Serum with vitamin C in two ways

A vitamin C serum is suitable for tired skin that needs brightening. Make it together with us

Today we will show the production of two serums with vitamin C. Vitamin C acts as an antioxidant, capturing free radicals and providing electrons to destroy them.

It also maintains the level of alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E), which acts precisely against free radicals. It is known for its anti-ageing effects by helping to maintain the structure of collagen molecules, which are responsible for the elasticity of our skin.

Vitamin C helps with skin hyperpigmentation and thanks to its effects the skin is radiant. Together with vitamin E they regenerate the skin and partly protect it against damage from UV radiation.

Vitamin C serum in a brown glass bottle with a dropper lying on a surface made of sliced citrus fruits.

VITAMIN C SERUM - THEORY AND CALCULATION

Vitamin C is a very unstable substance, especially in the form of L-ascorbic acid. Because it is water-soluble, it easily changes into dehydro-L-ascorbate (DHA), which is referred to as an ineffective form of ascorbic acid. Despite a light-impermeable container, up to 50 % of L-ascorbic acid is converted into DHA (pH 3.5; temperature 25°C) already during one week of storage, which we can also observe in the colour change of the serum to yellow-orange.

L-ascorbic acid can be stabilised with various products. The most common substance used for stabilisation is vitamin E, which is contained in many popular serums. However, this serum is more demanding to produce, also from a financial point of view. Unlike vitamin C, vitamin E is not well soluble in water, but it is well soluble in fats or oils. This means that, among other things, we must also use an emulsifier for the preparation, and in order for this serum to last for a longer period, it is necessary to use a preservative.

According to many studies, vitamin C has positive effects when used in the range of 5–20 % and at a pH of approximately 3.5. However, our skin has pH values in the range of 5–6; in order for the serum not to have irritating effects, it is necessary to adjust the pH to a value pH closer to that of our skin by means of sodium bicarbonate. Vitamin C belongs among photoprotective substances, which must be stored in light-impermeable containers, since it degrades in light.

Calculation of the amount of vitamin C in the serum: (Percentage value of L-ascorbic acid / 100) x total volume of serum

Calculation of the amount of 10% L-ascorbic acid serum: (10 % / 100) x 20 ml = 2 g

VITAMIN C SERUM - FIRST SERUM

SHORT-LIVED SERUM WITH 10% VITAMIN C - RAW MATERIALS

Name of raw material	Content in %
L-ascorbic acid	10%
Glycerin	30%
Distilled water	60%
Sodium bicarbonate	as needed

SHORT-LIVED SERUM WITH 10% VITAMIN C - PREPARATION PROCEDURE

1.	We disinfect all tools and containers.
2.	In a container we mix the weighed distilled water and glycerin.
3.	To the mixture we add the given amount of L-ascorbic acid, and we stir until the cloudy mixture becomes clear.
4.	In a new container we weigh 8 g of distilled water and add 2 g of our prepared serum. We stir the solution and measure the pH. If necessary, by means of sodium bicarbonate we adjust the pH to 4–4.2.
5.	We store the prepared serum in a light-impermeable container.

The preparation of this serum is very simple and takes approximately 5 minutes. But it is IMPORTANT to note that this serum must be used within approximately one week, therefore we recommend making this serum in a smaller volume.

A young woman stands in front of a white background and various droppers are applying serums to her face.

VITAMIN C SERUM - SECOND SERUM

LONG-LASTING SERUM WITH 10% VITAMIN C - RAW MATERIALS

Phase	Name of raw material	Content in %
A	Glycerin	5.0%
A	Distilled water	67%
A	L-ascorbic acid	10%
B	Linseed oil	10%
B	Olivem 1000	4.0%
C	Vitamin E, liquid tocopherol 96%	2.0%
D	EUXYL PE 9010	1%
D	Sodium bicarbonate	as needed

LONG-LASTING SERUM WITH 10% VITAMIN C - PREPARATION PROCEDURE

1.	We disinfect all tools and containers.
2.	In a container we mix water and glycerin, we add ascorbic acid and stir the mixture thoroughly until it changes from cloudy to clear.
3.	In a new container we weigh the components of the oil phase, which we mix. We heat the mixture until the emulsifier Olivem 1000 dissolves (~70°C).
4.	To the oil mixture, after cooling to approx. 40°C, we add vitamin E and stir.
5.	If both phases have approximately the same temperature, we add the aqueous phase to the oil phase and stir thoroughly.
6.	In a new container we weigh 8 g of distilled water and add 2 g of our prepared serum. We stir the solution and measure the pH. If necessary, by means of sodium bicarbonate we adjust the pH to 4–4.2.
7.	We store the prepared serum in a light-impermeable container.

This serum is more complex to prepare, but its maximum shelf life is up to 6 months. To achieve a creamy consistency, you can, after adding the aqueous phase to the oil phase, homogenise the serum with a mixer, but do not forget to adjust the pH beforehand. We recommend applying both serums at night. And for better storage, wrap the containers in aluminium foil.

VITAMIN C SERUM - CONCLUSION

Do you use vitamin C in your skincare routine? As we have already learned from the introduction of this post, including vitamin C in your skincare is a great step for the skin.

Do you like this guide for creating a serum with vitamin C content? Be sure to let us know in the comments here or on Facebook. It will be great feedback for us and for our customer Klára Oláhová, who prepared this post for you.

In case of any questions, leave us a message at marketing@handymade.sk

Until saponification, friends.