Vitamin E, Tocopheryl Acetate, 1 l

Vitamin E in the form of tocopheryl acetate is added to creams, serums, body oils and hair care products as an antioxidant acting within the skin. The ester is enzymatically cleaved in the skin and releases active alpha-tocopherol. According to the manufacturer's data, it scavenges free radicals, supports hydration and improves skin elasticity and smoothness.

Compared to free tocopherol, it tolerates heat and oxygen, so it does not degrade in the finished product and requires no special protection during manufacturing. It is practically odourless and at standard dosage will not affect the product's fragrance.

What tocopheryl acetate does in a formulation

• Antioxidant skin protection – tocopherol released from the ester, according to manufacturer studies, deactivates free radicals and reduces skin damage caused by UVA and UVB radiation. It makes most sense in daily care and sun care.
• Hydration support – the manufacturer lists it as a moisturising ingredient. In combination with oils and humectants, it promotes the feeling of nourished skin.
• Elasticity and smoothness – according to manufacturer data, it improves skin elasticity and smoothness, making it suitable for formulations for mature and dry skin and for eye area care.
• Hair and lip conditioning – in hair oils, masks and lip balms it complements the oil phase and helps keep hair and lips supple.

Difference between tocopheryl acetate and tocopherol

Both raw materials are vitamin E, but they serve different roles in a formulation. Tocopherol (the free form) is itself susceptible to oxidation, which is precisely why it protects the oils and butters in a product against yellowing and rancidity. Tocopheryl acetate has its hydroxyl group protected by an acetate group, is stable and offers virtually no protection against oxidation of the oils in the product. It acts only in the skin, where it is converted to the active form. To extend the stability of the oil phase, add tocopherol; a stable antioxidant for the skin is provided by tocopheryl acetate. In many formulations, both raw materials are combined.

Use in a formulation

The raw material is soluble in oils and alcohol and does not dissolve in water. It is added to the oil phase of an emulsion or directly to anhydrous oil-based products. It withstands heating of the oil phase during emulsification, but it is recommended not to exceed 80 °C. For more sensitive formulations, it is sufficient to incorporate it during the cooling phase.

In water-based products without an oil phase (tonics, gels) it can only be incorporated with a solubiliser or through a small proportion of alcohol. Verify the amount that dissolves without clouding on a test batch.

Suitable for products such as

• Day and night creams, oil-based serums – a stable antioxidant for care of mature, dry and sensitive skin.
• Sun care and after-sun products – the manufacturer recommends it for sun care as a complement to skin protection against the effects of UV radiation.
• Body oils, butters and balms – anhydrous products in which the raw material dissolves without auxiliary agents.
• Hair oils and masks – a conditioning ingredient for hair and scalp.
• Lip balms and lip sticks – incorporated into the oil-wax base during cooling.
• Children's and decorative cosmetics – the raw material is not subject to CLP classification, contains no fragrance allergens and is odourless.
• Melt-and-pour glycerine soaps – added to the melted base just before pouring.

Good to know

• Synthetic origin, free of animal-derived ingredients – the raw material is produced by chemical synthesis and contains no materials of animal origin.
• Pharmacopoeial grade – the active substance content meets the requirements of both the European and American pharmacopoeia; the raw material has pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food-grade quality.
• Does not alter viscosity – at standard dosage it behaves like another oil in the formulation and does not thicken the product.
• Does not replace a preservative or oil antioxidant – a product containing water requires preservation regardless of the presence of vitamin E, and to protect oils against yellowing add tocopherol.
• Compatibility – it is compatible with common emulsifiers, oils and waxes. When combined with ingredients with an oxidising effect, verify stability in the finished formulation.

Frequently asked questions