ESSENTIAL OILS

Essential oils – pure plant essences

The category holds 358 packs of essential oils, from 5 ml samples up to 1 litre, with selected oils (lemongrass, true lavender, mandarin) also available in 5 l. The range covers citrus (lemon, bergamot, blood orange, mandarin), herbs (true lavender including organic, peppermint, rosemary), conifers and woods (spruce fir, Atlas cedarwood, Ho wood), spices (black pepper, clove, star anise) and resins such as frankincense, myrrh, elemi and benzoin.

How essential oils are made and how they differ from fragrance oils

Essential oils (also called ethereal oils or essences) are obtained by steam distillation: water vapour carries the volatile substances out of the plant material, they condense in the condenser and separate into two layers in the collection vessel – most essences float on the hydrosol, while some (clove, for example) are heavier and sink to the bottom. Citrus essences are cold-pressed from the peel. Not every plant produces essences in quantities worth distilling; if you are after the scent of fruit, food or a flower that cannot be distilled, reach for fragrance oils. An essential oil, by contrast, is always a pure plant extract.

Dosage in cosmetics

Rinse-off products tolerate a higher percentage than those that stay on the skin: shampoos, shower gels and bath cosmetics 1–4%, massage oils 1.5–3%, body lotions max. 1.5%, facial cosmetics 0.1–1.5%. More sensitive skin may not tolerate the upper limits, and if you are allergic to the source plant, choose a different oil. Dose by weighing, not by drops – the weight of a drop differs from oil to oil, and only weighing in grams gives repeatable results.

Working with the oils in a formulation

In cold-process making, add essential oils to the oil phase and mix well; in hot-process making, add them only during the cooling phase, otherwise they evaporate excessively or degrade. Products that are mostly water (facial toners, your own perfumes) need a solubiliser, such as Symbio Solv Clear Plus – fine-tune the amount within the recommended range by testing until the emulsion is clear. The same goes for bath salts and bath bombs – an essence does not dissolve in water, so always bind it to a solubiliser or to an oil or surfactant component. Vitamin E extends the shelf life of oil-based formulations: it slows oxidation, but it is not a preservative.

Safety and storage

Essential oils are concentrated substances and belong on the skin only diluted – in a carrier oil (almond, apricot), a cream or other cosmetics; undiluted oil can cause irritation or even an allergic reaction. Cold-pressed citrus essences (bergamot, lemon, lime) are also phototoxic – in leave-on cosmetics for skin exposed to the sun, keep to the IFRA limit or choose a furocoumarin-free variant, such as the bergamot FCF in our range. You will find carrier oils among the raw materials. Store in tightly closed dark glass bottles, in a cool place away from light; plastic and unprotected metal are unsuitable, as they can react with the oil. An oil that has yellowed through oxidation and lost its scent should no longer be used.

Which pack size to choose

• 5 ml: precious essences such as Damask rose or yuzu, and first samples for trying out a scent – essential oils 5 ml.
• 10 ml: the widest selection, 97 oils for testing formulations and small batches – essential oils 10 ml.
• 100 ml: 92 oils for regular production with a proven formulation – essential oils 100 ml.
• 500 ml and 1 l: 160 packs for workshops and larger runs – essential oils 500 and 1000 ml.

Every oil comes with an SDS (MSDS), a COA certificate and an IFRA statement. If you are unsure about the choice or the dosage, write to us at [email protected].