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To cleanse your skin and get rid of excess sebum, cleansing facial milks are an excellent choice. You will also appreciate our facial milk after removing waterproof makeup, to remove its residues as well as greasiness after using oil-based makeup removers. Simply apply the facial milk to damp skin and then rinse thoroughly with water. This is a rinse-off product that is not suitable to leave on the skin without rinsing.
To prepare the cleansing facial milk, you need to create a basic emulsion from water and oil. It is complemented with surfactants – degreasing and foaming substances that help cleanse the skin and rid it of excess oiliness. Since the combination of an emulsion with surfactants is not always the most stable, we used four different preservatives to preserve this product, in order to see which ones cope best with this formulation.
Below we bring you several tips and tricks to make it easier to produce cleansing facial milk. You will learn more about proper pH adjustment and much more.When working with xanthan gum, it is good to first disperse it in glycerin, similarly to mica powder, to prevent the formation of lumps of these undispersed powdered raw materials. Thanks to xanthan gum, the product will have a light, gel-milk-like consistency and at the same time this substance supports the stability of the final emulsion.When adjusting the pH, it is always necessary to proceed slowly and add lactic acid dropwise, because the stated amount is only indicative. The amount of lactic acid depends on many factors, such as weighing and dosing accuracy, raw material quality and similar. After each addition of lactic acid, mix the blend thoroughly and check the pH until you reach a value between 4.5–5.5. It is good to adjust the pH even when you use the preservatives Euxyl PE 9010 or Spectrastat G2 (these preservatives are active even outside the acidic pH range), because the skin tolerates better those products whose pH is slightly acidic and close to the physiological pH of the skin.If you choose for preservation Cosgard, Euxyl K903 or Euxyl PE 9010, add the preservative only after the final pH adjustment into the cooled product. These preservatives are sensitive to higher temperatures. Conversely, Spectrastat G2 must be heated to approx. 45 °C before use and only then added to the emulsion. Ideally when the product has the same temperature (45 °C). In this case, pH adjustment can be carried out even after the addition of the preservative, because this preservative is effective over a wide pH range.The blend is quite viscous and may have a slightly airy/whipped consistency after mixing with the immersion blender. Therefore, it is suitable to choose a jar or bottles with a pump with a wider neck as the packaging, to make it easier to fill the product into the container.
In the following lines we will introduce the individual raw materials used to produce the cleansing facial milk. You will learn more about their possible substitutions or ways to tailor the product.
The basis of emulsions in cosmetics is usually demineralised or distilled water. Do not use ordinary tap water, not even after boiling or filtering – minerals in it may affect the stability of the emulsion or the performance of the preservative.The water in the cleansing facial milk can be replaced with flower hydrosols that have undergone distillation and thus do not contain mineral substances. Thanks to hydrosols, products can also obtain a pleasant floral scent, so further perfuming is not necessary.
Hydrosols are a great addition to cleansing facial milks. Hydrosols give the product not only a gentle scent, but also help soothe the skin and reduce its redness. This is why witch hazel hydrosol is an excellent raw material for cleansing facial milk.Witch hazel hydrosol can be replaced also with another hydrosol or with demineralised water. However, bear in mind that any substitution in the formula will also result in a change of pH and thus the required amount of lactic acid for pH adjustment.
To moisturise and soften the skin it is good to include glycerin in the cleansing facial milk. This substance not only hydrates the skin but also helps to speed up gel formation and shortens the time needed for proper dispersion of xanthan gum and mica powder. For this reason, it is good not to omit glycerin from the blend. If you have to leave it out, you can obtain similar moisturising properties by using Sodium PCA.
For colouring the final product, there is nothing simpler than choosing a mica powder. Mica powders are available in a wide range of colours, so everyone can find a suitable one. You can combine them with each other or add fine glitters or two-tone pigments (heavier glitters may settle to the bottom). Of course, it is also possible to omit mica powders entirely; the product will then have a white, milky colour.
To thicken and stabilise the final emulsion, this product uses xanthan gum. This substance forms thick gels with water even at low concentrations. For this reason, you can change the final viscosity of the product by adjusting its dosage. If you want a more fluid product, reduce the xanthan gum content by 0.1–0.2 %. For stronger thickening, you can increase its content, but only up to 1 %, above which the blend becomes too stiff for comfortable application.Do not omit xanthan gum, as the product will not have the desired consistency without it and phase stability problems may occur. A possible alternative is guar gum, which, however, thickens somewhat less than xanthan gum, so you will probably need to use slightly more to achieve the same viscosity. At the same time, we have not tested the stability of the cleansing facial milk with guar gum, so we cannot guarantee that the emulsion will not separate.
