Niaouli Essential Oil, 10 ml

Niaouli essential oil is added to cosmetics for its fresh cineole scent and for its effect on oily and problem skin. It is obtained by steam distillation of the leaves of the Melaleuca viridiflora tree, which belongs to the same genus as the tea tree, and in a formulation it acts as a fragrance component, an active ingredient and, in hair care, a conditioning agent.

The oil is solvent-free and of both cosmetic and food grade. It is suitable for facial oils, serums, cleansing products, toners, lip balms, after-sun products, massage blends and hair products for the scalp. The fragrance is herbal and medicinal, with a pronounced cineole and camphor note.

What it is used for

• Cleansing effect – the manufacturer states that the oil helps remove impurities and excess sebum from the skin and hair and supports a clean appearance of the pores. For this reason it is used in products for oily and acne-prone skin.
• Soothing irritated skin – according to the manufacturer’s documentation it has an anti-inflammatory effect, which shows as reduced redness and a reduced feeling of discomfort. It can be used in rinse-off and leave-on products for the face and body.
• Antimicrobial effect – the manufacturer describes it as an ingredient that supports clean skin and limits unwanted microorganisms on its surface. In a formulation this is a supporting effect and it does not replace a preservative.
• Cooling sensation – it leaves a refreshing, slightly cooling feel on the skin. The manufacturer therefore recommends it for after-sun products and for products that relieve the feeling of heat.
• Fresh fragrance in hair care – in shampoos and scalp products it acts mainly as an invigorating fragrance component. The manufacturer does not state any specific effects on the hair fibre.

Use in formulations

Niaouli is a volatile essential oil, so it is added only in the cooling phase or to the finished base afterwards, at a temperature below 40 °C. At higher temperatures some of the fragrance components evaporate and the resulting fragrance is weaker.

In emulsions it is incorporated into the oil phase in cold-process production, or stirred into the cooled emulsion while mixing continuously. In anhydrous products, for example facial oils, balms or solid massage bars, it is enough to mix the oil into a carrier oil or into a melted and partly cooled base.

The essential oil does not dissolve directly in water-based products such as toners and facial mists. It needs a solubiliser, or it is first dissolved in alcohol, with which it is compatible. In rinse-off products, for example shampoos and cleansing gels, it is added cold to the finished surfactant blend.

Suitable for products such as

• Facial oils and serums for oily skin – the oil dissolves in a carrier oil without heating, and the fragrance and cleansing effect come through in a leave-on product.
• Cleansing gels and facial toners – in toners with a solubiliser or alcohol, and in cleansing products as a fragrance component and a supporting active ingredient.
• After-sun products – for a cooling sensation in light emulsions and gels.
• Lip balms, oils and scrubs – the manufacturer states that it is suitable for the whole group of lip products. A separate IFRA category with its own limit applies here.
• Shampoos and scalp oils – as a fragrance and conditioning component, added cold.
• Massage oils and diffuser blends – for a herbal, fresh fragrance.

Good to know

When composing the fragrance, the share of niaouli counts towards the total content of fragrance components in the formulation. This must be added up with all the other essential oils and compared with the limits for the given type of product.

The oil is colourless to light yellow, so at normal usage rates it does not change the appearance of light emulsions and gels. Clear water-based systems become cloudy without a solubiliser, or the oil settles on the surface in droplets. All essential oils behave this way, and it has nothing to do with the raw material itself.

Niaouli belongs to the same genus as tea tree oil, but it is a different species with its own INCI name and its own safety documentation. This batch comes from Madagascar and holds a Vegan certification.

Frequently asked questions