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To cleanse your skin and get rid of excess sebum, cleansing facial milks are excellent. You will also appreciate our facial milk after removing waterproof makeup to eliminate its residues and also the greasiness left after using oil-based makeup removers. Simply apply the facial milk to damp skin and then rinse thoroughly with water. This is a rinse-off product, which is not suitable to leave on the skin without rinsing.
To prepare the cleansing facial milk, you need to create a basic emulsion from water and oil. As a supplement, there are surfactants – degreasing and foaming agents that help cleanse the skin and free it from excess oiliness. Since the combination of an emulsion with surfactants is not always the most stable, we used four different preservatives to preserve this product in order to see which would handle this product best.
Below we bring you several tips and tricks on how to make the production of cleansing facial milk easier. You will learn more about correct pH adjustment and much more.When working with xanthan gum, it is good to first disperse it in glycerin, similarly to mica powder, to prevent clumping of these undispersed powder raw materials. Thanks to xanthan gum, the product will have a light, gel-like milky consistency, and at the same time this substance supports the stability of the final emulsion.When adjusting the pH, it is always necessary to proceed slowly and add lactic acid drop by drop, because the stated amount is only indicative. The amount of lactic acid depends on many factors, such as weighing and dosing accuracy, raw material quality and similar. After each addition of lactic acid, mix the mixture thoroughly and check the pH until you reach a value between 4.5–5.5. It is good to adjust the pH even when you use the preservative Euxyl PE 9010 or Spectrastat G2 (these preservatives are active even outside of acidic pH), since the skin tolerates better products whose pH is slightly acidic and close to the physiological pH of the skin.If you choose for preservation Cosgard, Euxyl K903 or Euxyl PE 9010, add the preservative only after the final pH adjustment to the cooled product. These preservatives are sensitive to higher temperatures. In contrast, Spectrastat G2 must be heated to approx. 45 °C before use and only then added to the emulsion. Ideally when the product has the same temperature (45 °C). pH adjustment in this case can be carried out even after the addition of the preservative, since this preservative is effective over a wide pH range.The mixture is fairly viscous and may have a slightly airy/whipped consistency after mixing with an immersion blender. Therefore, as packaging, it is suitable to choose a jar or bottles with a pump with a wider neck, so that you make it easier to fill the product into the packaging.
In the following lines, we will introduce you to the individual raw materials used to make the cleansing facial milk. You will learn more about their possible substitutions and ways to tailor the product to your needs.
The base of emulsions in cosmetics is usually demineralized or distilled water. Do not use ordinary tap water, even after boiling or filtering – minerals in it may disrupt the stability of the emulsion or the action of the preservative.Water in the cleansing facial milk can be replaced with floral hydrosols, which have gone through distillation and therefore do not contain mineral substances. Thanks to hydrosols, products can also acquire a pleasant floral scent, making additional fragrancing unnecessary.
Hydrosols are excellent additions to cleansing facial milks. Hydrosols provide the product not only with a delicate scent but also help to soothe the skin and reduce its redness. For this reason, witch hazel hydrosol is an excellent raw material for cleansing facial milk.Witch hazel hydrosol can be replaced with another hydrosol or with demineralized water. However, bear in mind that any substitution in the formula will result in a change in pH and thus also in the amount of lactic acid needed to adjust the pH.
To moisturize and soften the skin, it is good to have glycerin in the cleansing facial milk. This substance not only hydrates the skin but also helps accelerate gel formation and shortens the time needed to thoroughly disperse xanthan gum and mica powder. For this reason, it is good not to omit glycerin from the mixture. If you must do so, you can achieve similar moisturizing properties by using Sodium PCA.
To color the final product, there is nothing easier than choosing mica powder. Mica powders are available in a wide palette of colors, so everyone can choose. You can combine them with each other or add fine glitters or two-tone pigments (heavier glitters may settle to the bottom). Of course, it is also possible to omit mica powders completely; the product will have a white, milky color.
