Benefits of water-free cosmetics: Why it is worth choosing products without water

Summer is quite a challenge for our skin. Increased exposure to UV radiation, high temperatures, frequent travel and air-conditioned spaces can dry it out and irritate it. If you want to relieve your skin and at the same time take care of it gently and effectively, it may be time to discover water-free cosmetics – that is, products without water content, which today rank among the growing trends in skin care. Let’s take a closer look at the benefits they offer us.

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics

1) Higher concentration of active ingredients
In conventional face creams, water often makes up as much as 90 % of the formulation. Water-free products –  balms, oils, sticks or powders – work differently: they do not contain water, and so they can consist of several active and nourishing components in the same volume as water-based products.

2) Lower need for preservatives
Water is precisely the breeding ground for bacteria. That is why it is necessary to use preservatives in conventional cosmetics; we cannot avoid them even in natural cosmetics. Water-free cosmetics often almost completely bypass the use of preservatives and thus can be gentler on the skin in summer, when it is more sensitive.

3) Longer shelf life and better stability in heat
High temperatures do not benefit classic creams; degradation or phase separation of emulsions may occur. Anhydrous products, however, are much more stable – they do not contain emulsions or water that could spoil, and they tolerate heat as well as longer transport very well.

4) Eco-friendliness and sustainability
The production of cosmetics without water saves an enormous amount of this precious resource. In addition, such products tend to be more compact, use less packaging and leave a smaller environmental footprint. In times of climate crisis, this is a simple step in the right direction.

5) Practicality when travelling in summer
A solid balm, stick or powder serum will not spill, does not take up much space and passes through airport security without problems. Water-free products are lightweight, practical and withstand demanding conditions, whether you are travelling to a festival, on holiday or just for a weekend by the water. An undeniable benefit of natural water-free products is that, thanks to their composition, they do not disrupt the ecosystem, and are therefore an excellent choice when hiking or camping in nature.

A classic moisturising cream can indeed deliver water into the skin, but in summer it evaporates quickly due to high temperatures and lower relative humidity of the environment. The skin also loses water as a result of the effects of UV radiation, sweating, more frequent washing, bathing in chlorinated swimming pools, as well as mechanical friction (towels, clothing...). Water-free products create a protective barrier on the skin that helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

A common ingredient in natural water-free cosmetic products is plant butters, which you can read about on the Handymade blog.

One of the most valuable butters, which comes from Africa, is shea butter (Shea butter in English). It has been proven that it helps retain water in the skin, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, and also slows down skin ageing¹ thanks to its high content of vitamins A and E. It is very suitable in products for preventing the formation of stretch marks and is also able to partially absorb UV radiation thanks to the content of esters of cinnamic acid and triterpene alcohols, which is why it is suitable for sun creams. Unrefined shea butter has a specific scent, which needs to be taken into account when incorporating it into formulations. If you are looking for a simple way to give your skin the benefits of shea butter, try whipped butter – it is gentle, nourishing and at the same time brings a luxurious feeling of pampering the skin. 

 

 

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics - whipped butter to support skin regeneration

Ingredients:

● 10 g beeswax
● 50 g jojoba oil
● 50 g shea butter
● 40 g mango butter
● 15 g argan oil
● 10 g avocado oil
● 4 g liquid coenzyme Q10
● 1 g pomegranate extract
● 15 drops of liquid vitamin E
● essential oil or fragrance oil according to preference
 (in this recipe, Mango fragrance oil and Indian rosewood essential oil were used)

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics - method

Disinfect all tools and containers you will use, for example with high-proof alcohol.

In a water bath, melt the beeswax, butters and oils in a bowl suitable for whipping. Let the mixture slightly solidify in the refrigerator or freezer. You can recognise the correct consistency by the fact that the created „crust“ breaks when you gently press on the surface.

Then whip the mixture with an electric mixer, add the active ingredients – vitamin E, pomegranate extract, Q10 and fragrances.

Whip with breaks until you achieve a fluffy and firm consistency.

With proper storage, the whipped butter will last for several months.

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics - use and tips

This whipped butter is suitable for evening skin care in summer after sun exposure, ideally for example after a bath, since it also contains beeswax and richer components, so it remains on the skin longer and keeps it supple and hydrated. In addition to butters and oils that are rich in vitamins A, B, D and E, this butter also contains other active ingredients – coenzyme Q10 and pomegranate extract, which enhance the regenerative effect of the product, help prevent premature skin ageing and improve its condition. 

There are now many recipes for whipped butter; you can prepare various variations by substituting oils or butters with another type, depending on the intended use of the butter. In general, if you are not able to whip the mixture and it is too hard, add liquid oil and repeat the process. If, on the contrary, it does not whip and is runny, add melted butter and whip again. An ingredient that is not worth omitting from the recipe is vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, which is among the most important antioxidants for the skin. Its main role is to protect cells from damage caused by free radicals and solar radiation². In addition, it slows down the oxidation of oils, so your butter will stay fresh for longer. 

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics - conclusion

The article explaining the benefits of water-free cosmetics will certainly convince you that it is really worth making your own natural cosmetics at home. That is why the article also includes instructions for creating a regenerative whipped body butter, which is easy to make for beginners as well as advanced users.
We believe that thanks to this article with instructions you will discover a love for making natural cosmetics.

We thank our customer and creator Erika Samoľová for the great contribution and the recipe for whipped butter.

Sources:

1) Ayanlowo O. et al. African oils in dermatology. Dermatologic Therapy. 2022; 35. DOI: 10.1111/dth.14968
2) Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. J. Mol. Med. 1995, 73, p. 7-17