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Fermentation in cosmetics helps make active ingredients accessible, improve the bioavailability of extracts and support modern skin care. Let’s look at the difference between a fermented and a non‑fermented extract, what hyperfermentation is and how to use these raw materials in cosmetic formulations.
Fermentation is one of the most interesting directions in modern cosmetics. Although many people know it mainly from foods – yoghurt, kefir, kimchi or kombucha – its importance in cosmetic formulations is growing very quickly.
In cosmetics, fermentation is used for botanical extracts, active ingredients, hydrating complexes, components for sensitive skin and raw materials focused on supporting the skin barrier or the microbiome.
It is not just a marketing trend. With a well‑designed raw material, fermentation can actually influence how available the substance is to the skin, how well it integrates into the formulation and what cosmetic effect it can deliver.
Fermented extracts therefore have their place in serums, facial toners, essences, creams, masks and hair products – everywhere we want to work with active components for sensitive or stressed skin.
Fermentation is a biotechnological process in which microorganisms or enzymes convert the original raw material into a new, partially modified form. The aim is to make active substances accessible which in the plant are originally bound or more difficult to utilise.
In cosmetics, the most commonly used are lactic acid bacteria, yeasts or specific enzymes. They can break down more complex substances into smaller molecules, release bound active components and change the overall profile of the extract.
In botanical extracts, fermentation can influence the content of free amino acids, organic acids, polyphenols, sugars, peptides and minerals. Because of this, fermented raw materials are often associated with better bioavailability – that is, how well the skin can use the active ingredient.
Some active substances are present in plants in a bound form or as part of larger molecular complexes. The skin may not be able to make good use of them in their original form.
Fermentation can partly “unlock” these substances – larger structures are broken down into smaller, simpler and more soluble components. This does not mean that every fermented extract is automatically more effective than every non‑fermented extract. It does mean, however, that fermentation is a very useful way of increasing the functional potential of a raw material.
The difference between a fermented and a non‑fermented extract is important especially in terms of composition, availability of the active substances and the overall character of the raw material.
Classic botanical extract obtained from the plant or one of its parts using a solvent – water, glycerine, alcohol, propanediol or their combination.
It contains the substances naturally present in the plant: polyphenols, flavonoids, tannins, minerals, organic acids, sugars, mucilages.
Suitable where we want to provide a classic botanical benefit – antioxidant, soothing, astringent, hydrating or toning. See also macerates and extracts in the range.
The original raw material or extract undergoes a fermentation process. Microorganisms or enzymes change its composition – they cleave larger molecules, release bound substances and new metabolites are formed.
The result is an extract with a different profile – milder, better usable, functionally more interesting.
Suitable for modern formulations focused on hydration, comfort, sensitive skin, barrier support and the microbiome.
A non‑fermented extract delivers the plant’s natural substances. A fermented extract delivers these substances after biotechnological processing, which can improve their availability and cosmetic potential.
Fermented raw materials are used above all where we want to support skin comfort, hydration, formulation mildness and better utilisation of active substances. The specific effect depends on the type of raw material, the microorganism used, the type of fermentation, the concentration and the overall composition of the product.
Fermentation breaks larger molecules down into smaller ones and releases substances bound in more complex structures. The extract has a more active and more accessible profile.
Many fermented extracts have a gentle cosmetic profile and fit well into formulations for more sensitive or reactive skin.
During fermentation, amino acids, sugars and organic acids are formed or released – substances with hydrating and emollient potential.
Fermentation can influence the availability of polyphenolic and antioxidant substances. This is of interest in products for dull and tired skin.
Fermented, postbiotic and probiotic‑oriented raw materials fit into the modern concept of the skin barrier and the microbiome.
Fermented raw materials act as a modern technological element – the formula gains a more sophisticated character and communication story.
Fermentation is not a single universal process. In cosmetics we encounter several types, depending on which microorganism or technological procedure is used.
Hyperfermentation is a more modern and more intensive type of fermentative processing. In practice it is a multi‑step, optimised or technologically enhanced process, the goal of which is to make active substances from the raw material significantly more accessible.
For hyperfermented extracts, higher bioavailability, better cosmetic performance, a milder profile and suitability for modern formulations are emphasised.
It is associated above all with Asian cosmetics, K‑beauty trends, essences, toners, hydrating serums and products for a sensitive or weakened skin barrier.
It is K‑beauty in particular that has shown that modern skin care does not have to be based only on strong exfoliating acids and retinoids – it can also be about hydration, layering, the microbiome, the barrier and cleverly processed botanical extracts.
With fermented raw materials we encounter the terms probiotics, prebiotics and postbiotics. In cosmetics they are used more cautiously than in foods – live microorganisms in finished products are technologically demanding in terms of stability and safety.
