VEGETABLE BUTTERS IN COSMETICS

So what actually is plant butter?

Very simply put, it is basically an extract from fruits such as seeds, kernels, beans or nuts that have a “fatty” base.

Butter melts on contact with the skin and represents an emollient and hydrating component. It can be used on its own or as part of formulations for the production of creams, body lotions and other skin and hair care products.

In addition to hydration and nourishment, they often contribute in your products to stability, viscosity, or even hardness.

view of a bowl with shea butter of a light beige colour and shea nuts right next to the bowl. The bowl and nuts are on a light grey seamless background.

What can butter contain?

Most butters contain, in various ratios and combinations, the following components, which at the same time determine the way or area of use of a given butter:

ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS

- create and maintain the skin’s natural lipid barrier

- hydrate the skin, thus preventing premature ageing and maintaining its youthful appearance

- nourish cells and protect the skin by forming an antimicrobial barrier

- prevent or reduce transepidermal water loss

VITAMINS

- prevent skin ageing, while at the same time improving the condition of the skin, minimising the occurrence of wrinkles and age or pigment spots

- protect against the adverse effects of UV radiation

- nourish hair and skin, and also act effectively against hair loss and dandruff formation

- reduce swelling, redness and sensitive reactions on the skin

PROTEINS

- repair and create new cells and tissues

- contribute to the immunity of hair and skin

MINERALS

- protect skin and hair from external destructive influences

- regulate sebum production and moisture

- support the growth of stronger hair

- exfoliate the skin

ANTIOXIDANTS

- improve blood circulation and metabolism

- improve the condition and health of the skin

- strengthen hair and prevent its loss

POLYPHENOLS

- show photoprotective properties (they protect skin and hair from the degenerative action of UV radiation)

- have antioxidant effects

- prevent collagen breakdown, thereby restoring the elasticity of the skin

- increase the moisture level of the skin and hair

PHYTOSTEROLS

- their main role is to maintain cell structure, thus helping the healing of various skin damage such as dermatitis, psoriasis, acne, burns, scars, wounds; they therefore have both regenerative and anti-inflammatory effects

TOCOPHEROL

- has natural preservative properties

- has anti-inflammatory effects

- accelerates wound healing and tissue regeneration

Before we move on to the characteristics of butter extraction processes, there are certain “technical” and quality-related information you should know about butters.

CONSISTENCY

Not all plant butters have the solid consistency that we naturally associate with butter. This does not yet mean that they are spoiled. For example, avocado butter at room temperature has the form of a paste. Something like hummus. By contrast, cocoa butter is so hard that you could grate it on a grater like Parmesan.

Their consistency can significantly influence the final product, and if you want to substitute ingredients in a proven recipe, it is necessary to keep this aspect in mind.

COLOUR/SCENT

Colour and scent are undoubtedly the first aspects we intuitively evaluate when choosing a butter. Butters are, however, either odourless or have only a very mild aroma, usually sweet, nutty or characteristic of the plant material from which they originate.

In terms of colour, they differ significantly depending on the natural colour of the nuts, seeds or kernels from which they are extracted. Shea butter has a natural ivory colour, avocado butter has delicate greenish tones, and vegan butters such as bacuri or kombo are even dark cocoa brown, while, paradoxically, cocoa butter is yellowish.

ABSORPTION

It is similar with the absorption of butter into the skin. Not all butters leave a greasy effect and it is necessary to massage some of them in for several minutes in order to ensure their complete absorption.

There are butters that are light, soft and quickly absorbed into the skin, yet leave a smooth, silky surface (for example kokum, cupuaçu, cocoa butter). On the other hand, there are butters that leave a strong occlusive moisturising barrier on the skin. These are not recommended for hypersensitive, acne-prone skin.

For the above criteria, it is also important to realise that butters are the result of the extraction of purely natural raw materials, therefore their consistency, colour or scent may differ from batch to batch, of course only within a certain permitted range. For each butter on our e-shop, you will also find an attached certificate that contains the exact values measured for the given batch.

Which butter you choose for your formulation is of course a matter of personal preference, but it is important to clarify in advance the intention, that is, the final effect of the product.

For example, a light butter with fast absorption and no greasy residue would be an excellent choice for oily skin or hair, because it would penetrate quickly through the skin and hair without clogging pores. On the other hand, a thick, deeply hydrating butter has a better effect for treating dry and damaged skin or hair.

RECOMMENDATION

In order for butter to retain its original properties for as long as possible (within its stated shelf life), it must also be stored at home under the right conditions. These are a cool, dark place, and the butter must be stored in an airtight container.

If you use butters for your personal needs or work with them in the production of skin care products, you are certainly familiar with these attributes:

- organic/BIO

- refined butter

- unrefined butter

- deodorised

Unrefined butter

It is obtained by extraction from fruits without the use of chemicals and preservatives. It can be extracted by a combination of traditional hand-made methods and mechanical pressing. In this case we can say that it is a raw butter. It is the highest quality level of processing, in which all original vitamins, substances and fatty acids remain contained in the butter.

The butter also retains its natural scent and, compared to other forms of processing, has a correspondingly shorter minimum shelf life, which, as we have already mentioned, can be maintained precisely by the recommended method of storage. After the minimum shelf life has elapsed (with proper storage), the process of change in physical properties is much faster than in the case of butters processed by chemical means.

Refined butter

It is usually prepared with hexane or other petroleum solvents, and it is usually preserved at the same time. To a large extent it loses its original nutritional values, its consistency and structure also change, as well as its colour and scent.

An excellent example for comparison is shea butter, where you can see the difference with the naked eye. Although nowadays interest in unrefined and organic versions of plant butters is growing significantly, refined butters also have their advantages. They are indeed less nourishing, but still contain valuable substances, only to a lesser extent; on the other hand, they have a longer shelf life, and even after it has expired, the butters can still be used without concern.

If you need to supplement the hydrating component of your product specifically in the form of refined shea butter, it will guarantee you an effective active ingredient, it will not colour your product and will not perfume it with an odour that may be undesirable for some, and thanks to its longer guarantee it will not shorten the shelf life of your final product.

Deodorised

In the case of cocoa butter, you may also come across the attribute deodorised. As it is a butter with a more pronounced scent, the demand for a less fragrant version has required such an adjustment. Unfortunately, in this case as well, the deodorisation process did not only remove the scent, but, due to heat treatment, also changed the colour and nutritional values. As with refined shea butter, deodorised cocoa butter has similar processing advantages.

The article was prepared for you by

Martina Oboňová

Sources:
https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/blog/products/all-about-butters.html

PLANT BUTTERS IN COSMETICS