AminoSensyl Ultra MB, Conditioning Agent, 100 g

AminoSensyl Ultra MB, conditioner

AminoSensyl Ultra MB is a cationic conditioning base for hair cosmetics that combines a conditioning agent and an O/W emulsifier in a single ingredient. It gives conditioners, masks and leave-in care a smooth hair surface, easier detangling and a stable creamy consistency — no additional emulsifier is needed in the formula. The cationic portion is derived from the amino acid valine and plant-based fatty components; body and consistency of the emulsion are provided by cetearyl alcohol (Cetearyl Alcohol).

The ingredient is intended for hair and scalp and works in the acidic environment in which hair care products are commonly formulated.

How it works

The cationic conditioning component binds to the negatively charged surface of the hair fibre. A thin film forms on the hair that smooths the cuticle and reduces friction during detangling. With rinse-out products the result is visible immediately after rinsing as smoother, more manageable hair; with leave-in products the film remains on the hair until the next wash.

The second role of the ingredient is emulsification. Together with cetearyl alcohol it forms an oil-in-water emulsion, keeping oils and butters in the formula evenly dispersed and giving the conditioner a creamy, easy-to-spread texture.

Key benefits

• Conditioning and detangling – reduces friction between hairs and makes it easier to comb wet and dry hair.
• Emulsifier and conditioning agent in one – stabilises the O/W emulsion without an additional emulsifier, simplifying both the formula and the manufacturing process.
• Rinse-out and leave-in products – the same ingredient works in a classic conditioner, a mask and a leave-in cream.
• Acidic pH – recommended formulation range is pH 3.5 – 5.5.
• Certifications – palm derivatives are covered by the RSPO Mass Balance certificate, the ingredient holds Halal certification and is not classified as hazardous under the CLP regulation.

Use in formulation

It is added to the oil phase at a level of 1 – 5 %. The oil phase together with the ingredient is heated until everything is completely melted; the processing temperature should remain below 80 °C. The water phase is heated to a similar temperature, both phases are combined with continuous stirring and the emulsion is gradually cooled. In water alone the ingredient only disperses, so it should not be added directly to the cold water phase.

The dosage determines the character of the product. At lower concentrations lighter milks and leave-in conditioners are formed; towards the upper limit richer masks and conditioners for dry or damaged hair. The amount of oils and butters in the formula affects the final viscosity, so we recommend preparing a small batch on the first trial and assessing the texture only after it has cooled completely.

The ingredient is compatible with amphoteric, cationic and non-ionic surfactants. When combined with anionic surfactants, verify stability on a trial batch.

Suitable for products such as

• Rinse-out conditioner – a base texture for everyday detangling and smoothing of hair.
• Hair mask – at a higher dosage and a greater proportion of butters a rich mask with longer action is formed.
• Leave-in conditioner or cream – a lighter emulsion that stays on the hair and makes styling easier.
• Scalp care – creamy products with an acidic pH to which additional active ingredients are added.

What is good to know

• Solubility – the ingredient is oil-soluble and water-dispersible. It melts in the oil phase, not in water.
• Temperature – do not exceed 80 °C. Cooling with continuous stirring helps to form a uniform, smooth emulsion.
• Preservation – the finished product is an aqueous emulsion and requires a preservative effective at acidic pH. Verify that the chosen preservative works within the pH range 3.5 – 5.5.
• Oil phase – oils and butters are added together with the ingredient to the oil phase; heat-sensitive oils and essential oils only during cooling.

Frequently asked questions