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The caring effects of hops have long been sought after especially in hair care cosmetics. We have prepared for you instructions for a strengthening hair conditioner containing hop CO2 extract. Make a nourishing conditioner that treats the hair and helps reduce frizz thanks to the content of BTMS.
For the production of the hop conditioner a cationic surfactant was used, which thanks to this charge is perfectly suited for hair care cosmetics. It is BTMS and this substance not only conditions the hair but also thickens the product, so you can make the conditioner in a consistency similar to the one you are used to from commercially available products.
Make the production of hop conditioner easier with our tips and tricks!During heating it is important that phase B is fully dissolved, otherwise there will be lumps of undissolved raw materials in the final product. At the same time, before combining phases A and B, check that they have almost the same temperature around 70 °C, otherwise it may happen that the raw materials do not combine well and the individual phases separate.Do not forget to cover the containers – in this way you will prevent water loss from phase A or premature ingress of water into phase B. If you want to be extra thorough, you can weigh phase A before heating, record this number and then after heating top up the missing evaporated water. However, count with the fact that many scales do not like having hot objects placed directly on them, so support the container with a plate or other support when weighing after heating. Also in this case heat phase A to about 5 °C higher than phase B so that the temperature of phase A does not drop too low while you are weighing and topping up the evaporated water. Start mixing while the container is still in the water bath; this will prevent the BTMS from solidifying before it is thoroughly mixed with the other raw materials. Since the final product has a thicker consistency than a usual cream or body lotion, do not use a milk frother for mixing. Standard battery-powered milk frothers do not have enough power to combine thicker mixtures such as our hop conditioner. Rely on a classic stick blender; an ordinary blending attachment is sufficient.For storage, bottles with a pump are suitable so that you can dispense the product easily. You can also use jars or shampoo bottles, but with jars the disadvantage is that you scoop out the product with your hands and thus introduce unnecessary contamination into the remaining product.
Below we will introduce the individual raw materials used for the production of the hop conditioner. You will also learn more about their possible substitutes or changes in their proportions, thanks to which you can create a product tailored exactly to your needs.
Already from the list of raw materials and their percentage it is clearly visible that demineralised water is the most dominant raw material in the product. For production, demineralised or distilled water is used because this liquid is free of minerals, and thus these substances will not disrupt the stability of the product or the efficacy of active substances.However, demineralised water is not the only raw material you can use. There is a wide range of hydrolats or floral waters available, which are also produced by distillation and therefore do not contain minerals but rather volatile substances from the plants from whose aqueous mixtures they were distilled. Thanks to this, they bring caring substances and also a natural fragrance into the products.Try replacing part of the demineralised water or all of it with your favourite hydrolat, or combine several hydrolats according to your preferences.
The main humectant for the conditioner is glycerine. It is a common component of many cosmetic products. Glycerine is a clear, syrupy liquid that dissolves well in water and can withstand heating. It is possible to omit it from the recipe and replace it with water, but you will lose its conditioning and softening properties.
BTMS is one of the most commonly used conditioners in hair care cosmetics. This substance is sold in the form of white pellets or flakes of a waxy character and melts upon heating similarly to classic waxes or vegetable butters.In addition to its conditioning properties, BTMS has a positive charge – it is a cationic conditioner and thus helps to neutralise the negative charge present on the hair and thereby reduces frizz. At the same time, it is an emulsifier and thickener and therefore enables the combination of aqueous and oily raw materials and is primarily responsible for the resulting consistency.By increasing the BTMS content in the recipe at the expense of water you achieve an even thicker and denser product, whereas reducing the BTMS content results in a more liquid product. If you increase the BTMS content too much, you can obtain a solid mass – this is also why BTMS is the basis of solid conditioners.
The substitute for oils and vegetable butters in this recipe is the vegetable petroleum jelly Vegeline. Its advantage is that it already directly combines vegetable oils and waxes and can therefore be used as a full-value substitute for these raw materials. In addition, the dense consistency of this vegetable petroleum jelly also contributes to the overall viscosity of the product, so any change in the proportion of Vegeline will be reflected in a change in product consistency (although to a lesser extent than in the case of BTMS).If you feel that the hop conditioner is not nourishing enough and your hair is still dry, increase the Vegeline content in the recipe. Conversely, if you want a less greasy product, reduce the Vegeline content by about 1 %. Vegeline can of course be replaced with vegetable oils and butters, but again you should expect a change in consistency. There is no need to be afraid of this vegetable petroleum jelly; unlike classic petroleum jellies it is of purely vegetable origin and does not contain paraffin, mineral oils or other components derived from petroleum.
Our hair consists to a large extent of keratin, so it is advisable to occasionally supplement this substance in the form of conditioners or hair masks. Keratin is a brownish liquid with a characteristic smell, which usually does not disturb the overall scent of the product, as keratin is used in relatively low doses. It is a protein-type substance that can strengthen the hair and provide it with the necessary nourishment. Keratin can be omitted from the recipe and replaced with water or other active substances intended for hair products (check in advance whether the substance in question is compatible with the other raw materials, especially in terms of pH and charge).
Extraction using CO2 in the supercritical state is a new method for obtaining non-polar substances (mainly oily) from plant materials. It is a very gentle method with respect to active substances, therefore these extracts are very effective already in small doses and retain many of the properties of the original plant.Hop CO2 extract is a dark green thick liquid, which, thanks to its colour, gives the product a slightly green tinge, so no additional colourants are necessary. At the same time this extract has a characteristic slightly bitter herbal scent. If you wish and the scent of hops does not suit you, this scent can be masked with essential oils or fragrance oils.The CO2 extract can be omitted from the product or replaced with another CO2 extract, but in doing so you will lose all the active substances that hops could provide to your hair.
The preservative is essential for the hop conditioner since more than 80 % of its content is water, due to which the product can be attacked by micro-organisms such as bacteria or mould. Thanks to the use of a preservative you can enjoy your product for longer than just a few days, as would be the case with an unpreserved product.Euxyl PE 9010 is great in that it is active over a wide pH range and is thus suitable even for beginners. You can replace it with another broad-spectrum preservative. However, keep in mind that some preservatives are effective only within a specific pH range; for example, Cosgard works best below pH 5.5, and therefore it will probably be necessary to adjust the pH of the final product.Since we did not lower the pH in our product, we cannot guarantee the stability of the emulsion even at pH below 5.5.
As mentioned, you can experiment with home-made formulations to achieve the desired properties. However, the final result can be influenced by many factors, such as humidity, temperature, quality of raw materials or their storage. Before you use any raw material for the production of a cosmetic product, familiarise yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling. Each raw material may have the potential to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, therefore before using the product we recommend finding out whether you are not allergic to any of the raw materials or to the overall product, e.g. by means of a skin test. If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or if you have other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to the skin, whether it is a home-made cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
The instructions for making the hop hair conditioner were prepared for you by Ivana Jačalová. We thank her very much for the extensive guides she always prepares for us.
If you have any questions or advice or experiences that could help others when making the hop conditioner, be sure to write to us at marketing@handymade.sk and we will be happy to answer and add the knowledge to the instructions.
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