Emulpharma K10 (Beautyderm), 50 g

Emulpharma K10

Emulpharma K10 is an O/W emulsifier for making creams and lotions in which water is the external phase. It combines an emulsifying component derived from sugar and fatty alcohol (Cetearyl Glucoside), an ester of olive fatty acids (Sorbitan Olivate), and cetearyl alcohol, which gives the emulsion body. It is suited to manufacturers who want to cover the emulsifier and the consistency component with a single raw material and avoid PEG ingredients.

What it brings to the formulation

• Emulsions from lotion to cream – depending on the oil phase content and dosage, a light facial lotion or a richer cream can be obtained.
• Consistency without an additional thickener – cetearyl alcohol in the blend increases viscosity, so typical creams and lotions hold their shape without the need for gums.
• PEG-free composition – there is no ethoxylated component in the formula, which is why this emulsifier is frequently chosen for naturally oriented formulations.
• Neutral character – the raw material is not subject to CLP classification and its aqueous solution has a pH of 5.5 – 7.5, so it does not cause a significant pH shift in the finished emulsion.

Use in formulation

Emulpharma K10 belongs to the oil phase. The raw material comes in the form of solid flakes that are weighed together with oils, butters and waxes. The entire phase is heated to 70 – 75 °C until the emulsifier has completely melted. The raw material itself melts at 57 – 67 °C, but during emulsification a higher temperature is used to ensure both phases are equally warm. The water phase is heated to the same temperature and combined with the oil phase under vigorous stirring. As the emulsion cools, it continues to be stirred, more slowly, down to approximately 40 °C. Heat-sensitive ingredients, essential oils, fragrance compositions and preservatives are added at that point.

The final viscosity only stabilises after complete cooling, often not until the next day. Therefore, assess the density of the emulsion no earlier than 24 hours after preparation.

The emulsifier is soluble in oil, water and alcohol; in practice, however, it is processed exclusively by melting it into the oil phase. At a higher alcohol content in the formulation, we recommend verifying emulsion stability.

Suitable for products such as

• Facial creams and lotions – the primary application, from light daily creams to richer night formulations.
• Body lotions and creams – at a higher oil phase content it gives a richer yet still spreadable texture.
• Hand and foot creams – the consistency component maintains a thicker texture without an additional thickener.
• Emulsion masks and rinse-off treatments – wherever water and oil need to be combined into a stable creamy mass.

The emulsifier is not suitable for anhydrous products (balms, oils, butters) as it has no function in them. It is also not suitable for sprays and very thin tonics.

Good to know

A formulation containing Emulpharma K10 contains water and therefore requires preservation. The preservative is added after cooling in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations, and the pH of the finished product is adjusted to the range in which the preservative is effective.

At higher dosages the emulsion may feel waxy and heavy on the skin, which is related to the cetearyl alcohol content. For a lighter feel, a lower emulsifier proportion, lighter oils, or a small amount of a light ester in the oil phase will help.

We recommend verifying the stability of the finished emulsion: several days at room temperature, in warmth and in cold, and optionally by centrifuging the sample. When the oil phase is changed or electrolytes are added (salts, certain active ingredients), the behaviour of the emulsion may change, so repeat the test with each major formulation adjustment.

Frequently asked questions