Everything you need to know about IFRA and the safe use of essential oils

This article provides an overview of IFRA standards, explains their importance for the safe use of essential oils in cosmetics and aromatherapy, shows how to read IFRA certificates and how to correctly determine the maximum allowable concentrations in individual products. You will learn why some oils can be used undiluted, why others are strong allergens, and what IFRA means for cosmetic manufacturers and home makers.

What is IFRA?

IFRA stands for International Fragrance Association. It is a global organisation that represents manufacturers of perfumes, fragrances, flavouring ingredients and essential oils to ensure that fragrances and essential oils are safe for people and the environment.

IFRA - International Fragrance Association

IFRA issues what are called IFRA Standards - recommendations and limits for the safe use of fragrances and essential oils in different types of products and categories of use.

Why are IFRA standards important?

Many essential oils naturally contain allergens (e.g. linalool, limonene, eugenol, citral). Although they are natural in origin, they can cause irritation or allergic reactions at higher concentrations. Based on toxicological and dermatological data, IFRA specifies the use of individual ingredients and mixtures in such a way that they are both effective and safe.

How often is the IFRA updated?

IFRA standards are continually re-evaluated according to new scientific knowledge. The latest published version is 51. Amendment (2023). Updates may add new substances, modify maximum limits, or change categorization.

How does the IFRA evaluation of essential oils work?

1) Composition analysis

Each essential oil has a characteristic constituent profile (typically determined by GC/MS), from which potential risks and the need for limits are derived.

2) Identification of allergens

The content of naturally occurring allergens (e.g. linalool, limonene, eugenol, citral) and other safety-relevant constituents in the oil is quantified.

3) Evaluation as a whole

IFRA does not assess a single allergen in isolation, but considers the whole essential oil as a blend. For example, lavender oil may contain approximately 30% linalool and still have a "Not Restricted (NR)" designation in the current version , as long as the available data and exposure models are consistent with the safe use of the oil as a whole. Conversely, if the same allergen is added to the formulation separately (as an isolated substance), the direct limits for that substance shall apply.

4) Categorisation

IFRA distinguishes 12 main categories (e.g. perfumes, creams, shampoos, candles, mouthwashes...). For each category, maximum allowable concentrations or NR labels are defined that apply to the final product.

How to read an IFRA certificate

The IFRA certificate usually contains:

• the name of the essential oil or fragrance,
• the amendment number under which the document was issued,

• a list of categories (1-12) with maximum permitted concentrations in %,
• a 'Not Restricted (NR)' indication for the category, if applicable.

Practical example: if an essential oil for category 2 (deodorants and antiperspirants) has a limit of 8%, you may use no more than 8 g of this oil in 100 g of cream.

Why is IFRA important for cosmetics manufacturers?

• customer safety - reducing the risk of irritation and allergies,
• compliance with legislation - IFRA serves as an expert basis for regulation (e.g. in the EU),
• transparency and trust - clear indication of allergens on the label,
• international trade - IFRA compliance facilitates the marketing of products in different markets.

FAQs - Frequently asked questions about IFRA

Is compliance with IFRA mandatory?

IFRA is not a law per se, but its standards are the reference basis for legislation. In practice, IFRA limits are respected when placing cosmetics on the market.

What does "Not Restricted (NR)" mean?

NR means that there is no quantitative restriction for the category. However, allergens must be indicated on the label if they exceed the labelling threshold under EU Regulation 1223/2009.

How often does the IFRA change?

The IFRA is updated continuously according to new data; the current version is 51. Amendment (2023). With each update, thresholds or categorisation may change.

How do I find out the limit for my oil?

Ask your supplier for an IFRA certificate. It lists the maximum percentages of use allowed for each product category.

Why are some oils safe undiluted and others are strong allergens?

For example, lavender oil is generally well tolerated even when applied topically, while cinnamon, clove or oregano are strong irritants and require strict dilution. IFRA limits tell you what concentrations are safe in a particular category of use.

Does IFRA also apply to candles and diffusers?

Yes. IFRA also has defined categories for non-pharmaceutical and non-cosmetic products (e.g. candles - Cat 9, cleaners - Cat 10).

Conclusion

IFRA standards are a key tool for the safe and responsible use of essential oils - they help to get the dosage right, to read the limits for each category, to be transparent about allergens and to create products that are both effective and safe.