Star Anise Essential Oil, 100 ml

Star anise essential oil

Star anise essential oil is obtained by steam distillation of the fruits of star anise (Illicium verum), which is native to Asia. In a formulation it has two roles: it is a fragrance component with a sweet, spicy scent reminiscent of liquorice, and also an active ingredient for oil-based and emulsion products for the body and hair. It is both cosmetic and food grade, so it can be used in soaps, bath salts, candles, aromatherapy and food production.

What the manufacturer states about its effects

In its documentation, the supplier describes four areas of action. All of them are cosmetic claims made by the manufacturer.

• Warming effect – it creates a feeling of mild warmth on the skin, so the manufacturer recommends it mainly for massage oils and creams intended for relaxation.
• Soothing effect on the skin – according to the manufacturer, it helps ease the feeling of irritation and redness.
• Antimicrobial effect – the manufacturer presents it as support for clean-looking skin.
• Anti-inflammatory effect – a manufacturer claim aimed at skin prone to irritation.

For the scalp, the manufacturer recommends it for a refreshing feeling and an aromatic effect in hair products.

Use in a formulation

The oil is soluble in oil and in alcohol, and insoluble in water. In emulsions it belongs in the oil phase or is added during the cooling phase; in anhydrous products it is mixed directly into the finished base. In both cases the recommended processing temperature is below 40 °C.

In water-based systems without oil, such as toners, hair lotions or shower gels with a high water content, a solubiliser or an alcohol base is needed, otherwise the oil separates on the surface. In alcohol-based products, for example eau de toilette and perfumes, it dissolves without any auxiliary ingredients.

The usage rate is not given as a single value. It is governed by the IFRA certificate, which sets the maximum permitted level in individual product categories, from lip products to candles. For each type of product, therefore, check the relevant category and limit before putting together your recipe.

Suitable for products such as

• Massage oils and body butters – this is where the manufacturer directs the warming effect, complemented by the sweet, spicy scent.
• Body creams and lotions – as a fragrance component added during the cooling phase.
• Hair oils and conditioners – for the aromatic, refreshing feeling on the scalp stated by the manufacturer.
• Soaps, bath bombs and bath salts – a sweet, spicy scent for bath and washing products, within the relevant IFRA category.
• Candles and diffusers – in aromatherapy it is valued for its warm, calming scent.
• Food use – the oil is food grade; here too, the usage rate follows the applicable regulations.

Good to know

According to the specification, the estragole content ranges between 2 and 7%. A specific batch has a value within this range.

Star anise is often confused with anise (Pimpinella anisum). The scent of the two oils is similar, but botanically they come from different plants. Star anise is the fruit of the Illicium verum tree, while anise is the seed of a herbaceous plant. When substituting one for the other, therefore, go by the INCI name and the IFRA certificate of the specific oil.

Frequently asked questions