Glycolic Acid 70%, 1 l

Glycolic acid 70% is an alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) used in cosmetics mainly for exfoliation: it helps loosen and remove dead cells from the surface of the skin. It is supplied as a concentrate intended for further processing and is added to the formulation in amounts of a few percent.

Its second use is as a pH regulator. In the amount needed to reach the target value, it lowers the pH of a toner, gel or emulsion. The raw material is synthetic, of European origin and of cosmetic grade.

Functions and effects

• Exfoliation – peeling away dead cells from the surface of the skin, in both rinse-off and leave-on products.
• pH adjustment – the acid lowers the pH of the water phase, so it is also used to fine-tune the pH of formulations in which exfoliation is not the goal.
• Skin types and areas of use – oily, combination and normal skin, acne-prone skin and mature skin. Besides the face, it is used in products for the body, hands and feet.
• Purity – clear colourless liquid. The formation of methoxyacetic acid is not expected with the manufacturing process and raw materials used, and analyses by external accredited laboratories did not detect it in the product (detection limit 3 mg/kg).
• Biodegradability – the substance is readily biodegradable according to OECD 301.

Use in formulations

The recommended usage rate is 1–10%. The raw material contains 70.0–72.0% of total acid expressed as glycolic acid, so calculate the amount you add based on the pure acid content.

In toners, serums and gels, it is added cold directly into the water phase. In emulsions, it is mixed in only during the cool-down phase, when the temperature drops below 40 °C.

After incorporation, measure the pH and adjust it as needed with a suitable regulator. Set the target pH according to the type of product and check it by measurement in every batch.

Suitable for products such as

• Exfoliating toners and water-based serums – the acid is mixed with water cold, without heating.
• Gels – added to the water phase. Check the behaviour of the thickener at low pH on a sample.
• Creams and body lotions – into the finished emulsion during the cool-down phase.
• Rinse-off masks and cleansing gels – the acid is in contact with the skin for a shorter time than in leave-on products.
• Hand and foot products – exfoliation of the skin of the hands and feet.

Good to know

The acid lowers the pH of the whole formulation. Check how your chosen thickener and emulsifier behave at this pH on a small test batch, and run a stability test on the finished product.

The raw material does not contain preservatives, and preservation is not one of its functions. Products containing water are therefore preserved as usual.

It is not suitable for anhydrous oil blends, balms and butters, because it does not dissolve in oil.

Frequently asked questions