Vitamins in cosmetics | Article

Vitamins can also be used in cosmetic products.

In the winter period, our body demands vitamin doses more than ever, which are not available in their natural form as in other periods.

VITAMIN C

Vitamin C, or L‑ascorbic acid, is one of the vitamins that a human being cannot synthesize in the body, and therefore it is necessary to supply it to the organism either in its natural form (fruit and vegetables that contain it), or also in the well‑known tablet or powder form. In this case, this is nutrition from within. A lack of vitamin C also manifests itself on our skin, and in case of its deficiency it is possible to supplement it also from the outside, in the form of skin‑nourishing products.

Vitamin C is essential especially in the following layers of the skin:

Epidermis – this is the external and in fact the top layer of our skin – here we find melanocytes, which are responsible for the formation of the pigment melanin in our skin.

Dermis – this is the deeper layer of the skin located under the epidermis – here we find fibroblasts, which are responsible for the production of collagen.

What can cause a loss or reduction of the level of vitamin C precisely in these skin layers?

Ageing – a process that none of us can fairly avoid, but it is equally up to us whether we accelerate this process by an improper lifestyle or significantly slow it down by a healthy way of living and a more responsible lifestyle.

Excessive exposure to UV radiation – a lot has already been written about excessive sunbathing and its drawbacks. If you do not want to deprive yourself in the summer of the touch of hot sun rays and a bronze appearance, at least sufficient protection against UV rays is important.

Excessive exposure to pollutants, which include especially cigarette smoke and ozone.

How does vitamin C work in the skin then?

As an antioxidant

Free radicals can damage various vital molecules in the body, such as proteins, lipids, and nucleic acids (such as DNA and RNA). They can enter the skin precisely through its disruption by toxins and pollutants, but also when the skin is excessively exposed to UV radiation, when disruption also occurs. However, they are also generated through our internal metabolism, especially with increasing age, when their production increases, while natural defence mechanisms lose strength.

Vitamin C acts in the organism in two ways:

- it scavenges free radicals by providing electrons to the organism that destroy them

- it maintains the level of alpha‑tocopherol (vitamin E), which acts precisely against free radicals

As collagen support

Collagen is a protein in our body responsible for beautiful, fresh, elastic, and smooth skin. Its production decreases with age, and the result is especially less elastic skin and wrinkles – probably the most frequent manifestation of ageing skin.

Vitamin C helps to keep collagen molecules “together”, which in practice is reflected in rejuvenated, fresher skin.

As protection

Vitamin C cannot be used as a sunscreen cream, but thanks to the properties mentioned above, it can help you limit damage to your skin caused by ultraviolet light. In fact, the most effective combination for skin areas damaged in this way is a blend of vitamins C and E.

As a depigmenting agent

Pigment melanin is formed in the epidermis, which causes the colouring of the skin. In the desired state, this is manifested after the tanning process in the form of beautiful bronze skin. However, with age, so‑called age spots appear on our body, and degeneration of the skin also manifests itself at a younger age in the form of various pigment spots.

Topically applied vitamin C has exactly the cosmetic effect that spots disappear and the skin is brightened. It naturally influences the fading of hyperpigmented areas, but does not interfere where the skin is normally pigmented (as skin‑bleaching products would do).

How to use / deliver it in practice into our cosmetic products?

In nature, vitamin C is found only in fruit and vegetables. Cutting a lemon or red pepper into a cream is probably not the most suitable form, is it? In cosmetics, unfortunately, a 100% natural form does not exist.

In formulations, the most commonly used are L‑ascorbic acid (LAA) or vitamin C stabilised with ascorbyl palmitate, which represent a chemically and synthetically active form of vitamin C.

In nature, vitamin C occurs in the same portions as LAA. Both of these substances have the same molecular formula, but they have a different chemical structure (the atoms are, for example, linked to each other differently).

L‑ascorbic acid is the most effective form of vitamin C on the market that you can use in your products (it is water‑soluble). However, it is necessary to point out the need for caution when using it in home conditions (professionals have this treated in their formulations), because as such it is very unstable, and its incorrect use could cause you more problems than benefits. It is therefore necessary to use this form in combination with vitamin E, which keeps stability within the normal range.

Other forms of vitamin C also occur on the market – so‑called vitamin C derivatives – these are actually added compounds that help prevent degradation of vitamin C and are not dependent on pH, which is basically their main advantage, because in terms of nutrition they are less effective than pure L‑ascorbic acid. You can find them in various forms, for example ascorbyl palmitate or magnesium ascorbyl palmitate.

In our range, you can find vitamin C in powder form as well as in liquid form.

VITAMIN E

As vitamins in cosmetics are already being discussed, we certainly cannot omit vitamin E.

