Sodium PCA 50%, 30 ml

Sodium PCA 50% is a humectant based on an amino acid that binds water in the skin and hair and retains it even in dry environments. The sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is a natural component of the NMF, the natural moisturising factor of human skin. It thus supplements a substance that the stratum corneum naturally contains. It is produced from L-glutamic acid and is supplied as a 50% aqueous solution with ECOCERT certification.

It is added to formulations in low percentages, into the water phase or into the finished emulsion during cooling. It suits moisturising creams, tonics and serums, as well as shower gels, shampoos and conditioners, where it reduces the feeling of skin tightness after washing.

Key benefits

• Hydration – as a humectant it attracts water and holds it in the surface layers of the skin. According to the manufacturer's measurements, it can absorb water up to 70% of its dry weight and retains it even at low air humidity.
• Skin-native ingredient – PCA forms approximately 12% of the natural moisturising factor according to the manufacturer's data. Suitable for dry, sensitive and oily skin.
• Elasticity and skin barrier support – an adequately hydrated stratum corneum acts more supple and smooth.
• Feel after washing – in the manufacturer's comparative test, a soap-based cleanser with Sodium PCA left less tightness on the skin than the same formulation without it. In shower gels and cleansers it therefore reduces the drying sensation after washing.
• Hair manageability – according to the manufacturer's tests, shampoos and conditioners with Sodium PCA improve hair manageability and reduce flyaway.

Use in formulation

The solution is water-soluble and belongs in the water phase. It is added to emulsions only during cooling; the recommended processing temperature is below 40 °C. In tonics, serums and gels it is mixed into water or the finished base. It works across a pH range of 3 – 9, covering acidic tonics and mildly alkaline cleansers.

The recommended dosage of the solution is 0.2 – 5%, depending on the product type and the desired level of moisturisation.

Compatibility is unrestricted. In moisturising formulations it is combined with other humectants, such as glycerin or Sodium Hyaluronate, with which the manufacturer also compared it in hygroscopicity measurements.

Suitable for products such as

• Moisturising creams and body lotions – water phase of emulsions, added during cooling.
• Tonics and serums – light aqueous systems into which the solution is incorporated cold.
• Shower gels, shampoos and bath products – reduce the drying sensation after washing.
• Conditioners and hair tonics – moisturisation of dry and damaged hair, better manageability.
• Pre- and post-sun products – creams, lotions and gels for replenishing lost moisture.
• Lip care and decorative cosmetics – the manufacturer lists make-ups and lipsticks; when incorporating an aqueous solution into anhydrous bases, verify compatibility beforehand.

The solution is suitable for both rinse-off and leave-on products and is appropriate for all skin types, including sensitive, dry and oily.

What is worth knowing

The manufacturer compared the hygroscopicity of Sodium PCA with glycerin and with Sodium Hyaluronate and states that it retains absorbed water even at low air humidity, when skin otherwise dries out more quickly. It differs from both in that it is a direct component of the NMF.

The manufacturer states that the ingredient is safe for skin and ocular mucous membranes, which is appreciated in facial cleansers and shampoos. The solution contains no fragrance allergens, alcohol, PEG or silicones, making it suitable for formulations for sensitive skin.

Frequently asked questions