AvenaPlex, Oat Hydrating Complex, 10 g

AvenaPlex is a lipid complex from the kernels of cultivated oat that replenishes the skin with ceramides, phospholipids, glycolipids and phytosterols — fats of the same type as those that form its own protective barrier. In a formulation it works as both an active ingredient and an emollient. It is dosed at low levels, typically 1%, in creams, balms and oily serums for dry and sensitive skin.

The manufacturer developed it for skin barrier restoration and long-term hydration support. According to their studies, it increases the content of ceramides and hyaluronic acid in the skin, reduces transepidermal water loss and soothes redness. The raw material is northern European oat. The extract is produced by ethanol extraction followed by separation of the polar lipid fractions.

Key benefits

• Skin lipid barrier restoration – the complex replenishes the skin's natural lipid profile. According to the manufacturer's studies, application elongates lipid lamellae in the intercellular space and reduces transepidermal water loss.
• Hydration support – in the manufacturer's tests, the content of hyaluronic acid in the skin increased and hydration improved both in the short term and after prolonged use.
• Appearance of mature skin – replenishes lipids that diminish with age. The manufacturer reports an increase in ceramide levels in the skin and a visible reduction of wrinkles at the corners of the eyes.
• Reduction of redness – according to the manufacturer's data, it soothes irritated skin and protects cells from oxidative stress. The complex naturally also contains avenanthramides and vitamin E.
• Tolerability – the manufacturer claims hypoallergenic action, non-comedogenic potential and a successful repeated patch test (HRIPT). It is therefore among the active ingredients for sensitive skin.

How it differs from oat oil

Oat oil consists predominantly of triglycerides and functions as an emollient in a formulation. AvenaPlex is produced by further extraction that concentrates the polar lipids. They make up at least 40% of the complex, with ceramides accounting for at least 4% and phospholipids approximately 20%. The remainder is neutral lipids, mainly triglycerides and phytosterols, with a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids. Polar lipids are a component of the skin barrier, so the complex fulfils a different role than oil and requires only 1% dosing.

Use in formulation

The complex is oil-soluble and insoluble in water. It is supplied as a thick liquid of yellow-brown to orange colour with a natural oat fragrance. It belongs in the oil phase or in the cool-down phase and is processed at a temperature up to 40 °C.

The recommended dosage is 1%. In anhydrous products (balms, oily serums, massage oils) it is blended directly into the oil base. In hot-process emulsions it is added only after the mass has cooled below 40 °C; in cold-process emulsions it can be in the oil phase from the start. Check the effect on colour and scent of the finished product at the specific dosage.

The complex has a high proportion of polyunsaturated fatty acids, so we recommend adding an antioxidant to the oil phase, for example tocopherol. In products with a water phase, preservation remains necessary. It is suitable for rinse-off and leave-on products for the face, body, hands and scalp.

Suitable for products such as

• creams and balms for dry and sensitive skin with the aim of restoring the barrier and reducing water loss
• night and regenerating creams for mature skin
• oily serums and anhydrous balms
• hand creams subjected to frequent washing
• soothing preparations for red and irritated skin
• hair masks, conditioners and scalp products
• cleansing creams and shower oils

Good to know

In the oil phase it combines with vegetable oils and butters. In a moisturising formulation it is complemented by humectants in the water phase, such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid: lipids limit water loss from the skin, humectants bind it.

The product is of plant origin, free from GMO components and free from materials of animal origin. It has not been tested on animals for cosmetic purposes and is readily biodegradable (OECD 301). The dosage of 1% applies to the raw material. Verify the tolerability of the finished product in a stability and dermatological test, as with any formulation.

Frequently asked questions