Hyaluronic Acid, Vegetable, HMW, 1.5-2 MDa, 10 g

High molecular weight hyaluronic acid binds water on the skin surface. It is added to serums, toners, facial creams and hair cosmetics as a humectant and active ingredient: it forms a thin film that retains water, supports hydration and relieves the feeling of tightness. It gives the finished product a smoother, more slippery feel. As little as 0.05 – 0.5 % in a formula noticeably changes both the texture and the feel after application.

The ingredient is produced by fermentation without raw materials of animal origin, which is why it is classified as plant-based. It holds a Vegan certification and approval for natural cosmetics under the COSMOS and NATRUE standards, so it is also suitable for formulas intended for certification.

What it is good for

• Surface hydration – the long chain stays on the skin surface, binds water and slows its evaporation. This shows as an immediate feeling of hydrated and smoothed skin.
• Film and smoothing – once dry it leaves a light film that optically smooths fine dry lines and improves the feel on the skin in serums and light emulsions.
• Texture and slip – even in a small amount it increases the viscosity of the water phase and gives the product a smooth, “serum-like” character. A gel serum can thus be prepared without an additional thickener.
• Broad use – suitable for all skin types including sensitive, children's and acne-prone skin, for rinse-off and leave-on products, for the face, body, lips, the eye area, hair and scalp.
• Compatibility – it is compatible with anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and with common preservatives, so it also belongs in cleansing gels and shampoos.

Use in the formulation

The powder belongs in the water phase and dissolves cold, at a temperature of up to 40 °C. The recommended pH range of the finished product is 5 – 8.

The most common mistake when working with hyaluronic acid is lumps. On contact with water the powder swells quickly. When poured in all at once, it coats itself in a gel layer and the inside stays dry. For this reason, add it in a thin stream into the water while stirring constantly, or first mix it into glycerin or another water-soluble polyol and then pour the suspension into the water. Let the gel swell until it is clear and free of lumps. With a high molecular weight this takes longer than with low molecular weight types.

A water-based hyaluronic acid gel is a breeding ground for microorganisms, so a preservative is always added, including to the stock gel. Add the preservative before pouring in the powder or after it has fully swollen, according to the recommendation of its manufacturer.

Suitable for products such as

• Hydrating serums and gels – here hyaluronic acid acts as both an active ingredient and a thickener. With glycerin or betaine a simple, functional serum is created.
• Toners and mists – at the lower dosage limit the product stays thin and can be sprayed, and the skin gains a thin hydrating film.
• Facial creams and emulsions – it is added to the water phase and improves slip and the feel after it is worked in, especially in light O/W emulsions.
• Care for the eye area and lips – the ingredient is also intended for these sensitive areas.
• Shampoos, shower gels and intimate hygiene – in rinse-off products it improves slip and the feel of the skin after rinsing.
• Children's cosmetics – also suitable for children's skin.

What is good to know

The viscosity of a hyaluronic acid gel reacts sensitively to salts. Electrolytes such as sodium chloride, preservative salts or mineral extracts thin the gel, sometimes significantly. Therefore add salts and extracts with a higher mineral content only to the finished gel and verify the resulting viscosity.

Keep to the recommended pH range. For serums with acids (AHA, vitamin C in the form of ascorbic acid) that push the pH below 5, verify viscosity stability over several weeks.

A higher dosage gives a thicker gel, but on the skin it can leave a feeling of tightness or stickiness, especially in a dry environment. Serums with a high proportion of hyaluronic acid and no oil component are often described by customers as “tightening”. A combination with glycerin, betaine or a small amount of oil in an emulsion helps.

The difference between HMW and LMW hyaluronic acid

The molecular weight determines how hyaluronic acid works in a product. The high molecular weight type (HMW, 1.5 – 2 MDa) stays on the skin surface, forms a film, binds water and thickens. It is suitable where you want an immediate feeling of hydration, smoothing and serum texture. The low molecular weight types (LMW) have shorter chains, act as an active ingredient with less influence on viscosity and barely form a film on the surface. Both types are commonly combined in a single formula, each contributing something different.

Frequently asked questions