This liquid miracle has earned the attribute skin vitamin (“skin vitamin”) – of all vitamins, it is the best known and most used for maintaining skin health and strengthening immunity.

We often mistakenly think that it is one specific vitamin, but in fact it is formed by a group of several fat‑soluble antioxidant vitamins called tocopherols (for interest: naturally occurring vitamin E exists in as many as eight chemical forms, namely alpha‑, beta‑, gamma‑ and delta‑tocopherol and alpha‑, beta‑, gamma‑ and delta‑tocotrienol, although most vitamin E products on sale are not composed of a mixture of all these forms).

In our range, you can find three types, namely:

70% tocopherol

96% tocopherol

tocopheryl acetate

Given that in its natural form it is contained in a fairly large number of foods from which carrier oils can be produced, it is possible to supplement vitamin E in your products also in this form (since the recommended dosage of concentrated vitamin E is from 0.2% to 3%).

It is present in quite a decent amount, for example, in almond, apricot kernel, olive, babassu oil, linseed oil, wheat germ oil, or poppy seed oil.

Just as vitamin C acts against free radicals, vitamin E is also effective, but its greatest effect has been shown especially in the structure and regeneration of skin and hair (it has an excellent ability to heal scars, burns, and wounds). And as the main fat‑soluble antioxidant in the human body, vitamin E is known for supplying nutrition to the skin and strengthening immunity.

Where and how then to use vitamin E?

Topically, as a medicinal agent, it is used for nourishment. Its pronounced ability to hydrate and nourish will help you especially to soothe sensitive and damaged skin, which is usually dry skin affected by itching, flaking, inflammation, blisters, or various degenerative skin conditions such as dermatitis, mild psoriasis, and eczema. Thanks to vitamin E you can thus avoid taking aggressive prescription medicines when treating various skin conditions. Its effects have also been recorded in cases of sunburn, better wound healing, and a reduced incidence of scars.

In cosmetic preparations, the pronounced moisturising ability of vitamin E is used (with regular use) precisely to prevent the formation of wrinkles (or at least minimise them) or skin sagging, thus supporting a youthful and radiant appearance of your complexion. It works best at night, so it is ideal to apply it in a night cream, or if you do not have a cream containing vitamin E, simply drip 2–3 drops into the blend you use on your face and that’s it.

Caring for dry skin applies not only to the face but also to the whole body. Full‑body rinse‑off treatments are an excellent choice, or you can use the vitamin in baths.

Just as vitamin E acts on the skin, it also acts on the hair and scalp. It increases circulation in the scalp, which improves hair strength and overall hair health, thanks to which your hair will be silky, smoother, and shinier, and if you have noticed more significant hair loss, it can help you also in this regard. Again, it is enough to drip 2–3 drops of vitamin E into your shampoo and apply. Over time (usually within one to three months), your hair will reward you with a healthier appearance. If you want to give your hair even more nourishment, use a hair mask with vitamin E once or twice a week.

(Vitamin E is also a very good component in natural make‑up removers. We will devote a separate article to this topic.)

- during massage it can bring great relief, it increases energy and muscle endurance. It has also found application in sports massages, because it supports the so‑called repair of muscles that have been damaged or impaired by excessively demanding exercise.

- during the actual manufacture of natural cosmetic products it acts as an antioxidant and prolongs the shelf life of oils.

We point out that in the case of any product containing water, a complex preservative agent is needed for preservation – we have already dealt with this topic; you can read more in the article Konzervanty v kozmetike.

If vitamin E has not appealed to you so far, we believe that after reading this article you will not hesitate and this helper will also find its place on your cosmetic shelf. And as you can see in the picture, not only on your cosmetic shelf, dear ladies.

B‑GROUP VITAMINS

Similarly to vitamin E, which in nature is formed by a group of eight so‑called tocopherols, vitamin B is also formed by a group of several B vitamins – B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B7, B9, and B12, which work as a complex but can also be used individually.

For cosmetic purposes, vitamins B3 and B6 are used most often.

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B3, which occurs in the form of niacinamide or nicotinic acid, has very similar effects on the skin as vitamin C. It restores the skin, reduces hyperpigmentation, improves the appearance of the skin, whether it is weakened by the ageing process or is damaged or reddened and sensitive due to various skin diseases such as acne, mild psoriasis, or dermatitis. Niacinamide can also alleviate and, to some extent, help visibly repair damage caused by ultraviolet light, as well as eliminate the negative effects of various types of substances that pollute the air.

A great benefit of this vitamin compared to other beneficial and nourishing additives (not only vitamins) is its stability (physical and chemical) against the effects of heat and light.

