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We are bringing you instructions on how to make ombré soap using the cold process method, i.e. using sodium hydroxide and a combination of oils and butters. All you need is a preferably rectangular silicone mould at hand and you can start!
To make the green ombré soap, a blend of vegetable oils and butters was used in combination with an aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide. The blend was coloured with mica powder, but the colour you choose is entirely up to you.The top of the soap was, after firming up, covered with a white shimmering mica powder – however, this is only an optional decoration.Since any substitution of an oil or butter in the formula results in the need to recalculate it (for example using soap calculators freely available online), the formula is expressed in grams. At the same time, the total weight of oils and butters (200 g) already includes a 5% superfat (i.e. the oils are 5% in excess compared to sodium hydroxide, so this portion remains unreacted and provides care to the skin when using the soap).
Do you want to make it easier to produce the green ombré soap? You are in the right place. We will give you several hintsand tips on making ombré soap by the cold process.Sodium hydroxide is a strong alkali, so always use protective equipment when working with it. Do not forget to work in a well-ventilated room, away from pets and children. In case of skin contact, always rinse the affected area thoroughly under running cold water; you can then use diluted vinegar to neutralise any remaining sodium hydroxide. Diluted vinegar can also be used for the final cleaning of surfaces; immerse all utensils that came into contact with sodium hydroxide or uncured (unhardened) soap in its solution for a few minutes and then wash them as usual. When dissolving sodium hydroxide, a large amount of heat is released, so you can replace about half of the demineralised water with ice made from the same type of water. Do not use ordinary tap water or boiled water – such water still contains minerals that will interfere with soap formation.Pour both the sodium hydroxide solution and the oily colourant solutions ideally through a sieve. This prevents undissolved sodium hydroxide granules from entering the soap as well as lumps of undissolved colourants.When working with liquid soap batter, it is good to work quickly, as the soap will thicken and harden over time on its own. It is important to keep the same soap weight for individual layers. Therefore, use scales or a ladle so that each coloured layer has the same thickness and you achieve the desired ombré effect in the final bar. To check the pH of the green ombré soap, you can also use a phenolphthalein solution or test strips containing it. When using phenolphthalein test strips, proceed in the same way as with litmus strips; the strips should not turn pink. If you use a solution, drop it on various parts of the soap; it should also not turn pink. A pink colour indicates high pH values and therefore unreacted sodium hydroxide; such homemade soap is not safe to use.
Below you will find more detailed information on the ingredients used, including their properties and options on how to replace these raw materials.
Always use distilled or demineralised water for soap making. We have already mentioned that mineralsin normal tap water cause undesirable reactions with sodium hydroxide, so avoid such water. The soap may not harden properly and may not reach a safe pH.
Without sodium hydroxide the saponification process will not take place and you will not produce solid soap bars.Therefore, if you are apprehensive about using this ingredient, reach for ready-made melt-and-pour soap bases, for example, and make your soaps from them. Do not change the mass of sodium hydroxide – it is tied to the amount and type of oils used. Handle it carefully; it is a strong alkali.
Olive oil is the base for making many types of soaps. It provides gentle and conditioning soaps,but soaps with a high content of olive oil can be softer and may become slightly slimy in use, so it is often combined with butters or coconut oil to achieve optimal hardness and properties of the soap.
Olive oil can be replaced in the formula with another vegetable oil, but such a formula must be recalculated using a soap calculator, as the amount of sodium hydroxide and water required will change. The same applies when substituting other oils and butters.
Another popular oil in soap making is coconut oil. This oil provides beautifully hard and foamy soaps. It therefore combines very well with liquid vegetable oils. You can also choose the refined version if you are looking to reduce the cost of ingredients, as the reaction with sodium hydroxide will be the same regardless of whether the oil is refined or unrefined.
A fine creamy lather and conditioning properties are provided to your soap precisely by shea butter. In addition, it provides the soap with some hardness (compared to olive oil). Thanks to the superfatting, the unreacted share of shea butter will hydrate the skin very well.
For colouring the soap, mica powders were used. Mica powders are available in a wide range of colours,so choose your favourite one. The advantage of mica powders is also that they are very stableeven in an alkaline environment and therefore do not change colour. It is recommended to pre-disperse them in a little oiland add them through a sieve – this will prevent clumps of undispersed colourant from forming.
To perfume the final product, a fragrance oil was used. These oils have the advantage that they do not have an intense colour and thus do not disturb the ombré effect of the soap. Therefore, in this case it is a good idea to avoid dark essential oils, which are indeed an alternative to fragrance oils, but some of them are intensely coloured and can also colour the finished soap. However, fragrance or essential oil can also be completely omitted. These substances are added in relatively high doses, as part of them will react with sodium hydroxide; therefore, an excess is necessary.
Titanium dioxide is a strongly white substance used in soap making to whiten soaps and thus reduce the consumption of other colourants. It is advisable to choose a type of titanium dioxide suitable for use in oils and to disperse this substance well in a small amount of oil before adding it to the soap (ideally through a sieve). You can also omit titanium dioxide, but then it is necessary to increase the dose of green mica powder by approx. 0.5 g.
IPA is a great helper not only in the manufacture of soaps from melt-and-pour soap bases but also in cold process soap making. It helps prevent the formation of soda ash – the white coating on the soap which is mainly a cosmetic defect. When cutting the soap, you can also spray the individual slices with IPA so that the soap stops sticking and does not become covered with soda ash.
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade formulas to achieve the desired properties. However, the final result can be influenced by many factors, such as humidity, temperature, raw material quality or storage. Before you use any raw material to produce a cosmetic product, familiarise yourself with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling. Every raw material may have the potential to trigger an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using the product we recommend checking whether you are not allergic to any of the ingredients or to the final product, for example by means of a patch test. If you have very sensitive or severely acne-prone skin, or you have other skin and health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to the skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
With the green ombré soap, just like with the pink soap from the previous post, you will bring a touch of colour into your bathroom. In addition, you can constantly enjoy the natural composition of these soaps. Have you tried making the green ombré soap? Let us know how you did. Send your questions, observationsand experiences to marketing@handymade.sk so that we can share knowledge mutually. We will be pleased.We sincerely thank our dear Ivana Jačalová for her excellent posts with tutorials such as this one on making green ombré soap.Until we soap again, friends.
