PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is a non-ionic solubiliser and co-emulsifier of plant origin, produced from castor oil obtained from the seeds of the Ricinus communis plant. It is based on castor oil rich in ricinoleic acid, which is first hydrogenated, i.e. processed with hydrogen in order to saturate double bonds and increase oxidative stability. This is followed by ethoxylation, during which ethylene oxide units are attached to the hydrogenated castor oil. The number 40 in the name indicates the average number of ethoxylated units in the molecule, as a result of which the raw material has a distinctly hydrophilic character and a good ability to facilitate the mixing of a small amount of oily substances with water.
In cosmetic formulations, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is used mainly as a solubiliser for essential oils, fragrance compositions, lipophilic active ingredients and oily extracts in aqueous products. It helps to create clear or slightly opalescent solutions, reduces the interfacial tension between the aqueous and oil phases and improves the even dispersion of fragrant and oily components in products without a classic oil phase.
It is not intended to be used as the sole primary emulsifier for rich creams with a high oil content, but it works very well in products where it is necessary to dissolve a small amount of an oily component in a water-based vehicle, for example in facial toners, micellar waters, sprays, gels, shampoos or foaming cleansing products.

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Key benefits

• Effective solubiliser – helps to incorporate small amounts of oily and fragrant substances into aqueous formulations.
• Suitable for clear water-based products – at an appropriate ratio to the solubilised substance it can support a transparent or only slightly hazy appearance of the product.
• Non-ionic character – is well compatible with many anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric surfactants.
• Improves uniform fragrance distribution – helps to disperse fragrance compositions and essential oils more stably in the aqueous phase.
• Co-emulsifying effect – can support the stability of light emulsion or surfactant systems, especially when used together with a suitable primary emulsifier or surfactant blend.
• Suitable for rinse-off and leave-on products – used in a wide range of facial, body and hair care cosmetics.
• Helps to soften the sensory profile of cleansers – in surfactant systems it can contribute to a milder feel during use.
• Practical liquid form – easy to dose and incorporate into the aqueous or surfactant phase.

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Suitable for products such as

• facial toners with fragrance, hydrosols or a small proportion of lipophilic components,
• micellar waters and gentle water-based make-up removers,
• body and room sprays on a water base,
• hair sprays, hair mists and water-based styling products,
• shower gels, shampoos and foaming cleansing products,
• gel products containing fragrances or a small amount of oil-based active ingredients,
• water-based serums with lipophilic supplementary components at low concentration,
• light emulsions in which it serves as an auxiliary solubiliser or co-emulsifier,
• products with essential oils where these need to be evenly dispersed in an aqueous environment.

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Use in formulations

• The recommended usage level is usually in the range of approximately 0.5–5.0 %, depending on the product type, the amount of solubilised oily material and the desired clarity.
• For solubilising fragrances, fragrance compositions or essential oils, a ratio of approximately 1 : 2 to 1 : 6 between the oily component and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is often used; the exact ratio must be verified by a trial batch.
• It is miscible with the aqueous phase after being pre-mixed with the oily or fragrant component.
• It is soluble in water depending on the concentration and the composition of the formulation; at higher levels of oily substances opalescence or haze may occur.
• It is compatible with common hydrosols, humectants such as glycerin or propanediol, and many surfactant systems.
• The most suitable procedure is first to mix PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil with the essential oil, fragrance composition or oily extract until a uniform mixture is formed, and only then add this mixture to the aqueous phase.
• When producing clear products, it is important to add the aqueous phase gradually or to disperse the mixture thoroughly, and then check the clarity after standing.
• In surfactant products it can be incorporated into the surfactant phase or into the aqueous phase according to the specific formulation.
• It is recommended to add it during the cooling phase (at a temperature below 40 °C), especially when it is used together with essential oils, fragrance compositions or heat-sensitive active ingredients.
• For formulations with higher levels of electrolytes, alcohol, acids or preservative systems, it is advisable to check clarity, odour, viscosity and stability in a small trial batch.

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Safety and storage

• When formulating, it is advisable to observe the recommended usage level and adjust the amount to the sensitivity of the intended application, especially in leave-on products.
• For products intended for sensitive skin or the eye area, thorough tolerance testing of the finished formulation is recommended.
• Essential oils and fragrance compositions may have their own safety restrictions; when they are used, the recommended limits for the given type of cosmetic product must be respected.
• The finished formulation containing water must be properly preserved according to the overall composition of the formula.
• Store in a well-closed container, in a dry place, away from direct sunlight and sources of heat.
• At lower temperatures the raw material may thicken or partially solidify; after gentle warming and mixing its processability is usually restored.

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FAQ

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See also other solubilisers available from Handymade.sk.