In the range of active ingredients from Handymade.sk there are several fermented or biofermented raw materials suitable for modern face, body and hair formulations.
Centella Asiatica is one of the most popular botanical components in modern cosmetics. It is best known from K‑beauty products and formulas for sensitive or stressed skin. The fermented aqueous extract combines the botanical character of centella with fermentative processing – it suits formulations that are meant to feel gentle and modern.
Typical use: facial toners, essences, serums, hydrating creams, masks.
Rice water has a long tradition especially in Asian skin and hair care. The fermented version moves it into a more modern form – fermentation changes its composition and increases the availability of some naturally present substances. It is used for its hydrating, smoothing and conditioning character.
Typical use: facial toners, essences, hair tonics, rinses, hair masks.
Aurafirm N is a fermented active oat complex focused on skin comfort and microbiome‑oriented care. Oats have long been known in cosmetics for sensitive and irritated skin – fermentative processing adds a biotechnological dimension to this concept and fits into the trend of skin‑barrier‑friendly cosmetics.
Typical use: sensitive skin, barrier care, soothing serums, body milks, balms.
Fermented raw materials are very versatile. Most often they are used in the water phase or in water‑soluble products, but the specific use always depends on the technical specification of the given raw material.
They are suitable for facial toners, essences, serums, hydrating creams, masks and hair care – wherever the cosmetic product has the opportunity to bring an active component into direct contact with the skin.
An ideal category – light texture, high proportion of water phase, first active step after cleansing. Fermented components support hydration, comfort and a gentle effect without a heavy feel on the skin.
Serums make it possible to work with a higher concentration of actives. Fermented extracts combine well with glycerine, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, niacinamide and betaine.
In cream formulations they add a gentle active benefit. They are suitable for products that combine hydration, lipids, emollients and barrier‑oriented ingredients.
Hydrating, soothing or brightening masks. In leave‑on products they have enough time to work on the skin and show their cosmetic potential.
Some fermented raw materials – for example fermented rice water – are also interesting for hair care. Rinses, hair tonics, masks, products to support softness and shine.
Postbiotic and fermented ingredients fit into the modern concept of skin‑barrier‑friendly cosmetics. They support comfort and the skin’s natural balance without aggressive actives.
When working with fermented extracts it is important to treat them as active raw materials. Monitor the recommended dosage, pH stability, temperature resistance, compatibility with the preservative system and the overall stability of the final product. Most fermented extracts are added in the cool‑down or final phase of the formulation, especially if they contain more sensitive bioactive substances.
Practical questions from formulation practice – pH, manufacturing phases, preservation, compatibility with other actives and stability of the finished product.
Most fermented extracts are stable in the range of pH 4.5–6.5, which corresponds to the physiological pH of the skin. Always check the specific value in the technical documentation of the raw material – some bioferments are sensitive to an alkaline environment and may lose effectiveness at pH values above 7.
Most often in the cool‑down or final phase at a temperature below 40 °C. More sensitive bioferments can lose activity at higher temperatures, so they are not incorporated into the hot water or oil phase. You will find the specific instruction in the supplier’s TDS.
Mildly acidic or pH‑neutral systems without an aggressive effect on bioactive molecules – for example combinations of pentylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin or complex systems such as Geogard ECT. Compatibility is always confirmed by a microbiological challenge test.
It depends on the specific raw material. Many fermented botanical extracts are vegan and some have COSMOS or ECOCERT certification. You will find this information in the supplier’s specification – for products in the Handymade.sk range, certification is stated directly in the description.
Yes, but with caution. Ascorbic acid requires a low pH (3–4), which may not be compatible with all ferments. Retinol is sensitive to light and oxidation. In practice, more stable derivatives are recommended – ascorbyl glucoside or retinyl palmitate – or physically separate products (morning vs. evening application).
With an appropriate preservative system and storage in a cool, dark place, usually 6–12 months from the date of manufacture. Check stability with a challenge test and by monitoring changes in colour, odour and viscosity. The period after opening (PAO) is typically 6 months.
At standard concentrations, fermented raw materials are among the well‑tolerated components. For sensitive or atopic skin, always recommend a patch test to the customer – especially if the product contains several actives at once or stronger fragrances.
Fermentation in cosmetics combines the natural origin of raw materials with modern biotechnology. It helps improve the availability of certain active substances, change the profile of botanical extracts and create gentle, functional and well‑usable cosmetic components.
Fermented extracts are not a miracle or a universal answer to everything. They are, however, a very interesting tool for formulators who want to create more modern, more thought‑through and more effective cosmetics.
When creating a hydrating serum, facial toner, essence, cream for sensitive skin or hair care, fermented raw materials can be exactly the detail that gives the formula higher value.
