Vitamin B3/PP, Nicotinamid/Niacinamide, 5 kg

Vitamin B3/PP, known in cosmetics as niacinamide (nicotinamide), is one of the most widely used active ingredients in skincare. It is added to serums, creams and tonics when a formulation is intended to support the skin barrier, even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. It is equally at home in shampoos and scalp preparations, where it functions as a conditioning ingredient.

It dissolves in water quickly and completely, does not colour the product or alter its scent. It can therefore be incorporated into almost any formulation with a water phase. Typical usage levels range from 2 to 10 % depending on the intended effect.

Effects on the skin

• Skin barrier support – niacinamide promotes the formation of ceramides and other lipids in the skin. The result is reduced water loss and a more resilient complexion that reacts less to external stimuli. The effect builds gradually with regular use.
• Evening out skin tone – it limits the transfer of pigment to the upper layers of the skin, which is why it is used in formulations targeting uneven tone and pigmentation spots. Results are typically visible after several weeks.
• Oily and acne-prone skin – it helps regulate sebum production and visually reduces enlarged pores. It suits lightweight fluids and gel creams.
• Soothing – it reduces redness and irritation, which is why it also appears in products for sensitive skin and in baby cosmetics.
• Hair and scalp – in shampoos and hair tonics it acts as a conditioning ingredient and helps calm the scalp.

Use in formulation

The powder dissolves directly in the water phase: in water, a hydrolat or in a portion of the water phase set aside separately. It dissolves at room temperature; heating is not required. If you heat the formulation, add the solution only during the cooling phase, at a temperature below 40 °C. For emulsions, it is good practice to dissolve the niacinamide in a small amount of water and stir it into the finished, cooled emulsion.

For daily care 2 – 5 % is sufficient; targeted serums work with concentrations of 5 – 10 %. Higher dosages do not yield proportionally better results and may cause transient flushing in some users, so we recommend starting at the lower end of the range.

The recommended pH range of the finished product is 5 – 7. At strongly acidic or alkaline pH and at elevated temperature, part of the niacinamide may gradually convert to nicotinic acid, which causes flushing and a sensation of warmth on the skin. It therefore makes sense to verify the pH value again a few weeks after production.

It is compatible with all surfactant types – anionic, cationic, non-ionic and amphoteric – as well as with alcohol and common preservatives. It can therefore be used in shampoos, shower gels and intimate hygiene products. It is only partially soluble in alcohol. For alcoholic tonics, dissolve it in the water portion first and add the alcohol afterwards.

Suitable for products such as

• Serums and essences at targeted concentrations of 5 – 10 %
• Day and night creams, fluids and gel creams for all skin types
• Tonics and facial mists on a water base
• Eye creams and serums at lower dosages
• Shampoos, hair tonics and scalp preparations
• Shower gels, intimate hygiene products and baby cosmetics
• Water-based colour cosmetics, for example tinted and BB creams

Useful to know

• It does not dissolve in oil. It therefore does not belong in anhydrous products such as oil serums, balms or facial butters.
• The solution is colourless and odourless, so it does not affect the colour or fragrance of the product.
• It works in both rinse-off and leave-on formulations. In rinse-off products the skin contact is brief, so the conditioning effect is more relevant than the tone-evening effect.
• When handling the powder, wear gloves and protect your eyes and respiratory tract; the raw material is classified as irritant. The classification applies to the pure raw material in powder form.
• At high dosages, we recommend a patch test on a smaller group of users before launching the formulation.

Niacinamide and nicotinic acid

Both substances belong to vitamin B3, but they behave differently on the skin. Nicotinic acid (niacin) dilates blood vessels and causes flushing with a sensation of warmth, making it undesirable in cosmetics. Niacinamide does not produce this effect, provided it does not break down in the formulation. It is enough to maintain a pH in the range of 5 – 7 and to process it without unnecessary heating.

Frequently asked questions