Hyaluronic acid is popular. Do you know everything about it?

Hyaluronic acid is currently a very popular raw material that you will find in many types of cosmetic products. It is a carbohydrate that also occurs naturally in our body. We can find it primarily in the skin, but also in cartilage, joints and eyes.


In cosmetics, hyaluronic acid is used as a humectant and as a gelling agent. It is able to bind moisture from the surroundings, up to a thousand times its own weight. Thanks to this, hyaluronic acid helps to capture and retain water in the skin and reduce transepidermal water loss.

HYALURONIC ACID IN OUR BODY

Hyaluronic acid occurs naturally in the human body, but with age the production of hyaluronic acid in the skin decreases. This can lead to dehydration of the skin, worsening of wrinkles, a change in skin texture and so on. However, the application of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic products helps to increase skin hydration and reduce the feeling of skin dryness.

HYALURONIC ACID AND ITS ORIGIN

If you are wondering where hyaluronic acid is obtained from, the answer is microbial fermentation. It has long since ceased to be true that hyaluronic acid is produced from animal tissues. Thanks to microbial fermentation, it can be obtained in high quality and purity and is also available in different ranges of molecular weights.

HYALURONIC ACID AND ITS BENEFITS FOR THE SKIN

Why choose hyaluronic acid for the production of facial products? Here are several benefits that hyaluronic acid can have for your skin as well!

•    Serums with hyaluronic acid stimulate the regeneration of skin cells, their metabolism and the healing of skin injuries.
•    Hyaluronic acid improves the appearance and texture of the skin, it can add volume and softness.
•    Helps in the prevention of dry areas on the skin and skin tightness as a result of poor skin hydration.
•    Provides hydration to deeper parts of the skin in the case of low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid.
•    Improves the appearance of wrinkles and sagging skin.
•    Helps to improve the natural protective barriers of the skin against polluted environment or UV radiation.
•    An alternative to oil-based products for oily and acne-prone skin.
•    In combination with vitamins, for example vitamin C and E, it helps to reduce redness and signs of skin irritation.

HYALURONIC ACID – WHICH ONE TO CHOOSE?

There are several variants of hyaluronic acid available on the market, most often four basic types: high (HMW), medium (MMW), low (LMW) and ultra low molecular weight (ULMW) hyaluronic acid.


In general, the properties of hyaluronic acid derive from its size, i.e. from the weight of its molecules.
As molecular weight decreases, the ability of hyaluronic acid to form highly viscous gels decreases. Therefore, if you like gel-type serums where no other gelling agent besides hyaluronic acid is used, you should definitely choose HMW hyaluronic acid.


However, the smaller the hyaluronic acid molecule is, the deeper it penetrates into the skin, and thus ULMW hyaluronic acid penetrates deepest of all types and helps to hydrate the skin not only on the surface.


However, in your product you do not have to limit yourself to only one type of hyaluronic acid. If you want to combine the gelling properties of HMW acid with the deep hydration of ULMW or LMW hyaluronic acid, combine both types of hyaluronic acid in one product.

•   High molecular weight hyaluronic acid HMW – molecular weight 1.5-2 MDa, moisturises the skin, forms viscous gels, provides a protective hydrating barrier on the skin surface.

•   Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid MMW – molecular weight 1-1.5 MDa, provides longer-lasting hydration, occurs in the connective tissue of the skin, still forms relatively viscous gels, but penetrates deeper into the skin than HMW.

•   Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid LMW – molecular weight 10-250 kDa, in cosmetic products you will also find it under the designation Sodium Hyaluronate, provides long-lasting hydration, has good stability, is also found in the connective tissue of the skin, its smoothing effect on wrinkles and skin lasts longer than that of HMW and MMW.

•    Ultra low molecular weight hyaluronic acid ULMW – molecular weight ˂10 kDa, also penetrates into the deep layers of the skin, hydrates and regenerates the skin.

PRODUCTION OF COSMETICS WITH HYALURONIC ACID

Before you start producing your own serum or cream containing hyaluronic acid, here is an overview of the basic properties of this substance. In addition, you will learn more about stability and tricks
and tips when working with hyaluronic acid.

HYALURONIC ACID AND SOLUBILITY

Hyaluronic acid is soluble in water, so it can be used in all products that contain an aqueous phase. As it forms a gel in water, its complete dissolution is not the fastest. For this reason, it is ideal to first mix hyaluronic acid with glycerine and only then add water or hydrolate. In this way, the acid hydrates more quickly and lumps of non-hydrated acid disappear from the product sooner.


Since hyaluronic acid forms a gel, it can be used on its own to thicken serums. However, if you want to use a smaller amount of hyaluronic acid or a type with a lower molecular weight, it will be necessary to add another thickener to achieve the desired viscosity in the serum. Try, for example, guar gum; you can also use xanthan gum, but this can leave a slightly sticky, soapy feeling on the skin after applying the product.

HYALURONIC ACID AND STABILITY

Hyaluronic acid is a relatively stable substance. It tolerates even short 20–30 minute heating in a water bath during the preparation of emulsions, i.e. creams. With prolonged heating, it can degrade. For storage, keep the dry form of hyaluronic acid as a powder away from sources of moisture, heat and direct sunlight.


Hyaluronic acid provides solutions with a pH of 6.5–7. However, you can also use hyaluronic acid in products where the pH is lower. In products containing hyaluronic acid, always use a preservative, as such a product will inevitably contain water.

HYALURONIC ACID – APPEARANCE, ODOUR, PROPERTIES

Hyaluronic acid is sold in dry form, as a fine white powder. Solutions of hyaluronic acid are without any pronounced odour or fragrance. Its gels spread very well on the skin, are absorbed quickly and leave the skin moist and hydrated without a sticky feeling after application.

HYALURONIC ACID – PACKAGING

Because hyaluronic acid thickens products, not all packaging is suitable for products containing it. For serums, it is worth choosing glass bottles with a dropper or with a pump. Glass is also easy to clean and disinfect (do not forget to always disinfect the packaging before filling it with the product, for example with ethanol).


For creams, you can choose jars, but your product will have a shorter shelf life because
with each use you introduce microorganisms into the rest of the product by scooping it out with your fingers. As an alternative, you can again use bottles with a pump or tubes.


A way to reduce product contamination and oxidation and to extend shelf life is to use airless bottles. These are bottles with a pump that dispense the cream or serum thanks to the creation of a vacuum in the bottle. The product
in the packaging thus does not come into contact with air or your skin.

HYALURONIC ACID – CONCLUSION

Do you use hyaluronic acid? If not, you should start. We cannot even sufficiently stress how important it is for our skin.

If you have experience with it and have some tips and tricks with which we could enrich our posts, feel free to write to us at marketing@handymade.sk. We will be happy to reply to all messages.

See you “till soaping”, in our next post.