Natrosol 250 HHR PC, Hydroxyethylcellulose, 100 g

Natrosol 250 HHR PC, Hydroxyetylcelulóza

A water-phase thickener that turns water into a clear gel and increases viscosity in shampoos and shower gels without being broken down by salt or surfactant. Natrosol 250 HHR PC is hydroxyetylcelulóza, a water-soluble cellulose derivative. In a formulation it serves two purposes: it thickens and leaves a light film on skin or hair that improves spreadability and helps hold the shape of a hairstyle.

It tolerates both acidic and alkaline conditions in the range of pH 2 – 12 and works with every type of surfactant, with electrolytes, and with alcohol. It is therefore suited to formulations where carbomer loses viscosity after adding salts and where the result needs to remain clear.

What it brings to the formulation

• Clear gel from water – once fully dissolved, it gives a transparent to slightly hazy gel as a base for aloe gels, moisturising serum, or hair gel.
• Thickening of surfactant systems – in shampoos, shower gels, facial wash gels, and intimate hygiene products it increases viscosity regardless of surfactant type.
• Support for emulsion stability – in the water phase of a cream or lotion it increases the viscosity of the external phase and slows oil separation.
• Film on skin and hair – improves slip during application; in hair styling gels it helps to shape.
• Broad tolerance – it withstands anionic, cationic, non-ionic, and amphoteric surfactants, salts, and alcohol, so the gel will not break after adding a toner with alcohol or after further salting of a shampoo.

Use in formulation

It is added to the water phase at a dose of 0.1 – 2 %. Lower doses are sufficient for light thickening of toners and facial waters; higher doses give a gel suitable for jars or hair styling. We recommend testing the specific dose on a small batch, as the final viscosity depends on pH, salt content, and the other ingredients.

The powder is added slowly to vigorously stirred water. It first disperses and the liquid turns hazy, then gradually hydrates and clears. The processing temperature should remain below 80 °C. Other ingredients, especially surfactants, salts, and preservative, are added only once the powder has fully dissolved into a gel.

In emulsions it is dissolved in the water phase before combining with the oil phase. The gel tolerates heating to standard emulsification temperature; however, it can also be added to finished water bases cold. For surfactant products it is sufficient to mix the prepared gel with the surfactant blend and adjust the pH.

Suitable for products such as

• Moisturising face gels and serums that need to stay transparent and lightweight.
• Shower gels, shampoos, and facial wash gels where the surfactant blend needs to be thickened even at higher salt content.
• Intimate hygiene products where stable viscosity at a lower pH is needed.
• Hair gels and styling products that shape and leave a flexible film.
• Toners and facial waters, where it adds just enough body to prevent them from running off the hand.
• Water creams and lotions as an auxiliary thickener for the water phase alongside an emulsifier.
• Water-based decorative cosmetics, for example gel mascaras or liquid eyeliners.

What is good to know when formulating

A finished water gel or surfactant system requires a preservative. The thickener itself has no preservative effect, and the preservative is added only after the powder has fully dissolved.

When working with alcohol, the gel is prepared in water and the alcohol is blended in only at the end. Compatibility with alcohol makes it possible to thicken even a toner containing alcohol; however, the final stability of every combination should be verified in the finished formulation.

Difference compared to other thickeners

Carbomer gives a glass-clear gel but is sensitive to salts and requires neutralisation. Hydroxyetylcelulóza tolerates electrolytes and works across the full range of pH 2 – 12, making it suitable for surfactant products and formulations with higher levels of extracts or salts. Compared with xanthan gum it gives a clearer gel and tolerates alcohol better.

Frequently asked questions