Lexfeel N350, MB, 50 ml

Lexfeel N350 MB

Lexfeel N350 MB is a liquid plant-derived emollient that takes over the role of the silicone oil Dimethicone 350 in silicone-free formulations. Its viscosity is comparable, so when you switch to a silicone-free formulation you do not have to sacrifice slip or spreadability. Chemically, it is a blend of a succinic acid ester (diheptyl succinate) and a polyester based on glycerine, caprylic acid and sebacic acid.

The MB (Mass Balance) designation refers to the RSPO certification scheme. The manufacturer is an RSPO member and has a certified supply chain for palm-derived components. The raw material is fat-soluble, so it is processed in the same way as a common oil or ester in the oil phase.

What it brings to a formulation

• Slip and spreadability – a cream or serum spreads more easily and evenly, which you will appreciate in formulations with a higher proportion of butters or viscous oils.
• Smooth feel – leaves the skin smooth, similar to the silicone oil it replaces.
• Oxidation stability – an iodine value of 0.5 at most means a minimum of unsaturated bonds. Unlike oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids, it does not tend to turn yellow or develop a rancid odour.
• Does not change the colour of the product – as a clear, colourless to pale yellow liquid, it has practically no effect on the shade of the finished cream or serum.

Use in a formulation

It is added to the oil phase. It is miscible with vegetable oils and esters and does not dissolve in water. It can be processed hot or cold: in emulsions it is heated together with the other oils, and in anhydrous serums and oil blends it is mixed in at room temperature. It is liquid and clear, so there is no need to melt or premix it.

A kinematic viscosity of 335–365 cSt at 25 °C corresponds to the silicone oil Dimethicone 350. When replacing it in an existing formulation, you therefore usually do not need to change the other ingredients significantly for the sake of texture.

The manufacturer does not state a recommended usage rate in the specification. Determine the right range for your formulation by testing it in the finished product.

Suitable for products such as

• Silicone-free creams and lotions – where a light, smooth feel and good slip should be retained.
• Oil serums and facial oils – as a non-greasy ester alongside vegetable oils.
• Silicone-free hair care – conditioners and hair oils in which Dimethicone 350 is otherwise used.
• Primers and make-up – for slip during application and a smooth skin surface.

Good to know

• It is not suitable for purely aqueous systems, toners and hydrogels, since it is not soluble in water. It can enter an aqueous formulation only via an emulsifier or solubiliser, and even then only in a small amount.
• If the ester makes up the majority of the oil phase, check compatibility with the specific emulsifier and the stability of the emulsion (separation, change in viscosity) with a stability test.
• Anhydrous products with this ester do not require a preservative because of the raw material itself. In emulsions, preservation is determined by the water phase.

Frequently asked questions