HUMECTANTS AND EMOLLIENTS

Do you know the difference between a humidifier and a softener? And which raw materials fall into which category? Not sure? Then this topic is for you.

Perhaps the most important goal we want to achieve with natural cosmetics is beautiful, radiant, silky and moisturised skin.

How can moisturisers and emollients help us achieve this?

Moisturisers are substances that are called humectants in cosmetics. Humectants attract and hold moisture from the air and absorb it (drying products, on the other hand, attract water but do not absorb it and form a film on the surface through condensation). This general theory is not too far from the truth in actual cosmetic practice. Except that moisturizers in cosmetic products do not draw water preferentially from the air, but from the deeper layers of the skin to moisturize the surface.

But what happens if regular use will pull water "from below"?

This question is more than spot on. When the wrong humectants are used, this does indeed happen over time and the result is precisely the stripping of the lower layers of the skin of hydration, drying it out and "bending" it, which will cause the very wrinkles you wanted to avoid in the first place by using a moisturizer or even if you started using a humectant just to combat the wrinkles that have developed.

Pohľad na ženské ruky vo vode, celá fotka má bledý modrý nádych a bublinky dookola.

How do you choose the right moisturizer for your formulations?

Whether you want to make your own product using a humectant or you are just a "consumer" of natural cosmetics, it is important that you know which humectants are beneficial for your skin.

Synthetic humectants

Synthetic humectants are cheaper than natural ones, which is why cosmetic manufacturers like to use them so much. However, their initial WAU effect of moisturised skin will eventually be replaced by damaged and dry skin. These humectants draw water from deeper layers, and although they prevent water loss to a certain extent, they ultimately do not supply any nutrients to the skin, which is why skin ageing and sagging occurs over time.

Let's take a few examples of synthetic moisturisers:

PROPYLENE GLYCOL

A water-based product that can retain moisture but also dries out the lower layers of the skin and in some cases can irritate sensitive skin and cause rashes and redness.

PEG

We wrote about polyethylene glycols - petroleum-based compounds used in cosmetic products - in detail in our blog post What is PEG free?

SILICONS

They are present in perhaps all products, just for the effect of soft and smooth skin, but they also prevent the skin from "breathing" and over time can result in dry and irritated skin with possible acne.

Natural moisturisers

Natural moisturizers not only help to draw water to the surface of the skin, but also deliver hydration and nutrients to the deeper layers, which helps the skin to moisturize on a regular basis.

ALOE VERA GEL

Whether in the form of juice, prepared gel or the fresh gelled part of the plant itself, it penetrates deeply and quickly into the skin, hydrating it at the surface and at lower levels.

MED

Honey has the natural ability to retain water and moisturize without creating a greasy feeling.

HYALURONIC ACID

Has a natural ability to retain water and can act according to moisture level (low molecular, medium molecular and high molecular). You can learn more about this popular ingredient in our article Hyaluronic Acid.

GLYCERINE

It occurs naturally in every living cell, so it is easily absorbed by the skin. It can hold water really well and works by finding a balance between the water content in the air and in the skin. Plus, the texture of glycerin is perfect for skincare as it glides on smoothly and evenly.

So what is the fundamental difference between moisturisers and emollients?

While moisturisers are designed to 'attract' moisture, emollientscreate a protective film that traps it - so they primarily prevent water loss.

They are also called emollients and are applied topically to the skin to soothe, hydrate, heal and protect skin cells that are affected by various skin problems such as redness, burning, itching, irritation, scaliness. They are also used to alleviate longer term skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema or ichthyosis.

BODY LOTIONS AND LOTIONS

These products are an excellent choice for providing hydration to large areas, whether hair, skin or the whole body. The negative aspect is that they do not provide extra moisturization to the skin.

CREAMS

An excellent choice for daily hydration, suitable for those who are uncomfortable with a greasy feeling - most creams no longer have an unwanted oily texture.

MASTE

These are an excellent choice for extra dry skin or parts of it, with the negative aspect of the greasy feeling balanced by the extra dose of hydration. They are therefore recommended to be applied at night.

SPREJE

Sprays are a great gentle choice for applying a moisturizing ingredient, especially when the skin condition is so severe that it is not recommended to introduce the ingredient by spreading or other contact.

SUBSTITUTES FOR SOAP

This includes a variety of skin care products that are alternatives to daily care soaps, which can dry out or worsen the condition of compromised skin.

All of these products are washable, so you can apply them 4-5 times a day, alternating their use, to ensure all-day hydration. These are not medicated, such as corticoid ointments, which contain a drug with a specific dosage. In the case of emollients, you don't have to worry about dangerous side effects from an "overdose" If you inadvertently happen to apply an excessive amount, you simply wash off the product.

The best known emollients are:

- shea butter
- cocoa butter
- beeswax
- lanolin
- squalane - olive or cane
- cosmetic oils - e.g. olive, almond, coconut, jojoba

In principle, vegetable waxes and other vegetable oils and butters with a high oleic acid content are also an excellent choice. Their moisturizing action is very effective, but due to their high "grease" content, they create a heavy and oily feeling on the body as separate ingredients, so the best choice for formulations is to combine them with products that are lighter in form, especially with your skin type in mind.

All of these ingredients, along with the moisturizers in your formulations, prevent what is called transepidermal water loss, helping to keep your skin hydrated, soft and radiant.

Article prepared for you by

Martina Oboňová

Any insights and suggestions, please email us at marketing@handymade.sk