Hemisqualane, 100 ml

Hemisqualane is a plant-derived emollient used to lighten creams, serums, facial oils and hair care products. It spreads quickly and effortlessly on the skin, leaves no greasy film, and once absorbed the surface stays dry to the touch. In natural cosmetics it replaces isohexadecane, cyclomethicone and light mineral oils wherever a formulation needs a “silicone” feel without silicone.

It is produced by fermenting sugar from sugar cane, followed by hydrogenation and distillation. The result is a fully saturated hydrocarbon with fifteen carbon atoms, chemically unreactive and free of double bonds, so it does not oxidise. It is supplied in cosmetic grade with ECOCERT Approved certification.

Key benefits

• Very high spreadability – a small amount covers a large area, creams and serums apply evenly and absorb quickly.
• Dry, non-sticky feel – no greasy or waxy film remains after application. You will appreciate this in day creams and products for oily skin.
• Replacement for silicones and petroleum hydrocarbons – the manufacturer reports a sensory profile comparable to dimethicone and cyclomethicone, with a fully plant-based origin of the raw material.
• Stability – it withstands heat, cold, UV radiation and contact with oxygen, and is inert across the entire pH range.
• Make-up removal – it dissolves waterproof and long-lasting make-up, more effectively than isohexadecane according to the manufacturer's tests.
• Hair care – it smooths the hair and makes combing easier. According to the manufacturer's studies it reduces frizz by 29 % and improves colour retention by 30 %.
• Non-comedogenic and non-irritating – according to the manufacturer's data, suitable also for sensitive skin.

Use in formulation

Hemisqualane belongs to the oil phase. It dissolves in oils, esters, silicones and alcohol, and does not mix with water. It is added cold or during heating of the oil phase; the recommended processing temperature is up to 80 °C. It requires no special handling during emulsification; the required HLB is 6.

Dosage ranges from 1 to 100 % depending on what the ingredient is meant to do in the formulation. In creams and lotions it is enough to replace part of the oil phase with it to reduce stickiness and the greasy feel. In serums and facial oils it serves as the main carrier, diluting heavier plant oils and speeding up absorption. In cleansing oils and balms it forms the base that dissolves waterproof mascara and long-lasting make-up. In leave-in hair products and sprays it works even at a low proportion.

Its low viscosity and non-polar nature also predestine it for anhydrous systems: dry body oils, oil serums, hair oils, stick deodorants and antiperspirants, where it lightens the waxy base. In colour cosmetics (lipsticks, liquid foundations, tinted creams) it ensures smooth and even application of pigments.

Suitable for products such as

• Light day creams and fluids – they absorb quickly and leave no shine.
• Oil-based facial and body serums – a carrier for lipophilic active ingredients and vitamins.
• Cleansing oils, balms and two-phase make-up removers – they dissolve waterproof make-up.
• Sunscreens – a less greasy feel of organic filters and even spreading.
• Leave-in conditioners, hair serums and sprays – they smooth the hair and protect it during heat styling without weighing it down.
• Lipsticks, lip balms, liquid foundations – slip during application and better pigment distribution.
• Deodorants and antiperspirants – sticks and roll-ons, where it replaces cyclomethicone.

Hemisqualane and squalane: how they differ

Both ingredients are saturated hydrocarbons from sugar cane and both are chemically stable. The difference lies in the size of the molecule. Squalane has thirty carbon atoms, feels richer on the skin, stays on the surface longer and suits nourishing creams for dry skin. Hemisqualane is half the molecule, so it is thinner, spreads faster and leaves a drier, lighter feel. In a formulation they complement each other: squalane provides nourishment, hemisqualane lightens and speeds up absorption.

What is good to know

The ingredient is chemically inert, does not react with active ingredients or preservatives and does not change the pH of the formulation. You can combine it with silicones, esters and plant oils without restrictions. It is colourless and almost odourless, so it will not affect the fragrance or the shade of the product.

Hemisqualane is not volatile. Unlike cyclomethicone it does not evaporate from the skin but remains on it as a very thin, non-sticky film. When replacing cyclomethicone in a formulation, therefore allow for slightly different drying behaviour, especially in sprays and antiperspirants.

Hemisqualane is inherently biodegradable according to OECD 302, produced without GMO and without materials of animal origin.

Frequently asked questions