Zinc PCA, 100 g

Zinc PCA is the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), an active ingredient derived from an amino acid that introduces zinc into a formulation in water-soluble form. It is added to products for oily and problem-prone skin and to hair care for hair prone to oiliness, where it helps regulate sebum production and leaves a fresh sensation on the skin. PCA itself belongs to the natural moisturising factor (NMF) of the skin, so the zinc here is bound to a component naturally present in the skin.

The ingredient holds ECOCERT certification, contains no animal-derived components or preservatives, and has not been tested on animals. It is processed in the water phase at temperatures up to 40 °C, making it easy to incorporate into toners, serums, creams, shampoos and deodorants without any complex procedure.

Key benefits

• Sebum regulation – according to a manufacturer study, a 1 % aqueous solution of Zinc PCA applied twice daily for four weeks statistically significantly reduced the amount of sebum on the skin compared to baseline. On the face, this manifests as less shine and a fresher feel.
• Antimicrobial effect – the manufacturer reports minimum inhibitory concentrations against a range of bacteria, yeasts and moulds, including the bacterium associated with acne (Cutibacterium acnes), Staphylococcus aureus and the yeast Malassezia furfur. In a finished product it acts as a supporting active ingredient and does not replace a preservative system.
• Astringent effect – the skin feels more tightened after application and pores appear visually smaller, which is especially appreciated in toners and light gel textures for skin prone to enlarged pores.
• Help with dandruff and oily hair – in shampoos and hair toners it contributes to a more balanced scalp. According to manufacturer data, the lowest inhibitory concentration is recorded against the yeast Malassezia furfur.
• Deodorising effect – zinc limits the growth of microorganisms, which is why Zinc PCA is also used in deodorants as a water-soluble ingredient.

Use in formulation

Zinc PCA is water-soluble and is added to the water phase. The recommended dosage is 0.1 – 2 %, with the manufacturer measuring the effect on sebum at 1 %. For targeted care of oily and acne-prone skin, 1 % is therefore a reasonable starting point.

The ingredient is processed at temperatures up to 40 °C. Add it to an emulsion only after cooling, and to toners, serums and shampoos directly at room temperature. The pH of the finished formulation should be kept between 4 and 7; the ingredient is compatible with both acidic and neutral environments within this range.

Suitable for both leave-on and rinse-off products. In rinse-off formulations such as shampoos and shower gels, it primarily contributes a fresh sensation and helps balance oiliness. In leave-on products it has longer contact with the skin, allowing its sebum-regulating and astringent effects to take fuller effect.

Suitable for products such as

• Toners and essences for oily skin – Zinc PCA dissolves completely in a water base, leaving the skin looking fresh and matte.
• Light serums and gel creams – in leave-on textures it brings sebum regulation and a pore-tightening effect.
• Products for acne-prone skin – combines sebum regulation with antimicrobial action, which the manufacturer also demonstrates against the bacterium associated with acne.
• Shampoos and hair toners – for oily hair and dandruff; in a leave-on scalp toner it acts for longer.
• Deodorants – as a water-soluble deodorising ingredient.
• Cleansers and shower gels – rinse-off care for skin prone to oiliness.
• Mattifying make-up primers – the manufacturer also indicates use in decorative cosmetics, for example in foundation primers.

Good to know

The powder itself contains no preservative. An aqueous solution and any finished product containing water therefore require their own preservative system; the antimicrobial effect of zinc does not take over this function.

The product contains no fragrance allergens, EDTA, palm oil derivatives or GMO-derived ingredients, which makes it easy to include in formulations with natural positioning requirements.

Frequently asked questions