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Salicylic acid is one of the substances used in the fight against acne. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory effects, it helps reduce redness and improve the condition of acne. If your skin tolerates salicylic acid well, you can make a breakout roll-on in the comfort of your own home. The roll-on is applied only directly to breakouts, once or twice a day.
The recipe for the breakout roll-on is given in percentages so that you can prepare any batch size.
You convert the percentages of the individual components into grams as follows: choose what the total weight of the product will be, for example 10 grams.
Multiply the total weight by the percentage of the component and divide the result by 100.
For example, for distilled water: 10 g x 80,5 % = 805 → 805/100 = 8,5 g of distilled water for a total product weight of 10 g.
Salicylic acid can sometimes be more difficult to dissolve, which is why the formula also contains sodium lactate to facilitate its dissolution. If complete dissolution does not occur even after heating and longer stirring, add a small amount of sodium lactate to the breakout roll-on.
When making the breakout roll-on, you cannot skip checking and adjusting the pH. Salicylic acid can lower the pH too much, which can be irritating to the skin. On the other hand, Zinc PCA and niacinamide require higher pH values for their effectiveness.
In addition to salicylic acid, the breakout roll-on contains other active substances whose properties are described below.
Glycerin is a basic component of many serums and water-based products and is also part of the breakout roll-on formula. It is added primarily for its humectant effects on the skin. In the breakout roll-on formula it facilitates the solubility of salicylic acid, which dissolves well in alcohols, and glycerin belongs to this broad group of substances.
The sodium salt of lactic acid is another substance that is important in making it easier to dissolve salicylic acid in an aqueous solution. Increasing the concentration of sodium lactate in the mixture facilitates the dissolution of salicylic acid for the breakout roll-on. At the same time, it is also a humectant for the skin, keeping it hydrated by increasing the amount of naturally occurring sodium lactate in the skin.
The main active ingredient in the breakout roll-on is salicylic acid – this is a BHA acid (beta hydroxy acid), which is somewhat gentler on the skin than AHA acids (alpha hydroxy acids) used for chemical peels. Salicylic acid is a frequently used raw material in the care of acne-prone skin because it has anti-inflammatory, exfoliating and antibacterial effects. It helps to reduce inflammation and redness.
Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is another substance that is important in the care of acne-prone skin. Niacinamide is sought after because it helps even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of pigmentation spots and post-acne marks, and this is also why it was chosen for the breakout roll-on. In addition, it has anti-inflammatory effects and helps improve the condition of enlarged pores, which can also occur with acne.
Zinc together with pyrrolidone carboxylic acid is also one of the active substances in the breakout roll-on. The combination with this organic acid facilitates the penetration of zinc into the skin. Zinc PCA is suitable for acne-prone skin because it helps regulate sebum production, has antimicrobial effects and at the same time hydrates the skin.
Baking soda is added to the breakout roll-on formula to increase the pH. As mentioned, some of the ingredients in the breakout roll-on are sensitive to pH changes and require a certain pH value for proper function. When adding baking soda, always mix the blend thoroughly because carbon dioxide is released during the reaction and must be removed by mixing.
Although the active substance in the breakout roll-on is salicylic acid, you can still replace some ingredients and adjust the formula to your own preferences.
Ordinary distilled water can be replaced with floral waters. However, each floral water has its own pH value, which will affect the amount of baking soda used, so it is all the more important here to add baking soda gradually and to check the pH of the breakout roll-on mixture continuously.
If you wish to use salicylic acid in a breakout roll-on, glycerin and sodium lactate are essential to dissolve it in the aqueous solution. However, Zinc PCA and niacinamide are not mandatory ingredients and you can omit them from the formula. Alternatively, they can be replaced with other active ingredients. In that case, make sure you know in which pH range those substances are active and whether they are compatible with salicylic acid.
Salicylic acid is also soluble in ethanol (alcohol), so you can replace water, glycerin and sodium lactate with ethanol in the breakout roll-on formula. However, a high concentration of ethanol may be irritating for some skin types. It is also preferable to use food-grade, non-denatured alcohol because some denaturing agents can be harmful and irritating to the skin and the body.
The baking soda used in the breakout roll-on can also be replaced by other substances that increase the pH. The most common alternative is a 30 % sodium hydroxide solution. When using sodium hydroxide, carbon dioxide will not be produced in the breakout roll-on mixture. At the same time, the amount of baking soda needed is not equal to the amount of sodium hydroxide solution used, so add this solution drop by drop and keep checking the pH.
Euxyl PE 9010 is not the only preservative you can use for the breakout roll-on. When choosing a preservative, the pH of the product is the most important factor, so choose preservatives that are active at the final product pH and are broad-spectrum (effective against yeasts, bacteria and moulds).
As the name already suggests, the finished mixture is filled into a small bottle with a roller ball, the so-called roll-on. The advantage of a roll-on is that it makes application easier directly onto breakouts. The disadvantage is that the ball comes into direct contact with the skin and thus contaminates the remaining solution. For this reason, it is best to use up the breakout roll-on within a few weeks (which is why it is ideal to make it in small batches).
Another option is to use airless bottles. These have a pump that dispenses the required amount of product, which you then apply to the skin. The advantage is that you do not come into contact with the remaining mixture and it is also protected from air. On the other hand, application is more demanding because it is no longer a roll-on, and it is advisable to thicken the mixture with salicylic acid to reduce its fluidity. For thickening, konjac powder in an amount of 0,5 % or less is ideal.
As mentioned, you can experiment with homemade formulas to achieve the desired properties. However, the final result can be influenced by many factors, such as humidity, temperature, quality of the ingredients and their storage.
Before using any ingredient to make a cosmetic product, get familiar with its properties, recommended dosage, storage conditions and safe handling. Any ingredient can have the potential to trigger an allergic reaction in sensitive individuals, so before using the product we recommend checking, for example by a patch test, whether you are allergic to any of the ingredients or to the finished product.
If you have very sensitive or very acne-prone skin, or if you have other skin or health problems, we recommend that you consult a medical professional before applying a new product to your skin, whether it is a homemade cosmetic product, a pure raw material or a commercially available product.
The breakout roll-on will be an excellent helper in skin care for young people whose skin is still changing.
If you have tried this guide, be sure to let us know how it works on acne. Tips and tricks will also come in handy for other alchemists.
Until we saponify again, friends.
