Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, GSC, 100 g

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate GSC

Glyceryl stearate citrate is an anionic O/W emulsifier of natural origin that binds the oil and water phases into creams and lotions with a stable, creamy texture. In formulation, it acts as the primary emulsifier without PEG and without ethylene oxide, making it a popular choice in more naturally oriented formulations and in cosmetics for sensitive and children's skin.

Emulsions with this emulsifier are suitable for both face and body, in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

Key properties

• Emulsifier for O/W emulsions – creates oil-in-water emulsions, i.e. lighter creams and lotions that can be rinsed off with water.
• Anionic character – when combined with cationic ingredients, emulsion stability should be verified in advance.
• PEG-free and palm oil-free – suitable for formulations where ethoxylated emulsifiers and palm derivatives are excluded.
• Readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 test.
• Not classified as hazardous under CLP regulation; a safety data sheet is not required for it.

Use in formulation

The emulsifier is added to the oil phase, where it melts upon heating together with oils, butters, and consistency agents. It does not dissolve in water; it is dispersible in oil. The recommended processing temperature is 75 – 80 °C. Both phases are heated to the same temperature and then combined with constant stirring. After combining, the emulsion is stirred and cooled; heat-sensitive actives are added only after cooling.

The recommended usage level is 1.5 – 3.5 % depending on the amount of the oil phase and the desired consistency. Lower doses are sufficient for light lotions; higher doses are needed for richer creams with a larger oil phase.

The emulsifier works in the range of pH 5.0 – 8.0, which corresponds to standard facial and body preparations. With significantly more acidic formulations, such as those with a higher proportion of AHA acids, it is advisable to verify stability.

It combines well with nonionic emulsifiers such as mono- and diglycerides, polyglycerol esters, or ethoxylated fatty alcohols. The manufacturer states that such combinations can produce liquid crystals, which contribute to emulsion stability.

Suitable for products such as

• Facial creams and lotions for both day and night care.
• Body lotions and creams with a lighter texture.
• Creams for children and sensitive skin where PEG-free emulsifiers are preferred.
• Sun care and after-sun preparations, which the manufacturer lists among typical applications.
• Rinse-off emulsions, such as creamy cleansing milks, and wet cosmetic wipes.

Good to know

The anionic emulsifier is not compatible with cationic ingredients, such as conditioning quaternary compounds. If the formulation contains them, verify emulsion stability with a test batch.

The manufacturer states that a suitable polymeric stabilizer in the water phase can improve the freeze resistance of the emulsion.

Frequently asked questions