CycloRetin, Natural Peptide, 10 ml

CycloRetin, a natural peptide, is an active ingredient for mature skin that takes on the role of retinol in a formulation without its irritancy. It is obtained by extraction and fractionation from the adaptogenic plant Pseudostellaria heterophylla, known as prince's ginseng, and is standardised to the content of the cyclic peptide heterophyllin B. It is incorporated into serums, creams and emulsions intended for the face.

The manufacturer developed it as a response to the long-standing problem with retinol: an effect on wrinkles and skin firmness yes, but at the cost of irritation, instability and the recommendation to use it only in the evening. According to the manufacturer's data, CycloRetin triggers similar pathways in the skin as retinol, but is suitable for both day and night care.

What it brings to the skin

• Skin firmness – in the manufacturer's clinical study with 0.3% CycloRetin, skin firmness improved after four weeks and continued to increase after eight, comparable to 0.5% bakuchiol.
• Appearance of wrinkles – at 1% dosage, the manufacturer measured smoothing of wrinkles after just two weeks, with a result comparable to 0.3% retinol and a faster onset.
• Sagging contours – the manufacturer's study reports a reduction in skin sagging after four weeks, more pronounced than with bakuchiol.
• Brightening – the manufacturer's colorimetric measurement showed higher skin luminosity compared to both placebo and bakuchiol.
• Barrier and hydration support – in in vitro tests, the manufacturer observed increased expression of genes associated with barrier function and hydration pathways of the epidermis.

Clinical results come from the manufacturer's studies on women aged 45 to 65. In the finished product, they depend on dosage, formulation type and regularity of use.

How it differs from retinol and bakuchiol

Retinol is predominantly a synthetic molecule that acts via retinoid receptors, but often causes irritation, is unstable and the limitation of its maximum concentration in cosmetics is under discussion. CycloRetin is based on a cyclic peptide of plant origin and, according to the manufacturer, stimulates seven targets of retinoid metabolism, supporting collagen production three times better than bakuchiol and skin matrix organisation better than retinol. For the formulator, there is one key practical difference: CycloRetin dissolves in water, so it belongs in the water phase, not in oils.

Use in formulation

The recommended dosage is 0.3 – 2.5%. The lower limit corresponds to the concentration tested for skin firmness and sagging, 1% was used by the manufacturer in the wrinkle study.

The ingredient is added to the water phase or to the cooling phase after emulsification. The manufacturer does not specify a temperature limit. It can also be added to a finished serum or gel subsequently — simply mix it in and verify homogeneity.

The product is intended for leave-on face preparations. The manufacturer does not specify a suitable pH range; we recommend verifying stability in a specific formulation in the finished product. The ingredient has an orange colour, which at higher doses may slightly affect the shade in clear and light-coloured formulations.

Suitable for products such as

• Anti-ageing serums – the water base allows easy incorporation into water-based serums and gels.
• Day and night creams for mature skin – according to the manufacturer, it does not require restriction to night-time use like retinol.
• Creams and gels for facial contour firming – corresponds to the results of the study on sagging and firmness.
• Brightening emulsions – the manufacturer's colorimetric data support the claim of brighter skin.

Good to know

CycloRetin contains water, so a finished product with a water phase requires preservation. The ingredient itself does not replace a preservative or antioxidant.

When combining with retinol or bakuchiol in one formulation, the manufacturer provides no data; both synergy and stability need to be verified. Store in a cool place, in a tightly closed container.

Frequently asked questions