solution has a naturally slightly acidic to neutral pH 5–7 and the ingredient remains stable across the pH range typical for cosmetics.

Pullulan is non-ionic and therefore does not react with anionic or cationic components. In emulsions, it is added to the water phase before emulsification or after cooling as a solution, in either case without affecting emulsion stability. It is not suitable for anhydrous products, as it does not dissolve in oils or ethanol.

Suitable for products such as

• Serums and ampoules with an immediate effect – water-based or gel serums where skin tightening is visible right after application.
• Face masks – rinse-off gel masks and sheet masks, where the film helps keep active ingredients on the skin.
• Eye and décolleté creams and fluids – where gentle smoothing and a non-greasy feel are desirable.
• Lightweight emulsions and gel creams – as an ingredient that improves spreadability and leaves a silky finish.
• Hair gels and styling products – as a mildly fixing film-forming agent without tackiness.

Good to know

In aqueous systems, pullulan as a polysaccharide serves as a nutrient source for microorganisms; solutions as well as finished products therefore always require a preservative. If you prepare a stock solution, use it as soon as possible and preserve it in the same way as the final product.

Once dry, the film is transparent and does not alter the colour of the product. When combined with powders, pigments, or a high oil content in an emulsion, the tightening effect is diminished because the film cannot form a continuous layer on the skin. It is most pronounced in simple aqueous and gel formulas with a low oil content.

The ingredient is suitable for spray products because the solutions remain fluid and do not clog the nozzle. Given its food-grade quality, it is also appropriate for lip care products.

Pullulan compared with other film-forming agents

Pullulan and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) are both found in peel-off masks. PVA forms a firm, cohesive film that peels off in one piece; pullulan gives a softer, more flexible film intended for rinsing off. In peel-off masks they are therefore used together: PVA as the base, pullulan to soften the feel.

Compared with plant-based thickeners such as xanthan gum, it differs in that it does not thicken appreciably. Xanthan handles consistency; pullulan handles film and skin feel. Both ingredients combine well.

Compared with synthetic polymers such as acrylate copolymers, pullulan is a naturally derived ingredient produced by fermentation, biodegradable and requiring no neutralisation.

Frequently asked questions