Overview of surfactants in cosmetics and basic information for beginners

Summer puts demands on our skin - sun, sweat, SPF products. That's why it's important to bet on an effective but gentle cleansing. In this article, you'll discover how surfactants work, where they're used, and which ones are ideal for your at-home natural skincare routine.

Surfactants in cosmetics - What are surfactants (tensides)

Surfactants, also known as tensides, are surfactants that reduce the surface tension between two substances - usually between oil and water.
They are mainly used as cleaning, emulsifying and foaming agents. Also as solubilizing, dissolving ingredients in cosmetics.

This ability to bind water with oil enables them to remove dirt, grease and make-up residues from the skin or hair.

Surfactants in cosmetics - Types of surfactants

The following types of surfactants are distinguished on the basis of their ionic charge/ionic nature. According to how they react in water (whether they carry a charge), we divide them as follows:

Anionic - they are strongly cleansing and very foaming (SCS, SCI)

Cationic -mildly cleansing and low foaming, conditioning, carry a positive charge and are mainly used in hair care because they bind to negatively charged hair and skin surfaces, reducing static electricity and improving combing.

Non-ionic - are characterized by low foaming, gentle cleaning. They are extremely gentle and do not irritate the skin, they are mainly used in products for sensitive skin, babies or in natural cosmetics (glucosides).

Amphoteric - Very gentle to the skin and eyes, little irritant and combine well with other types of surfactants. Balanced. Often act as co-surfactant, secondary tensides to balance the formulation. When combined with anionic tensides (SCI or SLSA) they will significantly reduce irritation, soften foam and improve product tolerance (Coco Betaine, Cocamidopropyl Betaine).

Surfactants in cosmetics - Overview of surfactants

Surfactants in cosmetics - How to choose the right surfactant?

Choosing the right surfactant depends on several factors:
- Skin type
- The function of the product
- The composition and desired foaming power

By skin type:

Sensitive/dry skin - choose non-ionic surfactants (Decyl glucoside, Coco glucoside) or amphoteric surfactants (Coco-Betaine). They are very mild, gentle and non-irritating and ideal for daily use products.

Normal to oily skin - choose anionic surfactants (SLSA, SCI) with gentler types. They will ensure effective cleansing without over-drying.

Depending on product type:

Hard shampoos, cleansing bars:
Powdered anionic surfactants (SCI, SLSA) are recommended as they form a creamy lather and shape well.

Micellar lotions, make-up removers:
Non-ionic, low foaming and gentle glucosides (Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside) are suitable.

Baby and intimate hygiene:
Use mainly amphoteric and non-ionic tensides - ensure gentleness and minimal risk of irritation.

Depending on the desired foam:

Strong foam:
Use anionic surfactants (SLSA, SCS, SCI) or combine them with Betains.

Gentle or no foam:
Non-ionic surfactants (Decyl Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside) are ideal for cleansing without a rich lather - also suitable for toners or gels.

Formulation Tip:
The best results are often achieved by combining surfactants. Often a combination of two or more surfactants is used - for example:

SCI + Coco-Betaine = excellent lather, reduced irritation
SLSA + Decyl Glucoside = strong cleaning but mild effect

Surfactants in cosmetics - Ecology and certifications

Many of the surfactants in the Handymade range are biodegradable, which means that the substance can break down naturally in nature. They are derived from plant or renewable sources and suitable for the production of natural cosmetics.

Biodegradability and sustainability

Glucosides (e.g. Coco Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside) are made from sugars (glucose) and coconut oil - substances with a very good ecological profile.

Even amphoteric surfactants such as Coco Betaine have a positive impact on the environment when used in recommended concentrations.

SCI and SLSA are among the more environmentally friendly alternatives to traditional sulphates (e.g. SLS) - they are less irritating and in solid form reduce the need for plastic packaging.

Surfactants in cosmetics - Certifications and legislation

Many surfactants are accepted by certification organisations such as:
o COSMOS (e.g. SCI, Decyl Glucoside, Coco Glucoside)
o Ecocert
o Vegan Society

If you are planning to produce certified natural cosmetics, it is recommended to check the Technical Data Sheets (TDS) and the origin of each raw material.

Surfactants in cosmetics - Conclusion

Surfactants are a staple in all cleansing cosmetics - from mild facial cleansers to shampoos and shower gels.

Choosing them correctly will help to create a functional, gentle and effective product that respects the needs of the skin and the environment. Choose the right surfactant for your creation by following this post.

Thanks to Tatiana Gogol for her informative contribution and explanation of the topic in this article .