Benefits of water-free cosmetics: Why it pays off to choose products without water

Summer is quite a challenge for our skin. Increased exposure to UV radiation, high temperatures, frequent travelling and air-conditioned spaces can dry it out and irritate it. If you want to relieve your skin and at the same time care for it gently and effectively, it may be time to discover water-free cosmetics – that is, products without water content, which nowadays are among the growing trends in skincare. Let’s take a closer look at the benefits they offer.

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics

1) Higher concentration of active ingredients
In conventional face creams, water often makes up to 90 % of the formulation. Water-free products –  balms, oils, sticks or powders – work differently: they do not contain water, and therefore can consist of more active and nourishing components in the same volume as water-based products.

2) Lower need for preservatives
The breeding ground for bacteria is precisely water. That is why it is essential to use preservatives in conventional cosmetics, and we cannot avoid them even in natural cosmetics. Water-free cosmetics often almost completely bypass the use of preservatives and therefore can be gentler on the skin in summer, when it is more sensitive.

3) Longer shelf life and better stability in high temperatures
High temperatures are not beneficial for classic creams; emulsions can deteriorate or separate. Anhydrous products, however, are much more stable – they do not contain emulsions or water that could spoil, and they tolerate heat as well as longer transport very well.

4) Eco-friendliness and sustainability
The production of cosmetics without water saves huge amounts of this precious resource. In addition, such products tend to be more compact, consume less packaging and leave a smaller ecological footprint. In times of climate crisis, this is a simple step in the right direction.

5) Practicality when travelling in summer
A solid balm, stick or powder serum will not spill, does not take up much space and passes through airport security without any problems. Water-free products are lightweight, practical and withstand demanding conditions, whether you travel to a festival, on holiday or just for a weekend by the water. A not negligible advantage of natural water-free products is that their composition does not disrupt the ecosystem, making them a great choice when hiking or camping in nature.

A classic moisturising cream can indeed supply water to the skin, but in summer it quickly evaporates as a result of high temperatures and lower relative humidity of the environment. The skin also loses water due to the effect of UV radiation, sweating, more frequent washing, bathing in chlorinated pools, as well as mechanical friction (towels, clothing...). Water-free products create a protective barrier on the skin that helps to reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

A common component in natural water-free cosmetic products are plant butters, which you can read about on the Handymade blog.

One of the most valuable butters, originating from Africa, is shea butter (Shea butter). It has been proven that it helps retain water in the skin, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects and also slows down skin ageing¹ thanks to its high content of vitamins A and E. It is very suitable for formulations intended to prevent the formation of stretch marks and is also able to partially absorb UV radiation thanks to the content of cinnamic acid esters and triterpene alcohols, which is why it is suitable for sunscreens. Unrefined shea butter has a specific scent, which needs to be taken into account when incorporating it into formulations. If you are looking for a simple way to give your skin the benefits of shea butter, try a whipped butter – it is soft, nourishing and at the same time brings a luxurious feeling of pampering the skin. 

 

 

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics – whipped butter to support skin regeneration

Ingredients:

● 10 g beeswax
● 50 g jojoba oil
● 50 g shea butter
● 40 g mango butter
● 15 g argan oil
● 10 g avocado oil
● 4 g liquid coenzyme Q10
● 1 g pomegranate extract
● 15 drops of liquid vitamin E
● essential or fragrance oil according to preference
 (in this recipe, Mango fragrance oil and Indian rosewood essential oil were used)

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics – method

Disinfect all tools and containers that you will use, for example with high-percentage alcohol.

In a water bath, melt beeswax, butters and oils in a bowl suitable for whipping. Let the mixture slightly solidify in the refrigerator or freezer. You can recognise the correct consistency when the “crust” formed breaks through when gently pressing the surface.

Then whip the mixture with an electric mixer, add the active ingredients – vitamin E, pomegranate extract, Q10 and fragrances.

Whip with breaks until you achieve an airy and firm consistency.

With proper storage, the whipped butter will last for several months.

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics – use and tips

This whipped butter is suitable for evening skin care in summer after sun exposure, ideally for example after a bath, since it also contains beeswax and richer components, therefore it stays on the skin longer and keeps it supple and hydrated. In addition to butters and oils that are rich in vitamins of groups A, B, D and E, this butter also contains other active ingredients – coenzyme Q10 and pomegranate extract, which enhance the regenerative effect of the product, help prevent premature skin ageing and improve its condition. 

There are already many recipes for whipped butter nowadays; you can prepare various variations by replacing oils or butters with another type, depending on the purpose for which we want to use the butter. In general, if you are not able to whip the mixture and it is too hard, add a liquid oil and repeat the process. If, on the contrary, it does not whip and is thin, add melted butter and whip again. An ingredient that is not worth omitting from the recipe is vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, which is among the most important antioxidants for the skin. Its main role is to protect cells from damage caused by free radicals and solar radiation². In addition, it slows down the oxidation of oils, so your butter will stay fresh longer. 

Benefits of anhydrous natural cosmetics – conclusion

The article explaining the benefits of water-free cosmetics will certainly convince you that it really pays off to make your own natural cosmetics at home. Therefore, the article also contains instructions for creating a regenerating whipped body butter, which is easy to make for both beginners and advanced users.
We believe that thanks to this article with instructions you will discover a love for creating natural cosmetics.

We thank our customer and creator Erika Samoľová for the great contribution and the recipe for the whipped butter.

Sources:

1) Ayanlowo O. et al. African oils in dermatology. Dermatologic Therapy. 2022; 35.DOI: 10.1111/dth.14968
2) Nachbar, F., Korting, H. C. The role of vitamin E in normal and damaged skin. J. Mol. Med. 1995, 73, p. 7-17