Olivem 1000, 100 g

Olivem 1000 is an olive-derived emulsifier for making creams and lotions of the oil-in-water (O/W) type. It binds the water and oil phases into a stable emulsion and determines how the finished cream behaves on application. It handles formulations for the face, body, hair and lips, and is also suitable in products for sensitive and dry skin.

The base consists of fatty acid esters from olive oil. The emulsifier is non-ionic, of plant origin and carries the COSMOS Approved certification, making it suitable for natural cosmetics free of ethylene oxide, sulphates and fragrance allergens.

Key benefits

• Stand-alone O/W emulsifier – no need to combine multiple emulsifiers to make a cream or lotion. A co-emulsifier or thickener will further improve stability and consistency.
• Wide application – facial, body and hair care, lip balms, intimate hygiene and oral care, rinse-off and leave-on products.
• Wide pH range – works across pH 4.5 – 8.0, including more acidic formulations with AHA acids or lactic acid.
• Resistance to electrolytes and alcohol – tolerates salts, salt-containing extracts and a smaller proportion of ethanol without the emulsion breaking down.
• Compatibility – compatible with common preservation systems and fragrance.
• Plant origin and easy biodegradability – made from olive oil, it breaks down readily in the environment.

Use in formulation

Olivem 1000 comes in the form of waxy flakes and belongs to the oil phase. The flakes are added to the oils, butters and waxes, and the entire phase is heated to above 75 °C until everything has fully melted. The water phase is heated to the same temperature. Both phases are then combined with constant stirring, preferably the water phase into the oil phase, and the emulsion is stirred until cooled. It thickens during cooling and reaches its final consistency once fully cooled, often only the next day.

The recommended dosage is 0.5 – 5 %. For light lotions, the lower end of the range is sufficient; for creams with an oil phase of around 20 – 30 %, 3 – 5 % is commonly used. An HLB of 9 corresponds to an emulsifier for oil-in-water systems.

Heat-sensitive active ingredients, fragrance and preservatives are added only after the emulsion has cooled below 40 °C.

Suitable for products such as

• Face and body creams – including products for sensitive and dry skin.
• Body lotions – a lower dosage gives a light, easy-to-spread emulsion.
• Acidic-pH creams – formulations with AHA, PHA or lactic acid where other emulsifiers lose stability.
• Hair conditioners and masks – the non-ionic character is compatible with conditioning ingredients; suitable for both rinse-off and leave-on hair products.
• Hand creams, foot creams and lip balms – an emulsion base for richer textures with butters.
• Cream cleansers and intimate hygiene products – where a sulphate-free emulsifier is required for sensitive areas.

What is worth knowing when formulating

Temperature is critical. If the flakes do not dissolve completely or the phases are combined at a lower temperature, the emulsion may be grainy or separate over time. A thermometer in both the oil and water phase will save many failed attempts.

Whitening on application. With certain oil combinations, an emulsion containing Olivem 1000 may briefly turn white when rubbed in, similar to soap lather, and then absorb. This is helped by a co-emulsifier with lower polarity, such as cetyl alcohol or glyceryl stearate, and a smaller proportion of more polar esters in the oil phase.

Consistency develops over time. The emulsion immediately after cooling may not be final. Assess viscosity and stability after at least 24 hours, ideally after several days.

Preservation is essential. Olivem 1000 has no preservative effect. Every water-containing emulsion requires a preservation system suitable for the given pH.

It is not a solubiliser. It is not suitable for clarifying essential oils in tonics or sprays; for that purpose, solubilisers with a high HLB are used (for example Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate). Olivem 1000 produces opaque, white emulsions.

Comparison with a classic emulsifying wax

Standard emulsifying waxes based on PEG or polysorbates are generally less sensitive to process and produce thicker creams immediately after cooling. Olivem 1000, in turn, offers a formula free of ethylene oxide, COSMOS certification and a smooth texture typical of natural cosmetics. It does, however, require precise temperature control and usually a thickener as well. When switching from a classic wax, expect to rework the entire formulation — a simple gram-for-gram replacement is usually not sufficient.

Frequently asked questions