To thicken and stabilize the final emulsion, xanthan gum is used in this product. This substance forms thick gels with water already at low concentrations. Therefore, by changing its dosage, you can change the final viscosity of the product. If you want a more fluid product, reduce the xanthan gum content by 0.1–0.2%. For stronger thickening, you can increase its content, but only up to 1%; beyond that, the mixture is too stiff for comfortable application.Do not omit xanthan gum; without it, the product will not have the desired consistency, and problems with phase stability may occur. A possible alternative is guar gum, which thickens somewhat less than xanthan gum, so you will probably need to use a bit more to obtain the same viscosity. At the same time, we have not tested the stability of the cleansing facial milk with guar gum, and therefore we cannot guarantee that the emulsion will not break.
To create an emulsion, an emulsifier is necessary. In our case, Olivem 1000 was chosen for its ease of use and its good compatibility with a wide spectrum of substances. Do not omit the emulsifier; without it, the phases will not combine. If you have a problem with product stability, increase the share of the emulsifier by 0.5–1%. Conversely, a smaller share of Olivem 1000 will make the product more fluid (however, reduce the share of Olivem 1000 only after you have reduced the xanthan gum content and still have not achieved the desired result).An alternative to Olivem 1000 is Beautyderm K10.
To reduce the feeling of strong degreasing of the skin after cleansing, almond oil was also added to the facial milk. This oil is affordable and is well absorbed by the skin. In addition, it has no pronounced color or scent that would interfere with the final product. When substituting this raw material, you can choose another liquid vegetable oil or a combination of oils. By increasing the oil share, you will obtain a facial milk that will degrease less and treat and hydrate the skin more.
To degrease the skin and cleanse it, it is necessary to add surfactants to the product. It is ideal to work with liquid surfactants, because this avoids their lengthy dissolution in water. A great choice is the combination of decyl glucoside, which gently degreases and forms a rich foam, with Proteol Apple, which also degreases the skin but forms a somewhat creamier, less intense foam.It is ideal not to replace surfactants, but if you must do so, make sure not to combine surfactants of opposite charge (cationic with anionic), as this will form a precipitate. Also observe the dosage specified for each raw material; a too high final concentration of active substances in the surfactants (surfactants are not sold as 100% solutions but slightly diluted) can cause skin irritation due to excessive degreasing.If you use glucosides with alkaline pH, always check the pH of the final product and adjust it to the acidic range (4.5 to 5.5).
The essential oil that brings a fresh scent is Eucalyptus radiata. Of course, you can also choose another essential oil for the product. Before using it, however, check the dosage for rinse-off facial products, for example according to the IFRA standards specified for the product.An alternative to essential oils is fragrance oils, which offer an even wider range of scents than essential oils, since your product can thus smell like many kinds of fruit. Again, observe the dosage. To make an unfragranced product, simply omit the addition of essential oil.
Lactic acid was chosen for pH adjustment. This is an acid sold already in solution form, so you do not have to prepare the solution yourself. An alternative is citric acid, but this must first be dissolved in water, for example preparing a 50% citric acid solution, which you then use to adjust the pH. Instructions on how to correctly adjust the pH can be found in the working procedure and in the Tips and tricks section.
Since some preservatives tend under certain conditions also to disrupt the stability of the emulsion, especially when we add surfactants to a classic oil-in-water emulsion, we prepared four batches of cleansing facial milk, each differing only in the type of preservative used. Immediately after preparation and during the first week, we did not observe any phase separation with any of the preservatives used. The increased stability is probably due to the higher content of xanthan gum, which helps not only to thicken but also to keep the components of the emulsion together. After a month, the phases were still combined for all preservatives, but we observed with the cleansing facial milk containing Cosgard and Euxyl PE 9010 a slight settling of the product (part of the airy/whipped consistency achieved by mixing with an immersion blender was lost, but this does not diminish the functionality of the product).
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade formulas to achieve the desired properties. The final result can, however, be influenced by many factors, such as humidity, temperature, quality of raw materials or their storage. Before you use any raw material to make a cosmetic product, familiarize yourself with its properties, the recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling. Each raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using the product we recommend that you find out whether you are allergic to any of the raw materials or to the finished product, for example with a patch test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or you have other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to the skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
After removing makeup, it is necessary to cleanse the skin also from impurities from the air that have settled on the skin during the day. They could clog pores and become inflamed. Therefore, after makeup removal, also use our cleansing facial milk and give your skin basic care.In case of questions, contact us and write to us at marketing@handymade.skWe thank the wonderful Ivana Jačalová for this extensive contribution with instructions and necessary tips.
Until we meet again with the next tutorial, have a creative day.
