Sugarcane Squalane, 100 ml

Sugarcane squalane is a lightweight emollient of plant origin that absorbs quickly into the skin without a greasy film. In formulations it replaces or complements vegetable oils wherever the product should have a smooth, drier feel and long oxidative stability: in serums, facial oils, creams, lip balms and hair care products. It is compatible with the skin because its template is squalene, a natural component of sebum. It is obtained by fermentation of sugarcane (Saccharum officinarum), followed by hydrogenation and distillation, without shark-derived raw materials and without palm oil ingredients.

Key benefits

• Restoration of the skin barrier – replenishes lipids that the skin is lacking and reduces transepidermal water loss. It is therefore suitable for preparations for dry and atopic skin as well as children's cosmetics.
• Lightweight, non-greasy feel – spreads smoothly, absorbs quickly and leaves no shine. It is also tolerated by oily and acne-prone skin that rejects conventional oils.
• Oxidative stability – squalane is fully saturated, so it does not turn yellow or change fragrance the way unsaturated vegetable oils do. In formulations it also helps protect more sensitive oils.
• Elasticity and smoothness – after application, the skin appears more supple and resilient. It is therefore used in care for mature skin, the eye area and the décolleté.
• Shine and combability of hair – on hair it forms a thin film that smooths the cuticle, enhances shine and makes combing easier without weighing hair down.
• Tolerability – fragrance-free, colourless, without perfume allergens. Suitable for sensitive skin and products with the simplest possible formulation.

Use in formulation

Sugarcane squalane belongs to the oil phase. It does not dissolve in water; it mixes with vegetable oils, esters, waxes and most lipophilic active ingredients. It is added in the range of 1 – 100 %: in emulsions it forms part of the oil phase; in facial and hair oils it can serve as a carrier or the entire formulation.

It can be processed cold or hot. During emulsification it can be heated together with other oils; the recommended processing temperature is up to 80 °C. Unlike oils with a high content of unsaturated fatty acids, it does not require antioxidant protection, even when heated.

In emulsions it softens the feel of heavier oils and butters. A cream with shea butter or coconut oil feels lighter and absorbs more quickly after squalane is added. In anhydrous serums and oil blends it improves spreadability and gives the finished product a drier touch.

In hair cosmetics it works in rinse-off and leave-on products. A small proportion is sufficient in a conditioner or mask; in a leave-on hair serum or oil for ends it is used in higher proportions. At higher doses in a leave-on product, fine hair may appear weighed down, so test the proportion on a small sample first.

Suitable for products such as

• facial serums and oils, especially for sensitive, dry and mature skin
• creams and lotions for atopic skin and children's cosmetics
• eye creams and lip balms
• cleansing oils and balms that are rinsed off after application
• shower and bath oils
• hair serums, end oils, conditioners and masks
• decorative cosmetics: liquid foundations, lipsticks, lip glosses, oil eyeshadows

It is also suitable for scalp, hand and foot care.

Good to know

Squalane does not saponify. In cold-process soap it therefore does not contribute to hardness or lather, and is used only as a superfatting ingredient in a small proportion, similarly to other unsaponifiable lipids.

In emulsions it behaves as a low-viscosity oil. It does not thicken, and if you replace a larger portion of the butters with it, expect a thinner texture. Adjust the viscosity with wax, cetyl alcohol or another structuring ingredient.

The raw material is colourless and almost odourless, so it does not affect the colour or fragrance of the finished product. It is suitable for formulations where the perfume should be clean and without an oily background note.

The purity of squalane is min. 92 %, the remainder being related saturated hydrocarbons with the same behaviour. The raw material holds COSMOS Approved certification and is readily biodegradable.

Squalane, squalene and the origin of the raw material

Squalene is an unsaturated hydrocarbon that the skin produces itself and which oxidises rapidly. Squalane is its hydrogenated, saturated form: the skin accepts it equally well and it remains stable in formulations for months or years. Cosmetics therefore use almost exclusively squalane.

Squalane is produced from several sources. Historically it was obtained from shark liver; today plant-based production from olives or sugarcane predominates. Sugarcane squalane is produced by controlled fermentation of sugar, followed by hydrogenation and distillation. Both plant-based variants have the same composition and behaviour in formulations.

Frequently asked questions