Lemon Myrtle Essential Oil, 500 ml

Lemon myrtle essential oil smells like fresh lemon, but it comes from the leaves of the Australian shrub Backhousia citriodora. It is obtained by steam distillation and, in a formulation, serves as a fragrance component that gives the finished product a clean citrus character without any oil pressed from citrus peel. The manufacturer describes the scent as invigorating and refreshing.

It is suitable for body and hair cosmetics, massage oils, bath products, fragrance compositions and aromatherapy blends for diffusers.

What it brings to your formulation

• Citrus scent from the leaves – the scent resembles fresh lemon, but it does not come from the fruit peel. In fragrance compositions and scent blends it is used as a fresh citrus component.
• Refreshing and cooling sensation – according to the manufacturer, it has a cooling effect on the skin. The manufacturer recommends it for after-sun products, foot care and wherever a product is meant to pleasantly cool the skin in hot weather.
• Cleansing support – the manufacturer states that it helps remove impurities and excess sebum from the skin and hair, which is why the manufacturer also includes it in cleansing cosmetics for the face and hair.
• Antimicrobial properties – the manufacturer lists them among the main functions of the oil. In your formulation, treat them as a supplement, not a replacement for a preservative system, the efficacy of which must be verified separately.
• Refreshing hair cosmetics – in hair mists, hair perfumes and leave-on products, it brings, according to the manufacturer, a distinctive citrus scent and a feeling of freshness.

The manufacturer also states that the oil brightens the skin and evens out its tone. No studies are provided for this effect, so treat it with caution when describing a finished product.

Use in a formulation

The oil is insoluble in water. In anhydrous products, that is massage and body oils, balms or oil serums, it is mixed in directly. In emulsions, it is added to the oil phase or only to the finished, cooled emulsion. For toners, hair mists and other water-based products, it must first be dissolved in a solubiliser, for example Polysorbate 20 or Polysorbate 80, otherwise it separates and forms an oil film on the surface.

Like most essential oils, it is sensitive to heat. When heated, some of the fragrance components evaporate and the scent weakens, so it is added only at the end of production, when the product is cooling.

The maximum usage rate is governed by the IFRA standard, which sets a separate limit for each product category. Different limits apply to lip products, hand creams, body lotions, shampoos and candles. You will find the values for individual categories in the product parameters. Work with them in every formulation, especially for leave-on products.

Suitable for products such as

• body and massage oils, body lotions and creams
• after-sun products and cooling gels or creams for the feet
• hand creams and balms
• hair mists, hair perfumes and leave-on hair products
• fragrance compositions and colognes with a citrus character
• bath products and aromatherapy blends for diffusers

Good to know

The oil is classified as a sensitiser. It therefore makes sense to test the finished product on a smaller group of users before launch and to keep the usage rate at the lower end of the permitted range, especially in facial products and children’s cosmetics.

In water-based products with a solubiliser, cloudiness may appear at a higher usage rate of the oil. Test the ratio of solubiliser to essential oil in advance on a small sample and let the mixture stand for a day.

Frequently asked questions