Valeriana Essential Oil, 100 ml

Valerian essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the root of Valeriana officinalis and brings a woody scent to cosmetics, together with effects that the manufacturer associates with relaxation and calming. In a formulation it does two jobs at once: it works as a fragrance ingredient and also as an active ingredient with a soothing and warming effect on the skin. The manufacturer lists it for use in massage oils, body balms, facial oils and scalp products.

It is supplied as a pure, undiluted, preservative-free and alcohol-free oil. It is handled like other essential oils, that is, in a small amount, added to the oil phase or to the finished base once the mixture has cooled.

Effects according to the manufacturer

• Soothing effect on the skin – the manufacturer states that the oil helps to ease the feeling of irritation and redness on the skin. It can be used in body balms, facial oils or scalp products.
• Warming effect – it leaves a mild feeling of warmth on the skin. The manufacturer recommends it for massage oils and creams intended for relaxation, where the warming sensation complements the massage itself.
• Anti-inflammatory effect – according to the manufacturer’s marketing materials, the oil supports the calming of irritated skin and a more even-looking complexion. The manufacturer does not cite any studies supporting this effect in these materials, so it is a claim made by the manufacturer.
• Effect on the scalp – in hair oils and treatments it is said by the manufacturer to soothe the scalp and, through its scent, to support a feeling of relaxation.
• Woody scent – in fragrance compositions it forms a deeper, calm note that the manufacturer describes as “grounding”. It suits blends intended for relaxation.

Use in formulations

The oil is insoluble in water and mixes with vegetable oils, butters and alcohol. In anhydrous products such as massage oils, balms or scrubs with an oil base, it is mixed directly into the finished base. In emulsions it is added during the cooling phase or afterwards into the finished cream. For water-based products, such as toners or sprays, it must first be combined with a solubiliser, otherwise it separates and forms droplets on the surface.

The manufacturer does not state a recommended usage rate. The maximum permitted amount in the finished product is set by the IFRA limit for the given product category. For lip products category 1 applies, for body oils and creams category 5A, for facial creams and toners category 5B, and for shampoos and solid or liquid soaps category 9. You will find the limits for all categories in the IFRA certificate in the Product documentation section.

The scent is woody and distinctive. Before working it into a larger batch, prepare a small test sample and assess the scent on its own and in combination with the other essential oils in the recipe.

Suitable for products such as

• Massage oils and creams – a warming feeling on the skin and a relaxing scent; the manufacturer lists them as the typical use of the warming effect.
• Body balms and body oils – an anhydrous oil base in which the oil dissolves without any further auxiliary ingredients.
• Facial oils – to make use of the soothing effect, with the usage rate set according to the relevant IFRA category.
• Hair oils and scalp treatments – according to the manufacturer they soothe the scalp and support relaxation through their scent.
• Foot creams – the warming effect can be combined with a foot massage.
• Body and facial scrubs – in an oil base, the oil adds scent and complements the effect of the carrier oil.
• Natural perfumes and fragrance blends – a woody base note, with the usage rate set according to IFRA category 4.

Good to know

The colour of the oil ranges from light yellow through yellow-green to yellow-brown. In darker bases it does not show at normal usage rates, but in white creams or clear oil it may show slightly at a higher usage rate. Check it in a test sample.

The oil can be used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. In both cases the IFRA limit for the specific category applies, and rinse-off products such as shampoos and soaps have their own categories with different limits from products left on the skin.

The oil’s constituents include gamma-terpinene and p-cymene, which are marked in the parameters as CMR constituents. The oil is cosmetic and food grade and is certified as vegan.

Frequently asked questions