Ceramides SKINMIMICS PRO MB, 5 ml

SKINMIMICS PRO MB ceramides supply face creams and serums with the lipids that make up the skin’s protective barrier: seven ceramides, plant-derived cholesterol and behenic acid. The blend combines long-chain ceramides identical to the skin’s own ceramides with bioactive short-chain ceramides. It is intended mainly for mature skin, which loses moisture and elasticity more easily, but it can be used for all skin types.

The lipids are incorporated in a multilamellar base with polyglycerol-based emulsifiers, free from ethoxylates, PEG and listed preservatives. The building blocks of ceramides, phytosphingosine and sphingosine, are produced by fermentation, so they have the same spatial structure as the ceramides in the skin. The raw material is vegan certified and the manufacturer holds the RSPO MB (Mass Balance) certificate.

The role of individual lipids

Each component of the blend has its own role in the lipid layer between skin cells. The manufacturer describes them as follows:

• Ceramide EOP – forms and stabilises the lipid lamellae and links the individual lipid bilayers.
• Ceramide NP – is present in large amounts in the lamellae and protects the skin against moisture loss.
• Ceramide NS – gives the lipid lamellae flexibility.
• Ceramide AP – takes part in the natural shedding of dead skin cells.
• Bioactive short-chain ceramides – act as signalling molecules. According to the manufacturer, they participate in regulating cell growth and maturation and in processes associated with skin ageing.
• Behenic acid – a free fatty acid that influences the integrity of the intercellular lipids.
• Cholesterol – of plant origin, needed for proper barrier function and for the arrangement of lipids into lamellae.

Manufacturer’s test results

The manufacturer tested the effect of the raw material in several tests. The following data are the manufacturer’s own.

• Ceramide content in the skin – skin explants treated for 6 days with an O/W emulsion containing 5% of the raw material had visibly more ceramides in the stratum corneum than those treated with an emulsion without the active ingredient. The result was comparable to the older version, SKINMIMICS MB.
• Collagen and elastin – with an O/W emulsion containing 1.5% of the raw material, the manufacturer recorded higher activity of collagen markers and TGF-β1 on explants, a statistically significant increase in collagen I and a slight increase in elastin.
• Barrier and water balance – this test was carried out with the older version, SKINMIMICS MB. After 4 weeks of using a serum with 5% of the raw material, the markers associated with barrier function, lipid formation and aquaporin 3 increased, more markedly in the over-50 group. The ceramide composition is almost the same, so the manufacturer expects similar results for the PRO MB version.
• Skin elasticity – in a study with 30 women over 50 years of age, the manufacturer reports an improvement in skin elasticity compared with the baseline.

Use in formulations

The raw material is a thin white liquid that disperses in water. It is added to the water phase or to the cool-down phase, always at a temperature below 40 °C. The recommended usage rate is 0.5–5%. The manufacturer’s tests used concentrations of 1.5% and 5%.

The raw material contains approximately 2% active ingredients, so at a usage rate of 5% the finished product will contain about 0.1% of them. The raw material itself has a pH of 4.0–5.5.

Suitable for products such as

• Face creams for mature skin – O/W emulsions, in which the manufacturer also tested the raw material.
• Face serums – the raw material disperses in the water phase and can be stirred in cold.
• Creams to support the skin barrier – leave-on face products for dry skin that loses moisture.

Good to know

• The raw material is intended for leave-on face products.
• Check stability and compatibility with the other ingredients, for example electrolytes, acidic active ingredients or thickeners, by testing the finished formulation. This also applies to the pH of the finished product.

Frequently asked questions