Pullulan DuoLux CM, 500 g

Pullulan DuoLux CM leaves a thin transparent film on the skin that smooths its surface after drying. This polysaccharide obtained by fermentation is added to the water phase of serums, tonics, masks, cleansing and hair preparations, where it works as a film-forming agent with low viscosity. At a dosage of 0.5 – 5%, it gives the formulation a smooth feel and a light tightening effect without thickening it or making it sticky.

The ingredient is of biotechnological origin. It is produced by fermentation of the microorganism Aureobasidium and is supplied in both food-grade and cosmetic-grade quality.

What Pullulan does in a formulation

• Film-forming effect – after application and water evaporation, it forms a continuous, transparent and flexible film on the skin or hair. At standard dosages it is not greasy and feels smooth to the touch.
• Tightening effect – as the film dries, it slightly tightens the skin surface. The complexion appears firmer and smoother shortly after application; the effect is cosmetic and temporary, lasting until the next wash.
• Low viscosity – a 10% solution has a viscosity of only 15 – 180 cP, significantly less than common thickeners. It does not thicken the formulation even at higher dosages, making it suitable for liquid and spray products.
• Slip and adhesion – the film adheres well to the surface and improves the slip of the product on the skin when spreading serums and light emulsions.
• Barrier function – the manufacturer states that the film limits skin contact with harmful environmental substances. The extent of this effect depends on the dosage and composition of the finished product.

Use in formulation

Pullulan is soluble in water and insoluble in oil, so it belongs exclusively to the water phase. It dissolves well, but like any polysaccharide it may form lumps when added too quickly, which then dissolve slowly. Gradual addition into the vortex of stirring water, or pre-mixing with glycerin or another humectant followed by dilution with water, has proven effective.

It can be dissolved cold or warm; the recommended processing temperature is up to 80 °C. The ingredient has good thermal stability and can therefore be incorporated into the water phase of an emulsion before emulsification. The solution is practically neutral (pH of a 10% solution 5.0 – 7.0) and does not significantly affect the formulation's own pH.

An aqueous solution of pullulan is a nutrient source for microorganisms, so the finished product requires effective preservation. The ingredient's compatibility is unrestricted; it is compatible with common active ingredients, humectants and preservative systems. In formulations with a higher alcohol content, it is advisable to check that the film remains clear and that the ingredient does not precipitate.

Suitable for products such as

• Serums and ampoules with an immediate effect – the tightening film smooths the complexion shortly after application.
• Facial masks – peel-off masks and sheet masks, where the film helps keep active ingredients in contact with the skin.
• Tonics and mists – low viscosity allows use in a spray without clogging.
• Facial cleansing products – improves slip and skin feel in rinse-off preparations.
• Hair cosmetics – sprays, conditioners and styling preparations. The film coats the hair, improves smoothness and provides light hold.

Good to know

Pullulan belongs to the polysaccharides, but functionally it differs from thickeners. Its role is film formation, not viscosity. If you need to thicken the product, combine it with a separate thickener, such as xanthan gum or Carbomer, and check that the film retains its transparency.

At higher concentrations, a slightly tacky feel or a visible film may develop after drying. In aqueous serums, this is resolved by reducing the dosage or adding a humectant.

The ingredient is suitable for all skin types including sensitive skin, contains no fragrance allergens or GMO-derived components, and is readily biodegradable. It is used in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

Frequently asked questions