UREA USP, Pharmaceutical Quality, 100 g

Urea acts as a humectant in cosmetics: it binds water and helps retain it in the skin and hair. It is added to formulations as an active ingredient for dry skin on the body and feet, and to hair products.

It is supplied in pharmaceutical grade (USP). It is incorporated into the water phase of emulsions, into gels and into water-alcohol solutions. In formulations it also appears under the name carbamide.

Key properties

• Water binding – in a formulation it acts as a humectant and at the same time as an active ingredient for dry skin.
• Solubility in water, alcohol and glycols – urea dissolves directly in the water phase, without a solubiliser.
• Usage rate 3–10% – the recommended range for body, foot and hair products.
• Synthetic origin – the ingredient is produced by chemical synthesis.
• Readily biodegradable – urea is readily biodegradable according to OECD 301. This is useful for rinse-off products that end up in wastewater.

Use in a formulation

Urea belongs in the water phase. Weigh it out, add it to the water and stir until it has dissolved completely. Only then continue with the remaining steps of the formulation. It can also be added to an emulsion afterwards, dissolved in a portion of the water set aside from the water phase.

The recommended usage rate is 3–10% of the total weight of the product. Try the exact value within this range on a small test batch.

Suitable for products such as

• Body lotions and creams – emulsions for dry body skin, in which the humectant in the water phase complements oils and butters.
• Foot and heel creams – richer emulsions for dry skin on the feet.
• Hair conditioners, masks and shampoos – urea is dissolved in the water-based formulation.
• Gels and tonics for body and hair – water-based or water-alcohol bases. It is advisable to check compatibility with the chosen thickener on a sample.

Good to know

The ingredient is intended for body, foot and hair products. We have no recommendation for it in facial products.

Data on solubility in oils is missing. For this reason urea is not recommended for anhydrous body butters and balms without testing. It is intended for formulations that contain water, alcohol or glycol.

The substance is not classified as hazardous under the CLP Regulation.

Frequently asked questions