Note: if you remember, in the post about vitamin C we mentioned that as 100% L‑ascorbic acid it is very beneficial for the skin, perhaps the most of all vitamins used in cosmetics, but its stability under the influence of external factors “fluctuates”, and therefore it is stabilised by adding vitamin E. In contrast, vitamin B3 does not need such support.

Is it safe to use both vitamins in one formulation?

In the past, scientific research pointed to certain concerns about the joint use of vitamins C and B3 in formulations. They concerned a greatly increased pH – under the influence of L‑ascorbic acid, B3 is converted into nicotinic acid, which causes the pH value in the formulation to rise significantly and can cause reddening of the skin. This is a true fact, but fortunately, it occurs only under conditions where the formulation would be exposed to excessively high heat, and that for a long time.

There is therefore nothing to fear if you find a cosmetic product or formulation in which the combination of vitamin C and vitamin B3 appears, because under ideal conditions they increase each other’s positive effects.

Vitamin B6, also called pyridoxine HCl (pyridoxine hydrochloride – it is the hydrochloride salt of vitamin B6), has been given in medical practice the telling epithet “nerve vitamin”, which clearly indicates what this form of B‑group vitamins has the greatest merit in – in metabolism, functional metabolism, proper function of the nervous system and immunity, and as help in exhaustion and fatigue.

As far as physical and chemical properties are concerned, vitamin B6 is water‑soluble, and just like the already mentioned vitamin B3 (niacinamide), it is stable in light and oxygen, while it is recommended to add it to formulations at temperatures lower than 40 °C (it is used from 0.05% to 0.3%).

Although all B vitamins belong to one complex, the effects of individual forms differ. Just as vitamin B3 has similar effects to vitamin C and essentially supplements it in its effectiveness in nutrition, elasticity, and reduction of skin hyperpigmentation, vitamin B6 has its main function in regulating sebum:

- it balances the level of sebum

- it reduces excessive oiliness

- it supports a healthy appearance of hair

- it increases the effect of anti‑dandruff products

You can thus use it by adding it both to hair products and to cleansing products (baths, soaps, shower gels).

We provide a brief overview of the effects of the other forms of B‑group vitamins:

B5, also called panthenol, has excellent moisturising and anti‑inflammatory effects on the skin, soothes it and helps to heal minor injuries and skin defects. It also hydrates hair and scalp and provides them with moisture.

B7, also called biotin, has proved itself both in the form of dietary tablets and in cosmetic products for strengthening hair – it improves the quality of keratin structures (excellent for fine and fragile hair).

B9, or folic acid, has in general the greatest effect in the care of ageing skin, it is important in the formation and repair of DNA.

The last two mentioned vitamins are sensitive to oxygen and under its influence lose stability, therefore it is recommended to store products containing them in airless bottles. Of course, you will not do anything wrong if you use airless bottles also in the case of serums with any vitamins.

VITAMIN A

We close the topic of vitamins with the last one from our range, vitamin A.

Vitamin A is created in the human organism by supplementing beta‑carotene – provitamin A, which in the organism serves either as a yellow‑red pigment or as a so‑called precursor of vitamin A (starting substance whose conversion produces the final substance) – from one molecule of beta‑carotene two molecules of vitamin A are formed.

Beta‑carotene in the human organism mainly fulfils the function of an antioxidant; it also plays an important role in eye health, bone growth, and immunity of the organism. In case of its deficiency, the overall defence capacity of the organism decreases.

Interestingly, beta‑carotene obtained from animal sources is not water‑soluble, only fat‑soluble, and therefore it is not easily excreted from the body, it is stored in body fat, and with excessive consumption it can accumulate and thus become toxic for the organism.

By contrast, beta‑carotene obtained from plant sources is water‑soluble and therefore easily excreted from the body (toxicity caused by overdose is in this case very rare).

How to use beta‑carotene in cosmetics?

In cosmetic products and personal care products, beta‑carotene is mainly used for the preparation of:

- aftershave facial toners

- bath products

- cleansing products,

- make‑up

- hair conditioners

- shampoos

- facial care products and

- sun‑care products.

It also improves the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring the elasticity of the skin.

In cosmetics, synthetically produced beta‑carotene or natural beta‑carotene is used. Both are water‑soluble.

Finally, some terminology from the professional vocabulary, which may help you to orient yourself more easily when studying further information:

Vitamin A exists in two forms: retinoids and carotenoids. Both are converted in the organism into retinol – an important component for the formation of skin cells.

Beta‑carotene is provitamin A and belongs precisely to the group of carotenoids.

Do you use vitamins in your formulations? Which is your favourite?

The article was prepared for you by

Martina Oboňová

Please send us any of your observations and suggestions to marketing@handymade.sk.