To create an emulsion, an emulsifier is necessary. In our case, Olivem 1000 was chosen for its ease of use and good compatibility with a wide range of substances. Do not leave out the emulsifier; otherwise the phases will not combine. If you have problems with the stability of the product, increase the proportion of the emulsifier by 0.5–1 %. Conversely, a lower proportion of Olivem 1000 will make the product more fluid (however, only reduce the proportion of Olivem 1000 after you have reduced the xanthan gum content and still have not achieved the desired result).An alternative to Olivem 1000 is Beautyderm K10.
To reduce the feeling of strong degreasing of the skin after cleansing, almond oil has been added to the facial milk. This oil is affordable and is well absorbed by the skin. It also does not have a pronounced colour or scent that would interfere with the final product. When replacing this raw material, you can choose another liquid vegetable oil or a combination of oils. By increasing the proportion of oil, you will obtain a facial milk that will degrease less and care for and hydrate the skin more.
To degrease the skin and cleanse it, it is necessary to add surfactants to the product. It is ideal to work with liquid surfactants, as this avoids their lengthy dissolution in water. A great choice is the combination of decyl glucoside, which gently degreases and forms a rich foam, with Proteol Apple, which also degreases the skin but forms a somewhat creamier, less pronounced foam.Ideally, you should not substitute surfactants, but if you must, ensure that you do not combine surfactants of opposite charge (cationic with anionic), as this will result in precipitation. Also observe the dosage specified for each raw material; too high a final concentration of active substances in the surfactants (surfactants are not sold as 100% solutions, but somewhat diluted) may cause skin irritation due to excessive degreasing.If you use glucosides with an alkaline pH, always check the pH of the final product and adjust it to the acidic range (between 4.5 and 5.5).
The essential oil that brings a fresh scent is Eucalyptus radiata. Of course, you can choose another essential oil for the product. Before using it, however, check the dosage for rinse-off facial products, for example according to the IFRA standards specified for the product.An alternative to essential oils is represented by fragrance oils, which offer an even broader range of scents than essential oils, as your product can thus smell of many kinds of fruit. Again, adhere to the dosage. For production of an unscented product, simply omit the addition of essential oil.
Lactic acid was chosen for pH adjustment. This is an acid already sold in solution form, so you do not need to prepare a solution yourself. An alternative is citric acid, but this must first be dissolved in water, for example by preparing a 50% citric acid solution, which you will then use for pH adjustment. Instructions for proper pH adjustment can be found in the working procedure and in the Tips and tricks section.
Since some preservatives, under certain conditions, also tend to affect the stability of the emulsion, especially when we add surfactants to a classic oil-in-water emulsion, we prepared four batches of cleansing facial milk, each differing only in the type of preservative used. Immediately after preparation and also during the first week, we did not observe any phase separation with any of the preservatives used. The increased stability is probably due to the higher xanthan gum content, which not only thickens but also helps hold the components of the emulsion together. After a month, the phases were still combined with all preservatives, but we observed with the cleansing facial milk containing Cosgard and Euxyl PE 9010 a slight settling of the product (part of the airy/whipped consistency obtained by mixing with the immersion blender disappeared, which, however, does not reduce the functionality of the product).
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade recipes to achieve the desired properties. However, the final result can be influenced by many factors, such as humidity, temperature, raw material quality or storage conditions. Before using any raw material to produce a cosmetic product, familiarise yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling requirements. Each raw material may have the potential to trigger an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using the product we recommend determining whether you are not allergic to any of the raw materials or the overall product, for example with a patch test. If you have very sensitive or highly acne-prone skin, or if you have other skin or health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
After removing makeup, it is necessary to cleanse the skin also from impurities from the air that have settled on the skin during the day. They could clog pores and become inflamed. Therefore, after removing makeup, also use our cleansing facial milk and give your skin basic care.In case of questions, contact us and write to us at marketing@handymade.skWe thank the wonderful Ivana Jačalová for this extensive contribution with instructions and necessary tips.
Until we meet again with another tutorial, have a creative day.Until soaping up, friends.
