MONTANOV 68 MB, emulgator, 100 g

Montanov 68 MB is a plant-based O/W emulsifier for creams and body lotions with a creamy to thick texture. It combines cetearyl alcohol with cetearyl glucoside, i.e. a fatty alcohol with a sugar component, and in a formulation it simultaneously emulsifies and thickens. In an emulsion it forms a lamellar structure that binds water and, according to the manufacturer's studies, supports the skin's lipid barrier. It is therefore best suited where a cream needs to retain moisture for longer: in care for dry skin, night and nourishing creams, body lotions and cream masks.

It is produced without ethylene oxide, without solvents and without preservatives. The raw material holds an RSPO MB certificate and the manufacturer lists it as approved for the Ecocert, COSMOS and Natrue standards.

Key benefits

• Emulsifies a wide range of oils – vegetable oils, esters, silicone and mineral oils. According to the manufacturer, it handles up to 40% oil phase, and depending on formulation composition up to 50–60%.
• Lamellar phases and stability – around oil droplets and in the water phase it forms ordered bilayers that reinforce the emulsion and act as water reservoirs in the finished cream.
• Long-lasting hydration – in the manufacturer's study with 3% Montanov 68, skin hydration increased after a single application and the effect lasted 5 hours. In another manufacturer test, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) fell by approximately one fifth after 15 days of using a cream with Montanov 68 and Montanov 202, which the manufacturer attributes to strengthening of the lipid barrier.
• Non-ionic character – compatible with cationic, anionic, amphoteric and non-ionic ingredients. Can be combined with conditioning agents and with most active ingredients.
• Wide pH range – works in the range of pH 3–10, from acidic formulations with fruit acids to alkaline formulations.

Use in formulation

The recommended dosage is 1–3%. Lower dosage gives a more fluid emulsion; the upper limit produces a thick cream without additional consistency agents. Montanov 68 MB is not water-soluble – it dissolves in oil and can be dispersed in water. The pellets are added to the oil phase and melted with it at 70–80 °C. For formulations with a very low oil content, the manufacturer allows adding them to the water phase as well.

Both phases are combined at the same temperature and emulsified. The manufacturer recommends a rotor-stator homogenizer; with a higher proportion of gel thickener, a lower-shear mixer is sufficient. The emulsion is then cooled slowly and smoothly to 50 °C and further cooled with gentle stirring.

It combines well with gel thickeners, for example polyacrylate-based ones, which additionally stabilise the emulsion and allow the shear during homogenisation to be reduced. The manufacturer also pairs it with the sister emulsifier Montanov 202 in their own formulations. According to the manufacturer's test, an emulsion with Montanov 68 remains stable even with 6% hydrogen peroxide and pH 4, both at room temperature and at 45 °C for one year.

Suitable for products such as

• Dry skin creams – night, nourishing and regenerating facial creams where a richer texture and longer-lasting hydration are desired.
• Body creams and lotions – from a more fluid lotion at lower dosage to a thick body butter with a higher oil content.
• Hand and foot creams – the emulsifier can carry a high oil content and the lamellar structure helps retain water in the skin.
• Hair masks and conditioners – the non-ionic structure is compatible with cationic conditioning agents.
• Sun care and decorative cosmetics – the manufacturer also lists it for sunscreen creams and cream-based products such as tinted creams.

Good to know

Montanov 68 MB is an emulsifier for hot processing. It is not suitable for cold-mixed emulsions; the pellets will not melt without heating. The resulting texture is creamy to rich with a nourishing feel on the skin. For light, fast-absorbing fluids, a different type of emulsifier is more appropriate.

The emulsifier contains no preservatives, so every aqueous emulsion made with it requires its own preservation system. The preservative is added during cooling according to its temperature tolerance.

The raw material is readily biodegradable (OECD 301), of plant origin and contains no ingredients of animal origin. It is therefore also suitable for vegan cosmetics, provided the rest of the formulation permits.

Frequently asked questions