Alpha Arbutin, 5 g

Alpha Arbutin is added to cosmetics to even out skin tone. It helps reduce the visibility of pigment spots and gives the skin a brighter appearance. In a formulation it acts as a water-soluble active ingredient, so it can be incorporated into serums, toners, gels and the water phase of emulsions.

It is produced biotechnologically and is used in both face and body care. It suits formulations for all skin types, from oily and acne-prone to dry, sensitive and mature.

Effects on the skin

According to the manufacturer, Alpha Arbutin selectively inhibits the activity of tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin formation, without affecting normal skin cell growth. This is the basis for the effects for which it is used in cosmetics:

• Reduced hyperpigmentation – with long-term use of the finished product, darker areas on the skin may become less noticeable. The manufacturer mentions age spots, freckles and sun spots in particular.
• Even skin tone and brightening – the skin looks more even and brighter.
• Care for mature skin – the manufacturer also attributes anti-ageing properties to it, which is why it is added to serums and creams for mature skin.

Use in formulations

The white to off-white powder dissolves in water. In cold-process products, such as serums and toners, it dissolves directly in the water phase. In emulsions, it is added afterwards, during the cooling phase.

The usage rate is 0.2–2%. The finished product should have a pH of 3.5–6.5, so after all the ingredients have been incorporated, we recommend measuring the pH and adjusting it if necessary.

It is used in both leave-on and rinse-off products. It is compatible with anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants.

Suitable for products such as

• Face serums and toners – a water-based formula in which the powder dissolves directly.
• Face creams and lotions – the solution is stirred into the emulsion during cooling.
• Gels and gel creams – it is added to the water phase.
• Body lotions and products intended for the décolleté area – for areas with uneven skin tone.
• Cleansing gels and other rinse-off products – it can also be used in formulations with surfactants.

It is incorporated via the water phase, so it is intended for products that contain water.

Good to know

The raw material has a purity of at least 99.5%. The specification limits the hydroquinone content to a maximum of 10 ppm.

• Precise weighing – for every 100 g of product you need 0.2 to 2 g of powder, so accurate scales are worthwhile for small batches.
• Preservation – the powder is preservative-free. Serums, toners and emulsions that contain water need their own preservative.

Frequently asked questions